- Mar 2021
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www.nytimes.com www.nytimes.com
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One way the restaurant achieves this is by refusing to do delivery. You can order breakfast and lunch at the window; dinner has to be arranged in advance, by email. Either way, your first encounter is with one of Winner’s employees or Mr. Eddy himself, not a third-party app. Apps may be convenient, but I’ve never used an app that remembered that a member of my household has a life-threatening food allergy, as a Winner employee did the second time I placed a dinner order. Nor have I had one offer to set aside a few loaves of bread, which typically sell out by late afternoon.
There is a key distinction between the rise of many Apps to order food through and Winner's restaurant. Pete points out the personal aspect this restaurant is embracing and how it is doing wonders for them. These experiences add emotion, pathos, to the article and allow the reader to feel heart warmed or interested in visiting this restaurant themselves to experience the same comfort Pete does when going these himself.
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Winner, in Park Slope, is too far from my own Brooklyn neighborhood for me to walk round-trip on an empty stomach. But in almost every other way, it is my ideal pandemic restaurant and its rotisserie chicken, brushed with smoked honey and rounded out with a pound or so of roasted potatoes, some braised kale and a noticeably fresh sourdough baguette, is my ideal pandemic meal.
This imagery involved with Winner allows Pete to get across the same delightful feeling he is embraced with as he enjoys his ideal pandemic meal. The repetition of the phrase ideal pandemic allows him to hone into a lot of newfound relationships many people who are affected by the pandemic carry, appealing more widely to those affected by COVID. Both of these strategies spread importance and experiences which is Pete's goal.
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But a city’s most famous restaurants aren’t always its most important, just as the giant panda isn’t necessarily the species most crucial to the health of its habitat. If this distinction wasn’t already obvious, it has been made clear over the past year. Some of New York’s most avidly followed kitchens have been dark for most or all of the pandemic, including the Grill, Atomix, Per Se, Balthazar and Le Coucou.
To give equal credit to the less "important restaurants" as the one he may be writing this article about, he refers back to more animals, such as a giant panda, which is not important to the ecosystem but is well-known. He gives examples of how famous restaurants have been idle as well, granting a light to the lesser known restaurants which are still important to the New York ecosystem. This metaphor sets up the article in a perspective that is easily understood by readers.
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A pride of lions on a fund-raising pitch can be relied on to bring in money that can be used to save the ground squirrel and the lilac-breasted rollers.Back when the restaurant ecosystem was functioning healthily, it had its charismatic megafauna, too.
The similarities Pete points out between a wildlife ecosystem and a New York restaurant ecosystem serve to emphasize his point of how one major effect, COVID, can shut down multiple facets of the ecosystem. He does so by focusing on one word, megafauna, as he described the previous state of New York restaurants as having "charismatic megafauna".
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- Feb 2021
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www.nytimes.com www.nytimes.com
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I wanted to keep reviewing restaurants, but I didn’t want to go back into their dining rooms both because of the risk and because I was afraid readers would take it as an all-clear signal. When the governor halted indoor dining again in December, my selfish reaction was relief. Then I briefly got depressed. How would restaurants survive? And how would I keep writing about them?One answer had already started to appear on sidewalks and streets in the form of small greenhouses, huts, tents and yurts. Inside these personal dining rooms, you can (and should) sit just with people from your own household. If the restaurant thoroughly airs the space out between seatings, any germs you breathe in should be the same ones that are bouncing around your home. Many restaurants instruct their servers to stay outside the structures as much as possible, though some don’t.
Syntax of question and answer reveals itself again. His doubts and negativity are addressed within the first highlighted paragraph with a question coming to Pete's mind. He realized his influence as a critic and decided to take the right step to prevent anything bad from occurring. Despite his sacrifice, the next paragraph he discusses the clever solutions restaurants had come up with which solved his problem for the most part. This description underlines yet more change that brought upon good things, which is the main idea he is relating to the food scene. He creates a comparison between an at home setting along with the solutions restaurants have come up with to further emphasize his point of safety amidst COVID.
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“Why would Pete Wells order delivery from us?” the sous-chef asked.“Maybe he’s hungry?” Mr. Tran replied.I was. But I was on the job, too, and that first order persuaded me
Q & A syntax which reveals two separate perspectives to the reader-- adds to the change factor within these times that Wells is trying to communicate. Informal tone taken on by Pete as food is more personal and opinionated. His audience are those who want to experience new, good food amidst these times. Humor and irony with the "Maybe he's hungry?" from Mr. Tran, stating the obvious with a purpose along with explaining how the chefs can't forget about the job at hand.
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It still took a few weeks before I wrote any reviews. At first, I worried that any opinion of mine would be unfair when restaurants were trying so hard to adapt to the new reality. Eventually, I understood that that was exactly what would make the reviews worth writing. Good food in a pandemic was great; great food seemed like a miracle, and I was finding great food all around.
Pathos - he sets up an emotional connection between the reader and the restaurants by conveying his pity with adequate reasoning.
Repetition - he underlines the importance of great food, being a food critic, he goes on to make a biblical reference, calling great food a miracle almost as grand as God's doing.
His satiated hunger drove him to realize how change did not deter the restaurants, yet, they made his job more worth while than it already was. Pete set up these restaurants for success with a slight undertone that relates to a superhero's story. A villain (the pandemic), the hero (great food from great restaurants), and the thankful people who were saved (him and anyone to eat the food).
