Brazilian Pepper tree

a brilliant range of tamal-like parcels go by other names — pasteles, hallacas, humitas.

Last summer, as I reflected on how unconscious bias can creep into the kitchen, I realized that I should start cooking by considering what the recipe creator is offering — not by imposing myself on the recipe. By inserting my known likes and dislikes, I miss the opportunity to get to know another person, to see (and taste) her history and culture through her perspective. I want to experience a dish through the person most intimate with it.

Home cooks often tweak dishes, but hewing tightly to instructions can help us better understand others and their cuisines and cultures.

“Japanese food was created here, and only Japanese know it,” Mr. Kadowaki said in an interview. “How can a bunch of foreigners show up and tell us what is good or bad?”