“I’m leaving and I’m never coming back,” I say while putting on my coat. I use my mother’saggrieved, underappreciated tone. The little brown dog transfers her gaze from me to the table, thelast place she remembers seeing toast. The Labrador, who understands English, begins howlingmiserably. She wins the toast sweepstakes and is chewing loudly when I leave, the little dog barkingferociously at her.