https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-Ames_Gen_Cat_10-March.misc-supplies.manual
Cross reference: https://writingball.blogspot.com/2016/10/legendary.html
https://www.facebook.com/reel/1455604339371283
JHoff Art painting the plastic key caps on a typewriter keyboard and repainting them with letter-based corporate logos.
Can I Rescue This 1957 Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter and Find It a New Home?!<br /> by [[Dynamically Typed]] on YouTube
One can use a hairdryer or heat gun at a medium setting to remove the white moldy-looking (it's not mold) outgassing/plasticizers found on old plastic typewriter keys.
it is not mold; it is plasticizers coming out of the plastic. I remove it with various means: alcohol, polishing with a very fine polish, Goo Gone™, naptha, and such.
The white gunky substances seen on the plastic keys of old, unmaintained typewriters generally isn't mold, but plasticizers coming out of the plastic. These can usually be cleaned off using simple household cleaning products or if necessary heavier cleaners (Goo Gone, alcohol, naptha, etc. - test these on hidden parts first to ensure they don't react with or destroy the plastic or remove the paint of the key letters) followed up by light waxes or polishes and buffing.
Even with keyring pliers and the skill to use them, the blackout paper method is a lengthy one.
Keyring pliers are used to remove the metal rings off of both circular and tombstone glass typewriter keys so that the legends can be replaced or even covered over with black paper circles for teaching or learning typing. They take some practice and skill to use, but speed up the replacement of legends significantly.
Smith Corona Vintage Typewriter Straighten Chrome Ring Keytops Twisted Crooked Letters Repair by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
Rotate typewriter legends
On some typewriters, there is a feature called the End Of Line Lock which has this effect on the key action. Its purpose is to prevent inadvertent typing when the carriage is at the right margin. It is a bar across the width that prevents the links from going through their whole range. When that lock is stuck has the effect you are seeing at every position. Now, in this case it may not be stuck by dirt or bent parts but instead by the lack of its return spring. So, inspect the action until you understand how it works on this tw (It's triggered by a part on the carriage hitting the right margin stop, which causes that bar to move into position to block the type linkages.) and look for a place where a return spring might be missing or disconnected. Fix that. This might not be your actual problem but it is the most likely.
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1p24iee/remington_deluxe_only_works_when_vertical/
A New U: Replacing a key legend on a Royal KMM typewriter<br /> by [[Richard Polt]] on The Typewriter Revolution blog<br /> accessed on 2025-11-04T10:16:51
A good, short tutorial on how to replace the key legends of a glass key typewriter with photos and tools. Also includes a .pdf template for the legends of a Royal KMM typewriter.
the key guide<br /> by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]<br /> accessed on 2025-11-01T22:44:16
A collection of photos of keys for typewriter cases
Hunting for Typewriter Accessories - YouTube<br /> by [[Just My Typewriter]] - Sarah Everett accessed on 2025-11-01T22:07:29
Estate sales often have interesting office supplies and paper in desks.
2:45 typewriter ribbon tins; made out of tin, cardboard, paper<br /> sometimes tins come with spools or spare parts
5:35 Typewriter ribbon display kits and pieces
6:58 Typewriter case keys<br /> She's collected images of case keys to know what to buy.<br /> She's got a buying guide on her website with photos.
10:04 Typewriter key tops
13:20 typewriter brushes and cleaning products, blower brushes, typeslug cleaners,
15:25 Typing books, user manuals, Typatune,
16:29 Typewriter toys; often in the $25+ range
17:23 Typewriter advertisements<br /> Sarah often purchases these online and uses them in her videos.<br /> Underwood fingernail polish advertisements
19:15 Typewriter playing cards (advertisement)
20:13 Typewriter related postcards
20:45 Typewriter books:<br /> - references; lots online; - Anthony Casillo - Typewriters (coffee books) - Michael Adler: Antique Typewriters - Paul Robert and Peter Weil - Iron Whim by Darren Werschler-Henry - non-fiction, history, - books written by other collectors<br /> - Tom Hanks' Uncommon Type<br /> - Olivetti by Allie Millington
Crescent City Books in New Orleans - has typewriters as decoration
25:03 Typewriter community collectors/creators<br /> - Lucas Dul - The Williams Typewriter (Loose Dog Press) - Loose Dog Press series<br /> - Woz Flint - The Distraction-Free First Draft<br /> - Richard Polt - The Typewriter Revolution (after thought)
28:43: Typewriter Magazines - ETCetera - Novellum Magazine (Writing related)
Does it feel like the typebars are catching in the guide, or something binding deeper in the machine? If it's the guide (this is going to sound crazy), grasp the top of the typebar and sort of wiggle it side to side in the segment. Not overly forceful as you don't want to bend the segment slots, but just enough to allow the spring steel to realign. Test, and adjust if needed. It sounds kind of unhinged, but this is the fix for most American made machines that have bars getting stuck in the guide. I've done this with Royals, Coronas, and Underwoods in front of clients before and they look at me like I'm an idiot wizard. Ha If the top of the bar is seriously bent this won't work and you'll need a repair person to use some side alignment pliers, but if the bar is just tweaked it usually works very well with a bit of practice. My unsubstantiated belief of why this occurs is US companies using the same grade(if not the same company) of steel in their bars that tend to be a little softer than their European competitors. *You DON'T want to try this with an Olympia or other German made machines. 😅 If it's coming from deeper in the machine, check the linkages to make sure they're not tweaked and binding against each other. Hope this helps!
