The growing of the arugula is indeed organic, but almost everything else is late-capitalist business as usual.
This line goes to answer Shapin's question he posed a couple of paragraphs back ( why it matters). Questioning why this is important. It's very interesting because he shines light on the idea that something being organic, should be in line with moral and ethical standards. This is what Shapin is showing here. There is no ethical standard, only the food is organic - and that's pretty much it.