185 Matching Annotations
  1. Sep 2024
    1. I twist together two lengths of kevlar fishing line that's 0.4mm diameter and rated for 29kg, so combined roughly 0.8mm diameter and ~58kg pull. This is about the sweet spot imo in terms of thickness, slim enough to fit in small routing holes on mainspring housings and thick enough to get a good sized knot when you tie it. It's also pretty close to the thickness of old sinew drawbands I've replaced. The rated strength is definitely overkill but better over than under. In practise a drawband shouldn't experience more than 750g-1,5kg of pull under normal use.

      u/Koponewt aka Pelicram's advice for using fishing line to replace drawbands.

    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.

    1. Joe Van Cleave hypothesizes that the slightly blurry and/or ghosting letters on typewriters may be the result of the typebar just hitting the typing guide and moving slightly as they do thereby creating issues with the type clarity.

      https://youtu.be/GpLpTkhSGWc?si=MFmshF-LPPa1CyUP&t=1190

  2. Aug 2024
    1. I’ve currently only fixed the platen and reconnected the space bar. Issue I’m having is the letters are really faint and cut off almost half way through.

      Often after you resurface a platen, it slightly changes the configuration of the platen with respect to the typeface. As a result one usually may need to do three adjustments in a specific order to get things to align properly again. These can definitely be done at home with some patience.

      Usually the order for tweaking is: * Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good). Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. * On Feet adjustment (vertical adjustment so that letters are bright and clear and neither top or bottom of characters are too light/faint) * Motion adjustment (the lower and upper case letters are at the same level with respect to each other) You can search YouTube videos for your model (or related models) and these words which may uncover someone doing a similar repair, so you have a better idea of what you're doing and where to make the adjustments.

      Here's Joe Van Cleave describing some of it in one of his early videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0AozF2Jfo0 The general principles for most typewriters are roughly the same with slight variations depending on whether your machine is a segment shift or a carriage shift. You should roughly be able to puzzle out which screws to adjust on your particular model to get the general outcome you want.

      Related blogposts: * https://munk.org/typecast/2022/01/23/adjusting-ring-cylinder-on-a-brother-jp-1/<br /> * https://munk.org/typecast/2013/07/30/typewriter-repair-101-adjusting-vertical-typeface-alignment-segmentbasket-shift-typewriters/

      You might find a related repair manual for your machine with more detail and diagrams for these adjustments via the Typewriter Database or on Richard Polt's typewriter site.

      For those not mechanically inclined you may be better off taking it onto a repair shop for a quick adjustment. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html 

      Reply to u/Acethease at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1d76ygx/got_a_as_a_gift_corona_3_recentlyish_and_i_need/

    1. Colloquial repair solutions for hard platens: <br /> - use backing sheet(s) - light sanding and cleaning with organic solvents - Brake Fluid soaking for an hour followed by drying time (see also: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html) - Rubber Renue https://mgchemicals.com/products/electronics-maintenance/specialized-cleaners/rubber-renue/ - Methyl salicylate and alcohol mixture - Sanding and/or lathing and resurfacing with heat shrink tubing and/or by bicycle inner tube

      Actual repair/restoration/recovery:<br /> - J. J. Short Associates, Inc. https://www.jjshort.com/typewriter-platen-repair.php

      see colloquial advice at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ewb36f/rubber_renue_to_soften_platens/

    2. This has been an ongoing "philosophers stone" in the repair community for a long time. Hard platens are the result of the rubber losing its moisture, there's virtually no way to fix that long term. Brake fluid, rubber renew, even the wintergreen oil trick only temporarily soften platens/feeds. They will absolutely go back to their former state after a time. (1-2 months) You can sand the exterior and clean with organic solvents to restore grip and improve the original platen, but recovery is really the only long term fix. *There's a ton of back and forth about the sanding method, particularly from the old timers being salty about it. But I have seen HUNDREDS of old platens in machines that have absolutely been sanded by repair folks back in the day, so there's definitely value in the process.
    1. The case FOR WD-40 use in typewriters by [[Thom Cholowski]] in Antique Typewriter Maintenance Group

      Some thorough colloquial and unreferenced, but reasonably scientific advice about the use of WD-40 to clean typewriters, particularly with respect to water displacement.

      Once used for cleaning typewriter internals, WD-40 needs to be flushed out with kerosene or naphtha.

