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  1. Last 7 days
    1. reply to u/Ripraz at tk

      I analogize typewriters to cars: there really isn't a "beginner friendly" option, they're all just cars or typewriters. This being said, how well built and engineered they are and some of the smaller optional features or "trim lines" can differ a fair amount. With typewriters, one of the biggest trim differences is the tabulator (does it have one and how do the controls work? If you're a screen writer, you really want one, but if you're doing other general writing, you can get away without one typically.)

      With Olivetti, you're probably going to find peak typewriter manufacturing and materials from the 1930s into the early 1970s. The best stuff is likely in the 50s and 60s where their design chops are also the strongest. Their stuff in the mid-70s and after becomes more plastic and isn't as solid (eg. Lettera 35).

      https://typewriterdatabase.com/olivetti.56.typewriter-serial-number-database

      Some suggestions: <br /> Standards: Graphica, Linea 88<br /> Portables: Studio 42, 44, 45; Lettera 22, Lettera 32

      Be sure to take a peek at the individual typewriter galleries and individual machines in the database to see the shifts in design over time, if that interests you.

      This comparison/review on YouTube, of which there are surely others, is pretty solid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW6Ji275FdE

      As a beginner, you might appreciate skimming through Dr. Polt's book before or after buying a machine:<br /> Polt, Richard. 2015. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century. 1st ed. Woodstock, VT: Countryman Press.

    1. Reply to u/croceldon at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rsq69i/dust_cover_recommendations/

      I use a lot of index cards, so I often just cover the opening in the hood with one and clamp it down with the paper bale. The rest I can just dust off with a painter's "chip brush" I got at the hardware store for $1.50.

      I also use a handful of microfiber cloths I got at the dollar store for $1 each and throw them over the carriages of other machines. They also double for mopping up flop sweat during marathon 8 hour writing/typing sprees if you need them for that.

      The only way I'd come close to dropping $80 bones on a typewriter cover is if they were as finely crafted as some of the ones I've seen our collector friend Tom Hanks using: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/16/tom-hanks-ingenious-custom-typewriter-covers-mats/

    1. it is not mold; it is plasticizers coming out of the plastic. I remove it with various means: alcohol, polishing with a very fine polish, Goo Gone™, naptha, and such.

      The white gunky substances seen on the plastic keys of old, unmaintained typewriters generally isn't mold, but plasticizers coming out of the plastic. These can usually be cleaned off using simple household cleaning products or if necessary heavier cleaners (Goo Gone, alcohol, naptha, etc. - test these on hidden parts first to ensure they don't react with or destroy the plastic or remove the paint of the key letters) followed up by light waxes or polishes and buffing.

    1. reply to u/KingCollectA at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rpr1ha/got_quite_lucky_finding_a_free_olympia_sg1_had_to/

      Typically the SG1 has at least 3 serial numbers. Two matching ones on the main body (one hiding deep inside), and the third on the bottom portion of the carriage, which may or may not match the other two. (The carriages were meant to be easily swappable for machines with the same CPI/escapement sizes.) Removing the carriage will usually reveal the body serial number (typically a 7-XXXXXXXXX) format which you can compare with the grid of serial number ranges to see where yours fits in at https://typewriterdatabase.com/olympia.61.typewriter-serial-number-database.

      I just got mine and have finished most of its servicing, though one or two small adjustments remain for it to be where I want it to be. Beyond this, it's been spectacular. See also: https://boffosocko.com/tag/Olympia-sg1/

    1. so i was wondering about antinet ZK, and i want to ask. can you use it for etertainment?

      reply to u/_ItsDin_at https://reddit.com/r/Zettelkasten/comments/1rp1jny/zettelkasten_for_etertainment/

      How are you defining "use it for entertainment"? <br /> - Having a zettelkasten for tracking knowledge/information in the entertainment business? (Yes, this is possible, I use it for this regularly.)<br /> - Using it for tracking the television, movies, and other past times and hobbies? (Yes, definitely a thing. I have tranches of cards for all these things.)<br /> - Using it as a daily diversion to entertain yourself in general? (Yes, loads of us find the system interesting and entertaining on a regular basis. I suspect that if we didn't we would give it up entirely.)<br /> - Perhaps you had some other definition of entertainment, I didn't cover?