advice via Nashville Typewriter, a repair person. <br /> https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o4qxvn/chasing_problems_stuck_keys/
reply to u/MirageAnne at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgmwkq/remington_rand_17/
There are two general types of "sticky keys": 1. sticky going up 2. sticky coming down
For stickiness slowing down the typebar (on the way up or down), it's likely that you've got oil, dirt, dust, or other sludge in the segment of your machine. You'll want to flush out your segment with some solvent and potentially blow things out with compressed air to remove the source of the friction.
While you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!
It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.
When you're done, it's common wisdom that one should NOT oil the segment.
If your typebar(s) are sticking due to friction at the typing point, then they need some gentle forming to the right or the left to prevent them from rubbing on the typing point so that they can fall back down to the type rest. The two videos below will help describe and demonstrate the symptoms as well as the repair. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrlt6VyC8D0&t=485s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arspyq1w4Iw
It's much less common, but once everything is clean and properly aligned, if you're still seeing sluggishness, it may be the case that the spring on the individual key has broken or become disconnected which prevents it from returning back to the type rest.
https://youtu.be/qrlt6VyC8D0?si=yHjByRVLa2BMYt-4&t=485
Description of typebars sticking at the typing point and needing forming to repair them.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1713118022537412/posts/2146096495906227/
Diagrams and photos of how several latches and locks are put together on typewriter cases.
follow up reply:
After some additional research on the typewriter database, the YY = 92 (where the serial number is of the form: FP[P,E,S]-XX-YY-#######, where XX is the platen length and YY is for other special features) indicates that the machine has 46 character keys (and thus 46*2=96 glyphs on the slugs). There are also examples of YY=88 with 44 keys versus the standard 42 or 43 keys.
This means that your machine has a few extra keys not found on their standard keyboards at the time.
After some continued research on the TWdB, I've come to realize that the "88" in the serial number has likely nothing to do with the palm tabulator.
The 88 is for an extra character count due to more keys (44) versus the more standard 42 or 43 keys and similarly some examples with a 92 in the serial number corresponds to 46 characters. So there isn't a designator in the serial number for a palm tabulator.
See: <br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.22586.typewriter<br /> - https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/<br /> - https://amsterdamassassin.wordpress.com/2018/12/16/typecast-my-royal-fp-steampunk/
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kbp3bb/corona_3_with_case_key/

Corona 3 cases had very straightforward keys with a simple 1-2mm numb at the far end.
The company used to offer an optional dummy key that attached to the right side of the frame to rest your right pinky. They are hard to find nowdays. You could carve a small wood block to slip over the frame where it can provide a comfortable rest.
quote via the reliable u/ahelper
https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jvgm5z/feed_pawl_not_engaging_ratchet/
KoponewtPelicram ❤️ Slug Goblin 3 points4 points5 points 3 hours ago (3 children)Do you know what's the serial number on that? Some manufacturers had special models mostly for export purposes with extra keys. For example Royal 11 is a 10 with extra keys, Underwood No. 46 is a 5/3/6 with extra keys. Remington No. 9 is an 8 with extra keys.
via https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jgg4kh/royal_kmm_extra_column_of_keys/miyumvn/
Amsterdam Typewriter began selling these around 2024-09-24: https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3869850413252379/
One set consists of 45 normal keys (12.2mm) + 4 shift keys (16.2mm)
Kro also works with the Glass Keys Collective, a self-described “lackadaisical consortium of typewriter poets” that works together as a “loose conglomerate.”