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Before the pandemic, I normally called chefs after I’d written a review of their restaurant but before it was published, to check facts. The chefs usually sounded as if I were calling with the results of a lab test. One chef called me back from a hospital and told me his wife was in the next room giving birth to their first child, but — oh no, don’t worry, it’s fine, he said; in fact, I’d picked a perfect time to call! These were, in other words, awkward conversations.The ones I had last spring were different. It was as if the fear and distrust all chefs feel toward all critics were gone. They talked about going bankrupt, they talked about crying and not wanting to get out of bed. What did they have left to lose by talking to me?
Pete highlights a key change that came with COVID, except he emphasizes the good that came from it. This compare and contrast allows the reader to see how the personalities have developed along with the times. There was a silver lining amidst the "crying and not wanting to get out of bed". The drastic comparison of his importance before and after the pandemic with a chef giving equal importance to Pete and his first child underlines just how wrong priorities were previously. His diction, utilizing awkward perfectly to encapsulate the environment surrounding his job before COVID, pushing forth the idea that good can result from change.
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www.nytimes.com www.nytimes.com
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The past few years in New York City have not been kind to the pastry sciences. Instagram, with its power to anoint a new Cronut at any moment, has bewitched talented people into devoting their careers to the pursuit of edible memes. In restaurants, desserts that make expressive, creative use of the medium are becoming rare, replaced by ones that are easily made and assembled and don’t alienate anybody — sundaes with crunchy bits, and so on.
Main: Pete introduces the issue pastry science is presented with, showing what they have to deal with and overcome. The main idea Pete pushed forth is justified now as he sets up his claims which would solve these issues or justify why the pastry chefs can prosper in these times.
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Ms. Miao, 27, had left restaurants before the pandemic and was working a stall at the Bronx Night Market, trying to get a business called Chi Desserts off the ground. But she never came up with a head-swiveling product that persuaded the crowds to stop, taste and buy.Once it became clear there would be no night markets this year, she reinvented Chi as Kemi Dessert Bar, fashioning sweets in her apartment in Jamaica, Queens, and making home deliveries. The change has given her imagination room to roam.
Rhetoric: Pete repeats the syntax utilized earlier here by the counter of how Ms. Miao's initial strategy did not work, but her creativity prevailed and her new idea went off. This comparison takes the reader on a roller coaster, losing hope then gaining it right back. This contributes to the main purpose of Pete to put forth the benefits of COVID and how small business owners can benefit.
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Ms. Sanders, 30, hands out pickup orders from her apartment in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. Mr. Yang, 38, makes deliveries in Brooklyn. He said he enjoys meeting their customers, even with masks on.
Rhetoric: The repetition and sentiment behind the personalized take on this business shows the readers how valuable this profession can be emotionally as well. Their jobs and profession are getting the recognition they deserve, so they are happier with these conditions for now, pushing them to work harder and stay happier.
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“I’ve never been able to be this creative in my life,” she said. “I feel really proud of myself that I’ve stepped out of my comfort zone.”Some of the chefs say that having their work forcibly extracted from the restaurant context has helped them think more broadly about how people might eat their creations. Ms. Cho, 26, believes that her gem cakes make as much sense as a solitary breakfast as they would on a platter at the end of a dinner party, whenever that seems like a good idea again.
Main: The central idea is restated and reintegrated into the reader's minds where a success story gives hope to those who are in the same situations amidst COVID. All of these stories congregate and add up to convince these pastry chefs that there is hope and a large consumer base out there. Pete's repeated mentions of these types of stories add to his greater purpose.
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Many restaurants have decided that a full-time salary isn’t justified by what customers are willing to pay for dessert.If pastry chefs have learned anything in the pandemic, it’s that a sizable audience is out there, eager to try whatever they dream up next.
Rhetoric: These two back to back sentences serve as a cause and effect for pastry chefs and their capital value in the world through the eyes of consumers and restaurant owners. The rhetoric here serves to convince pastry chefs that have been previously disappointed with low wages that there is a "sizeable audience is out there, eager to try whatever they dream up next". This gives out more of a sense of hope towards this profession and people reading his article.
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With the normal barriers to starting a business gone and the usual pressures of the marketplace scrambled, a wonderful, desperate creativity has flourished. It may not last. But for now, these professionals working in amateur kitchens are exploring their medium to see where it can take them.
Main: Pete builds upon his main idea of these professionals having good opportunities amidst this pandemic. He explains how these experts are making the best of what they have in order to stay afloat economically and still follow their professions.
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The next day, she began composing a sour-cream batter recipe and experimenting with glazes flavored with milk tea, black sesame and other ingredients. By Feb. 1, she was taking orders on her website for boxes of six two-inch Bundts, which could be picked up at her home in Clinton Hill, Brooklyn. An initial batch of what she calls “gem cakes” sold out. So did a second batch.
Main: This specific example of a success story from a pastry chef allows Pete Wells' purpose to be emphasized by the excitement the audience would get from a story as such. It serves to brighten the day of any potential pastry chef entrepreneur or anyone affected. Pete uses multiple success story examples which build upon each other and add to his greater message to the readers.
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What emerges from these improvised kitchens is a wealth of muffins, scones and shortbreads; brownies with a swirl of tahini and blondies with a bite of candied ginger; classic tarts and tortes; Rice Krispies treats augmented with brown butter or matcha; cupcakes, croissants, rosewater-scented North African-style ghriba cookies, and breads in forms both recognizable and previously unknown.
Rhetoric: Pete goes on to describe the plethora of treats that are created from the ideas of these professionals. The syntax of these imagery-filled treats serves to tempt the readers of the goods that are created through this profession at home, further pushing forth his message that pastry chefs have an entrepreneurial chance at home with their professions.
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