    1. u/shapeless_nodule replied to your comment in r/typewriters ok post over thanks for providing this information in such a kind and welcoming way

      You're welcome u/shapeless_nodule, even if you somehow didn't feel welcome by the quickest and most precise answer for which you could have hoped.

      Given my general experience, you were highly unlikely to get the couple hours of free labor from internet strangers you were requesting to dig you out of the hole you made. Often requests like yours go unanswered for days, weeks, months...

      I'm pleased to see exactly how far your "deeply indebted"-ness extended. About 8 minutes by my count. I'm especially glad that you left your post up in an attempt to help everyone else in the future who may search this sub for similar problems.

      If you give up on it or feel like it's quicker and easier to go the professional repair route for help, try the list at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      Good luck with all those springs. The Brother Deluxe 220 is a great little machine.

    2. [deleted]

      Original post by u/shapeless_nodule at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rp5mh6/brother_deluxe_220_jp1_typewriter_request_for/

      Hi All, In a fit overconfidence a couple of years ago, I bought a brother Deluxe 220 typewriter which worked fine other than being sticky. I duly tore it down, cleaned it up, oiled it, put it back together and... watched as nothing happened because somehow all of the springs had fallen out and were now sitting on my workbench. I then put it on a shelf and forgot about it, until starting a clearout last week. I would be deeply indebted to you if anyone who has this typewriter (or one of its sister models, as I understand it most of the JP-1 models are the same) take either some photos or a good video of exactly where all of the springs inside it connect to?

      Reply: <br /> This is fairly steep ask, particularly when, for a few dollars, you can get the location of all the springs in the repair manual:<br /> - https://www.lulu.com/shop/ted-munk/the-brother-jp-1-typewriter-repair-bible/paperback/product-186kzqem.html?q=brother&page=1&pageSize=4 - https://twdb.sellfy.store/brother-typewriters/

    1. The Secretary’s Day. 1947. Coronet Instructional Films. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOe0259_OuA (March 7, 2026).

      Typewriter desks with top flip functionality shown in operation at 00:32 and 01:45 and closing it up at 10:24.

      In addition to storing away the typewriter when not needed, these flip top desks also served as impromptu dust covers to keep dust out of them when not actively in use.

      Jean Carroll as secretary and Marge Quinn as stenographer.

      Paper sorter file in desk drawer at 00:55

      Appointments and diaries

      Definition of stenographer: responsible for dictation, transcription, typing, billing, filing, operate office machines like duplicators and calculators, occasional switchboard operation.

      Filing here shown as a simple presumably recent correspondence file that is kept on hand in the secretary's desk drawer rather than in a nearby filing cabinet or centralized office filing cabinet. 03:29

      "A good secretary doesn't rely on memory." (Instead she makes a permanent note.) timestamp 4:11

      Placing a long distance phone call [8:31]

    1. Advanced Typing - Shortcuts (1943)

      Advanced Typing: Shortcuts. 16 mm. Vol. MN-1512c. United States Navy Training Film, 1943. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0.

      Correct typing posture: fingers curved<br /> arms sloping up<br /> light fast strokes<br /> steady rhythm

      fast continuous motion of return lever<br /> using backing sheet (aka temping sheet ??)

      Shortcuts:<br /> mise en place for office supplies (she doesn't use this phrasing though) - greater efficiency - cuts down on searching

      tabulators can be helpful. There are two types:<br /> - automatic - handset

      Use tabs for paragraphs, dating letters, columns of numbers, and letter closings.