Yanni Giftakis recommends melting crayons into the letter groves of typewriter keytops to replace their missing paint with a heat gun, much the same way D&D players will fill in the groves on their dice.
This is similar to Richard Polt's recommendation "To restore faded paint on keys and scales, try Lacquer-Stik Fill-In Paint."
via https://www.facebook.com/groups/typewritermaintenance/posts/3831371387100282/
On many of the older 40s/50s typewriters, the same key will work on almost everything. If you search online there are a few people who have posted a 3D printable key that you can download and may be able to print at your local library. I'm guessing based on the limited photo, yours is an early 40s Smith-Corona.
I've tried a few local locksmiths who don't seem to carry these keys anymore.
I've got a late 40s Smith-Corona latch that occasionally self-locks and for ages I used a bent paperclip in the rough shape of the old keys to easily pick the lock with just 10 seconds of jiggling around inside. Roughly a 2 mm straight section of paperclip with a 1mm "T" section that sticks out (even just on one side) about 4-5mm and then continues straight ought to work if you're in a jam.
The level of security these keys/locks provide is minimal at best.
If you go the online route to buy a key, they can be quite expensive, so if you're a collector, just wait for a machine that comes with one and you'll have another typewriter for "free" in the deal.
reply to u/Succu6us66 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1eqk6rd/typewriter_lock/
Ukrainian has І, Ї, Є, Ґ, Russian has Ы, Ё, Ъ, Э instead.
Distinguishing Ukranian vs. Russian typewriter keyboards
via u/lexkiri at https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1eloo76/russian_american/
Two "5" keys (?!?) (SC Poweriter)
reply to u/Deep-Seaworthiness48 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e5gh4p/two_5_keys_sc_poweriter/

Things like that happened on alternate language/region typewriters. I've got a Dutch keyboard layout that repeats a % symbol twice.
It's likely that the pound symbol was needed/required so they pulled one from a pre-existing typeslug and key cap on a keyboard where the £/5 key was common and replaced the 1/! which in the era was widely known could be done by alternate means (aka lower case 'l' and '.' backspace '''.
The value of the £ was more important to the typist and because of typeface manufacture was probably easier to do in the £/5 existing combination from something like the English No. 1028, International No. 1060 keyboard, the Brazilian No. 1065, or the Danish No. 1047 all of which paired the £/5. See also: https://munk.org/typecast/2023/02/03/1954-smith-corona-scm-typewriter-type-styles-and-keyboards-catalog/
Off hand, I don't see another S-C keyboard combination from that time period that had a £ paired with any other glyph/character. In the "change-a-type" time period they likely wouldn't have done a custom black key for the £/5 when they were already manufacturing one in a matching white. If they didn't also swap out the key at the far right end of that bank, I would expect it to be a standard black '+/=' key cap and slug.
Type Shop, Ep. 15: The Ultimate Keyring Toolset Guide by [[Typewriter Chicago]]
Charles Gu's new keyring pliers for about $500 for a set are as good as if not better than vintage tools. In particular the new rubber pieces seem to help protect from breaking the original glass key tops which will then require replacement.
Tips for Removing and Installing Olympia SM3/SM4 spring loaded typewriter keys by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]
Also are the key caps supposed to be that yellow or is that from cigarettes.
For yellowed glass keys on typewriters, there's usually a key top covered by a piece of paper with the key glyph on it which is sandwiched in with a small piece of glass and a metal ring that holds it down with several metal tabs underneath the key to hold it all in place. There are custom keyring pliers for quickly removing and replacing the papers which needs care not to crack the glass. Otherwise you can manually bend the metal tabs on all your key rings to remove them and replace the papers. (This is generally a LOT of work either way.) See: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1csni4d/neat_find_on_clients_kmg/
I prefer the yellowed patina of the older key papers, so I tend to leave them versus spending the time and effort to replace them.
Speaking of the keys, they had crap all around them. I used a slightly damp towel and Turtle wax rubbing compound. A light rubbing removed the dirt.
Wiping dirty plastic typewriter keys with a soft cloth and then waxing/buffing them can bring them back to life.
Royal Quiet De Luxe Typewriter Sticky Keys Segment Flush Clean by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]