Future pruning willrenew fruiting canes and maintainthe vine framework and crop load.
pruning after fourth year will be for renewing fruiting vines and maintaining vine shape
Future pruning willrenew fruiting canes and maintainthe vine framework and crop load.
pruning after fourth year will be for renewing fruiting vines and maintaining vine shape
head thetrunk
HEAD is cutting somewhere along the branch. Topping or trimming is cutting all the way to the joint.
If the shoot reaches the wireearly in the season, you may try toform the cordons in the first year.To do so, top the shoot to about4 inches below the training wire toencourage lateral branch forma-tion. This forms a nice “Y” for thecordons. Select two shoots,growing in opposite directions,and train them along the centerwire to form the two main arms,called cordons (Figure 3-E)
After plant grows to wire height, trim back and begin traning two new shoot.s to form a Y. This is called cordons
Remove all basal lateral shootsthat break along the trunk. If themain shoot loses vigor and beginsto twist slightly, top the shoot andtrain up the strong new “leader”
When the selected vine for training is no longer vigorously growing straight, select a new vine to train.
Prune dormant kiwivines in lateDecember to mid-February in thePacific Northwest. Later pruningmay cause excessive sap flow.
WE are pruning in December, which is ideal for kiwivines. Any later and too much sap would flow.
Kiwifruitvines tend to take up a consider-able amount of phosphorus (P)and potassium (K).
Kiwis take more P and K
generally green in color
green =/= unripe, apparently very yummy