      To clear all tab stops, put carriage to left, hold tab clear key and move the carriage across. (Usually applies to Royal, Remington, Underwood, and Electromatic).

      On LC Smith and Woodstock machines sometimes have a tab clear lever on the back.

      Decimal tabulator keys help to align a variety of numbers around a decimal point. 09:43

      Always have a few tabs set to prevent a flying carriage which can be hard on the machine.

      When using carbon sheets which are slightly longer than the paper size, cut off a small triangle at the top left hand side. This makes it easier for one to separate the carbons from the copies by holding the top left with one hand and pulling the carbons out from the bottom of the stack.

      To align multiple sheets of paper for carbon copies, use a folded sheet at the top to taco the pages into the machine. Remove the folded sheet once the carbon pack is rolled forward.

      Paper bail rollers should be set to split the pages into thirds (for two rollers).

      Remington noiseless machines have a pressure indicator on the front of the machine (usually above the keyboard) which can be used when using thick carbon packs that may cause the ribbon guide to stick or bind.

      Only erase when the carriage is fully left or right to prevent eraser crumbs from falling into the machine. 15:26

      Use a soft eraser on carbon copies. Use and insert slips of paper behind the carbons and allowing them to stick out the sides, erasing from back sheet to front so as not to allow the eraser to mark your carbon copies. For the front sheet, use a shield and ink eraser and erase with a horizontal motion. After erasing, easily pull out the inserted sheets.

      When typing a correction, tap the key lightly two or three times rather than hard once.

      When in a rush and it's necessary to add a word (on double spacing), underline the last letter of the prior word and type a slash (/). Then move the typing line up and type the insertion above the prior line. This creates an "arrow" of sorts for the inserted word.

      Details for inserting extra letters in misspelled words using half-spacing machines. (Underwoods and Electromatics don't have this function.)

      Light pencil marks at the bottom of the sheet can help to indicate the coming bottom of the sheet.

      Putting up the card holders (fingers) on Underwoods and Royals. They help to hold the card and improve print quality and reduce noise.

      Card holders can cause markings on carbon packs if they're not lowered.

      Trick for quickly writing postcards in succession: Disengage the ratchet using the platen spring release (or variable platen switch) Type the address on the front of the card. When done give the platen a quick practiced spin. The postcard with "jump" up and stop at the paper table and be in position for rolling in the opposite direction to write the message on the back of the card! When done a faster spin of the platen will shoot the card over the back of the typewriter where it can land in a box to collect all the postcards which were written in such a manner. <br /> timestamp 23:22

      Time saving methods for addressing envelopes:

      • Front seat principle. Insert the envelope in the usual way and type out the address. When done, turn the envelope down through the machine with the right hand. With the left hand, place the next envelope between the top of the first envelope and the front of the platen. Feed the first envelope back through the machine (in reverse) and the second will be rolled in to place for typing. Continue in this fashion until finished. All the finished envelopes will stack up in the back at the paper table.

      • Chain feeding. The first envelope is inserted and rolled partway into the machine. A second envelope is inserted between the platen and the second envelope (behind the platen). Turn the first envelope to the writing line and type the address. Take out the first envelope and insert the next the same way as before.

      • Uses paper bail. Do the first envelope in the usual way. Spin it out of the machine up and behind the paper bail into a box behind the typewriter.

      For quickly doing labels or small cards:<br /> Create a small zig-zag fold into a piece of paper to create a pocket slot which can be scotch taped on either side. This template paper can then be inserted so that the pocket is visible above the writing line, but the paper below it is still in the platen. The label or card can be placed into the pocket and the platen reversed to feed the label or card in backwards to the desired typing line. Using a v-groove or hole in the typing line can create a pencil line to serve as a guide for inserting many labels at the same place so that the typing lines up between labels.

      Some offices had special platens for holding cards like this.

      Pockets like this can also be used to hold the page to add additional lines at the bottom of pages. Deeper pockets may need to be used for doing this with carbon packs whose carbons are longer than the pages.

      Alternately one can do something similar by creating a inverted u-shaped set of slits into an index card. to hold such labels.

      When in the midst of a page and needing to do another piece urgently, roll back the letter until about 2 inches from the top, and then place in the new page and one between each of the carbons. Then roll forward to do the short message as necessary. Turn back to the insertion position to remove the copies and then continue with the first letter where you left off.

      For drawing horizontal lines on typewriter paper, push the carriage to the extreme left and place the pencil or pen at the edge of the card guide and the scale. Then move the carriage to the right to effect the line. For vertical lines, put the carriage at the desired space and place the pencil at the card guide and scale and move the platen up/down as necessary.

  2. Mar 2026
    1. SHOP TALK!!! how to defeat a stripped screw head without losing your mind<br /> by [[Typewriter Justice]] on Youtube

      To help remove a stripped screw head, hit it with Kroil or a similar penetrant first. Then with a screwdriver, punch or similar tool, give it purchase on the right hand side somewhere and give it a nice whack with a hammer. This should turn the screw enough to move things along.

      Charlie attributes this trick to Dane Bailey (August 19, 1932 - April 21, 2019) of AAA Typewriter in Birmingham, AL.

    1. Michael ReesYou just eyeball it to make a cardboard template for the ends and measure the width. Don't try to make pockets for the platen knobs or the return lever. Just make the whole thing loose enough to cover the protrusions. I use 20 gauge sail window plastic so the cover is transparent.

      Via Michael Rees at https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163310003194678/

      and specifically recommends https://www.sailrite.com/Plastipane-20-Gauge-Vinyl-Window-Material-54

    1. "Mazak" in the UK but more widely known (at least in the US, where it was developed) and in its original form as "Zamak", this metal is notorious for disintegrating (not "exploding" as some earlier poster claimed). It is also known as "pot metal" and, unhelpfully, "white metal".

      Mazak, aka pot metal, aka Zamak, is notorious for disintegrating over time. It's what can cause tab brakes on the Olympia SM7 to freeze up.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=253&p=3

    1. Addressing a COMMON FLAW in the Olympia SM7 typewriter that will ruin your day. Drawband Tab System<br /> by [[HotRodTypewriter]] on YouTube<br /> accessed on 2026-03-03T23:41:58

      Remedies for frozen tab brake system on Olympia SM7 typewriters:<br /> Drill a hole and lubricate<br /> Remove all together<br /> Remove and attempt to adjust swollen cork and then attempt to reinstall (patience testing)

    1. via Thom Cholowski at Rebel Typewriter Workshop in Saskatoon,Saskatchewan, Canada at https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/4373364699567612/

      Rules of Good Repair Practices:<br /> The Success of the repair depends upon the Rapairman's ability in following the rules of good repair practices. These rules can be summed up as follows:

      1. Read the Service Bulletin thoroughly.
      2. Know what you are looking for. Never guess. Always investigate the source of trouble. Ask, if you do not know.
      3. Determine troubles by the process of elimination.
      4. Every part, no matter how small, has a job to perform. Do not overlook the smallest detail.
      5. Use the proper tool. Keep tools in efficient working order.
      6. Carefully handle smooth, plated or bakelite parts to prevent damaging or scratching.
      7. Make the repair like you would want it, if you were the customer.
    1. It indicates the motion or distance between upper a lower case letters on the typeface.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/olympiasg1/posts/1506621080656301/

      also:

      Greg Riutzel:<br /> That's how I see it. I measured it once. I put the ribbon in stencil, typed a lower case "h" and marked approx where the top of the type slug was on the paper. Then repeated with an upper case "H". The marks were just a tad over 7.5 mm apart checking with a rule. No precision of course but close.

      The number printed on the ring in the basket of Olympia typewriters, just above and to the left of the word "De Luxe" is the distance from the baseline of the bottom slug character to the baseline of the top slug character.

      In many instances it will be 7.6. I'm curious what other typefaces show and if this thesis holds?

    1. Nakajima All (中島オール) went bankrupt back in 2019. (Not to be confused with the Nakajima Aircraft Company.) https://www.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO41025530X00C19A2X12000/ https://newswitch.jp/p/17807 Archive of the now-defunct website:(https://web.archive.org/web/20180816074211/http://www.nakajima-all.co.jp/) Someone might've bought the equipment from the Nakajima All factory in Indonesia and is still pumping out new ones (since the electronic typewriters Swintec sells are rebadged Nakajima All ones), but I'm not completely sure.

      via u/discardedaccounted at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1meum7j/new_typewriters/

    1. On an SG1 and an SG3 here, the right margin stop locks the printing keys as expected at x characters after the bell but not the spacebar nor tab, which both ring the bell and then blow right past the margin stop. Additionally, when the End-Of-Line lock stops the printing keys, I can continue spacing past the margin and then after about three spaces on the SG1 and about eight on the SG3 the printing keys are again active.

      via M. Höhne at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=27528#p27528

    1. Although the 'Mazac' tab. brake shoe problem is common, I cannot say that I have seen this before on an SG1 margin.  Interestingly, there is a similar 'exploding Mazac' problem on the ribbon reverse arm of the Olympia Model 8 post-war.  The factory probably had no idea at the time that this 'easy to die cast' metal would do this in years to come.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32384#p32384

      re: cracking house on tab sets for SG1<br />

    2. the disintegrating tab. brake shoes !  I have seen this on SM portables too - they have the same tab. brake.  As a temporary measure, you could try filing the worst of the expansion off and re-fitting.  You can also sometimes get away with having just three brake shoes instead of four.

      via Tom Lucas (aka thetypewriterman), professional repair person at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?pid=32375#p32375

    1. [rant] As a side note, I'm wondering if this is an example of how the internet, social media, and self-publishing has contorted our designation of authoritative sources.For example, the only person I consider to be an authority on typewriters in this forum is Tom (thetypewriterman). He is the only one here (to my knowledge) who has actually been trained as a typewriter technician and has worked in the trade - long before the current crop of self-made authorities 'discovered' typewriters. Tom was actually repairing machines while some of us were still using them for school or work prior to the introduction of the personal computer.The majority of our forum members might be very experienced, some are self-learned shade tree mechanics, but to my archaic way of thinking this doesn't make someone an authority on the subject.I apologize for this obvious and distracting tangent. This is a sensitive subject for me because my own trade has been overrun by internet created, so-called experts who lack any formal training or professional experience. I throw up in mouth a little when I read, or hear the word influencer; the digital generation allows itself to be lead by those who talk the loudest, run the fanciest websites, or have the greater number of social media followers. No one seems to care if those influencers have any credentials that would validate their public opinions.These observations are not meant to slight dragon typer. I don't know who the OP's authority is, nor do I need to; however, I did cringe at the "typewriter god" description and have to wonder if this god is someone who actually worked in the typewriter industry, or is just an enthusiast like most of us here who became an influencer by way of self-promotion. [/rant]

      via Uwe at https://typewriter.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=3521

      Amen

    1. Olympia SG1 1953-72 cleaning (technical restoration)

      Partial/very modest teardown and cleaning of an Olympia SG1. Only beginner level. No flush of machine or real blow out.

      Interestingly he uses a steel brush to get rid of the brown adhesive where the felt used to be, but doesn't replace it.

      Also demonstration of cleaning corrosion off of screw heads with steel brush on a vice.

      Carriage work starts at 06:17. He opens it up and then gives up after a modest wipe down. He does show some

      Uses a toothpick to oil the joints, but only shows a modest portion of the process.

  3. Feb 2026
    1. I'm at eleven typewriters now, with ten in working order and one that is a toy. I gave two machines away for free, and I sold one to a workmate for the same amount of money that I spent on it. My intentions to acquire and keep them changed through the three years of me being into typewriters. It started with finding a broken SG1 in the trash at the side of the street that I was able to repair. Then I was looking for a use for it, because it had found a place in my heart. I found two other machines in working order, also in the trash at the side of the street, of which I am keeping one and I have one away because it wasn't my liking. I received one as a gift from my brother-in-law that was owned by his grandfather, which is a very nice machine that makes it easier to keep for sentimental reasons. Then there is another machine that once belonged to my long-gone grandfather, which I keep for sentimental reasons and its nice techno pica typeface. This list keeps going on. So, there's a mixed bouquet of reasons I make up to keep machines and why I just can't give that specific piece away. I know I'm a hoarder, but the size of the machines keeps me in certain limits. Is it consumerist? Well, yesn't. I must admit, I would love to own a chocolate script Olympia SM3, and yes, I do like to show off my four different typefaces. I am looking to find a sixties SM9 to find out what the fuss is about in comparison to my late seventies SM9. But on the other hand, nothing beats the satisfactory achievement of finishing another three pages letter for one of my daughters. I hope they will read my lines one day and hear their daddy's voice through the paper that I touched before them and the imprints that my muscles caused. It is a piece of me, turned into ink on paper, that remains. And it is some obsolete tech that I curated/used/liked/hoarded, that will probably go into steel recycling after I'm gone.

      brief typewriter bio for u/andrebartels1977 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r3udld/thoughts_on_the_hobby/?sort=new

    1. SIMPLEX MACHINE RESTORATION CHECKLISTQuick guide for inspection, cleaning, and maintenance 1. MODEL IDENTIFICATIONCheck what applies:• ☐ Baby Simplex• ☐ Simplex Toy Typewriter• ☐ Practical Simplex (100 / 160 / 240 / 400)• ☐ Simplex Model A• ☐ Simplex Model B• ☐ Simplex Model C• ☐ Simplex Model D• ☐ Simplex Model E• ☐ Simplex Model 300• ☐ Simplex Model 2 ½• ☐ Simplex Model 3 (Large Size)• ☐ Simplex No. 2• ☐ Simplex No. 3• ☐ Improved Simplex Typewriter• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 2• ☐ Practical Typewriter No. 3• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 36 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – 72 characters• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Uppercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Typewriter – Upper + Lowercase (Note Size)• ☐ Simplex Portable Typewriter• ☐ Simplex No. 8other model________________________________________ 2. INITIAL DIAGNOSISGeneral condition:• ☐ Complete• ☐ Missing parts• ☐ Visible damage• ☐ Rust• ☐ Dry wood• ☐ Dial blocked• ☐ Carriage stuck________________________________________ 3. DIAL / CHARACTER WHEEL• ☐ Turns freely• ☐ Turns with resistance• ☐ Blocked• ☐ Letters readable• ☐ Letters worn• ☐ Visible dirt• ☐ Shaft lubricated________________________________________ 4. CARRIAGE AND ROLLER• ☐ Carriage advances• ☐ Carriage does not advance• ☐ Soft roller• ☐ Hardened roller• ☐ Clean guides• ☐ Dirty guides• ☐ Functional spring• ☐ Loose spring________________________________________ 5. CLEANINGSurfaces:• ☐ Dust removed• ☐ Gentle damp cleaning• ☐ Fully driedDial:• ☐ Cleaned with cotton swab• ☐ Avoided touching letters• ☐ Shaft lubricatedCarriage:• ☐ Roller cleaned• ☐ Guides lubricatedMetal base:• ☐ Surface rust treated• ☐ Deep rust stabilizedWood base:• ☐ Hydrated• ☐ Waxed________________________________________ 6. LUBRICATION• ☐ Dial shaft• ☐ Carriage guides• ☐ Advance mechanism• ☐ No excess oil________________________________________ 7. INKING SYSTEM• ☐ Soft pads• ☐ Hardened pads• ☐ Replacement needed• ☐ Re-inking done• ☐ Proper ink (oil-based)________________________________________ 8. REPAIRS PERFORMED• ☐ Dial unblocked• ☐ Carriage adjusted• ☐ Spring tightened• ☐ Gears cleaned• ☐ Screws replaced• ☐ Base stabilized________________________________________ 9. FINAL TESTS• ☐ Dial rotates 360° without sticking• ☐ Carriage advances several lines• ☐ Clear printing• ☐ No metallic noises• ☐ No excess lubricant• ☐ Paper feeds correctly________________________________________ 10. STORAGE• ☐ Stored in breathable box or cover• ☐ Moisture-absorbing packet included• ☐ Away from direct light• ☐ In a dry, stable environment________________________________________ FINAL RESULT• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only• ☐ Full restoration• ☐ Partial restoration• ☐ Pending parts• ☐ Preventive conservation only

      https://www.facebook.com/Breogan51/posts/pfbid02KK2N5eB2iBtsJuCfkbS9buv57HYdax8fxemtHjDgLLd3vb9Pc49QocwVAw2emEaql

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rfkptq/morgan_freeman_talking_about_his_typewriter_in/

      THE MAGIC OF BELLE ISLE (Magnolia Pictures, 2012) features an Underwood standard at about the 31 minute mark.

      Morgan Freeman says: "Look at that machine. I like that you have to write a bit slower on a manual. Like the way it sounds. I like the way that the letters bite into the paper. I like that you can feel there's a genuine human being, doing the work."<br /> (doublecheck the exact quote)

    1. The Man Who Stole Infinity<br /> by [[Joseph Howlett]] in Quanta Magazine on 2026-02-25<br /> accessed on 2026-02-26T09:01:10

      Dedekind proved that the set of algebraic numbers is the same size as the set of whole numbers.

      Cantor plagiarized his proof and later went on to prove that the set of real numbers is larger than the set of whole numbers.

    1. Even with keyring pliers and the skill to use them, the blackout paper method is a lengthy one.

      Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.

    1. Mineral spirits are perfectly safe for key buttons. It's critical to make sure the solvent you're using really IS true mineral spirits, though.Other solvents, such as those billed as "laquer thinner" are NOT safe for plastics. That includes acetone, xylene, and any solvents containing them. I have heard that Selectric III keys are resistat to laquer thinner, but I still wouldn't use it even on a III. Laquer thinner may be applied VERY carefully after the full mineral-spirits bath using a syringe or small squeeze bottle for specific metal pivot points such as interposer pawls that tend to get extra-stuck from dried-out lubricants.

      via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214

    1. That's just a post-war one. Rheinmetall typewriter factory was situated in Sömmerda, Thuringia (so far from Rhein), this way it become a soviet-owned company after 1945 and before it was returned to newly created GDR. A lot of these machines were produced to be supplied to USSR as kind of reparations payments. The layout also proves this. Here's an experimental "ЭУКЕН" layout, one of transitional variants on the way to modern "ЙЦУКЕН" (since 1953). While all the pre-war typewriters were built with 1918 layout "Й1УКЕН"

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1rbydwu/soviet_era_typewriter/

    1. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10162847550852775&set=p.10162847550852775&type=3

      Olympia quality control sheets had sections for:<br /> - shift (Hh Hh Hh)<br /> - type specimen for all the characters<br /> - Black ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Red ribbon test in two lines of all characters<br /> - Stencil Test <br /> - Final Proof: "Olympia-Qualitaet findet in der ganzen Welt Anerkennung - sie verbuergt besseres Schreiben."<br /> - Line Spacing: the letter "m" at all settings<br /> - Back Spacer: "rrrrRRRR"

    1. Chuck Theile, Acme Typewriter Service and Restoration, South Lyon, MI. Machines can be dropped off at 116b N. Lafayette, South Lyon, MI. A customer writes: "They accept all makes and models for repair. The phone number there is 248-486-5205 or you can call the repairman direct (Chuck Theile) at 248-455-6778." E-mail qwertyrepair@yahoo.com. Read a story about him here and another here. "I've been repairing typers and other office equipment for nearly 4 decades. Seeing a recent resurgence in the poularity of typewriters is very gratifying. Young people in particular seem to be rediscovering these historic machines and I'm happy to be able to provide a service that's not readily available anymore.  Primarily serving the Wayne, Oakland, Washtenaw and Livingston County areas, arrangements can be made for service anywhere. I've been able to repair nearly 100% of the machines brought to me. Including many dating back to the early 1900's. Don't give up or throw it away before you let me have a go at it!"
    1. PSA. Analogy: “Hi Mr. Mechanic! Here’s my ‘72 Datsun. I’d like you to give it a tune up. Oh, by the way, I’m not a mechanic but I pulled out the steering column and took apart the starter. Here are the parts in this bag” (When a client takes apart their machine, got in way over their head and wants me to fix their mistakes. Please… I appreciate you’re experimenting, but this is a huge nightmare to me. I’ve passed on several of these machines.)

      via Todd Young https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10163194812329678/

    1. reply to u/MartyFunkhoosier at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r03411/1940s_underwood_correspondent_types_very_light/

      How good is your typing technique? https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Typically you want to strike the key as if it were a hot coal and let the initial hit's momentum force the slug against the ribbon/paper/platen. If you're "bottoming your keys out" which happens more frequently when you hunt and peck, then you'll end up with a ghosting effect. Using your paper bale properly is important for clear imprints.

      If your ribbon isn't well inked (it should color your fingers when you touch it or look "wet" if it's new) that can sometimes be an issue. Beyond that, platens tend to shrink and become hard with age. As a result the machine goes out of its original proper alignment thus making your imprints lighter. You can use a second "backing" page to help make up some of the difference, but a re-covered platen (J.J. Short Associates can help in the U.S.) and a proper ring and cylinder adjustment will likely help. And if you can't afford the recovered platen (~$120) then a ring and cylinder adjustment will help nonetheless. (Check Youtube for how you might do this yourself if a shop isn't nearby.)

    1. reply to u/Yiqu at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1r08q2i/buying_a_first_typewriter_for_writing/

      The first three articles you'll find under https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Market will give you a quick crash course about what to consider and look out for in your search.

      If you want to get to work, your best bet (and honestly the best value) is to get something from a repair shop that is serviced and ready to go. In the US this means a budget range typically from US$300-$600, or perhaps slightly more if they've recovered the platen which will improve your experience. Prices dramatically in excess of this often include a lot more custom work or less common typefaces which don't necessarily improve your performance (or are people selling typewriters who have less of an idea than you do about typewriters.)

      Many hobbyists here may say to get something cheap that "works", but the amount of time and knowledge you have to scaffold to do that is worth a lot of writing time, and often still requires a lot of cleaning, restoration, and potential tinkering which is even more onerous when you just want to get to writing.

      In case you haven't found them, some great resources on leveraging typewriters as distraction-free writing devices:

      And if you need some serious distraction free advice, since it's hiding as deep knowledge amongst a handful of serious collectors/writers, the bigger your (standard) machine, the more visual space it takes up as you're writing and subtly helps your concentration. Similarly placing it in front of a wall (and not a window) helps a lot too.

    1. I was in your shoes and I dove in head first. After reading, owning, and watching countless videos on the matter, here's what I have learned: Don't buy online Only buy what you can have your hands on before exchanging money Be picky, don't just get any machine on the belief you'll start fixing them. Do not view them as being "rescued" when you buy another broken machine. Start off with a solid machine with no issues. (I suggest an Olympia brand, sm-3 etc) Honorable mention: only acquire organically through yard sales, estate sales antique stores etc. It imbues your machine with magic 🪄

      via u/Forge_Le_Femme