    1. Virtual Hermans - Lucas Dul

      Lucas Dul does an overview of affordable and available tools for typewriter repair as well as more advanced

      Basic Tools

      • screwdriver sets
        • Carpenter screwdrivers (come to a point) the point can slip and causecam out screws
        • Hollow ground - provide the most amount of torque and prevent cam-out problems (also called gunsmith He uses the 0623 Chapman set (the number is the date of international typewriter day) The large tip can be problematic
        • long reach screwdriver
        • magnetic screwdriver
        • tempered stainless steel ruler (as a screwdriver, especially
        • microdrivers (usually used for eyeglasses or electronics)
      • spring hooks (push/pull)
        • Fixture from an embroidery set with length for getting length
        • grab hooks
      • pliers
        • standard needle nose pliers
        • 45-90 degree pliers (he uses more often)
        • wire cutters (for modifying springs in machines and modifying links in machines)
        • parallel draw pieces (with heavy duty cutters)
      • Mechanics' wrench set
        • prefer cast ones
        • socket screwdrivers (fixed hex screwdriver) expecially for shift adjustment on the Royal Ps
        • Chapman's has a mini rachet 1/4" socket in it's 0623 set
      • Forceps especially a long pair for IBM Selectrics (via Duane Jensen)
      • Tweezers
      • Blowtorches
        • alcohol torches (for heating and bending metal)
        • soldering, brazing, and heat shrinking
        • small butane torch (cigarette lighter use)
      • Oilers with needlepoint applicator (he uses sewing machine oil)
        • One can use the surface tension of the oil to place a dot on the tip of a scewdriver (flat head) and then place the dot within a machine with reasonable precision
      • MIG Pliers - have cutouts for taking rubber off of old feedrollers (otherwise these pliers are used for welding); he describes it as the nutcracker of the typewriter world
      • strap wrench (especially for removing platen knobs to prevent damage)
      • knife (butter knife)
        • razor blade for trimming rubber (otherwise too thin for other applications)
      • flashlight (simple is fine)
      • marker (Sharpie)
        • marking orientation of removed parts (washes off with alcohol)
      • hammer
      • retainer clip pliers (especially for IBMs, Brothers, Swintecs) with spare e- and c-clips (some have thumbscrews for minimizing damage to clips) openers are more useful than "closers"
      • Bristol wrenches - looks like Allen Keys, but with star cross section for bristol locks in IBM machines
      • Hand crank (for IBM Selectrics) thread into the operational cam shaft

      Intermediate Tools

      • segment bearing rod (good for removing individual typebars)
      • drinking straw for ball bearings on royal portables and S-C portables and flat tops staggered 1/2" ball bearings with orbital gear (star-shaped) - snip opposite sides to insert orbital ring and ball bearing for holding and placement in typewriter
      • carpenter's pencil for marking

      Advanced/Specialty tools

      • t-bender for forming metal (exp. thin pieces)
      • 9 jaw pliers for bending typebars
      • peening pliers (for manipulating and stretching materials)
      • wheel benders (he doesn't use often)
      • eyelete tool for putting eyelets in typewritter ribbon
      • files (small/cheap) widen gaps inside of type guides when necessary or thinning out tight pieces

      Very specialized

      • Type slug solder jig or solder guide
      • keyring pliers ($400 and above to purchase)
      • multimeter for checking circuit components on electric models. Primarily using Ohm setting to see if current is passing through parts, otherwise they're broken.

      Honorable mentions

      • center punch for drilling points and new screws
      • dental mirror for looking into machines
      • spring gauge to set 2lbs for desktop and 1lb for portables

      Q&A

      air compressors are useful for cleaning

      Don't damage screws on older machines.

      US used imperial screws until 1940/50s and machines after are all metric.

      3 dessert island tools<br /> - screwdrivers, pliers, spring hook

    1. Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

      This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

    1. Common Typewriter Problems and Fixes

      A short pictorial primer for quick repairs of many common typewriter problems including:<br /> - stripping a typewriter<br /> - cleaning and oiling - carriage not moving<br /> - ribbon reverse not working<br /> - bell not working - characters out of alignment<br /> - inconsistent margin<br /> - space bar jumping/inconsistent

  3. Jul 2024
    1. Royal Quiet De Luxe Magic Margin Stuck Won't Slide Clean Flush Restore Operation of Typewriter by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      50+ year old oil can cause parts of a typewriter to seize and not work properly. Hitting it with some heavy degreaser (lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc.) and some compressed air as well as getting the parts moving will help clean these parts out.

    2. Excess oil on a typewriter can be cleaned up with both air and a clean rag.

    3. Fun tip:

      Spraying down a typewriter body and painted portions with oil before treating with lacquer thinner will help to prevent the etching of painted portions which might be splashed during the cleaning process.

      It may help to spread the oil out with a cloth or by hand, particularly on the rulers.

    1. Royal KMM FPE HH KH 10 T1 B64 Typewriter Ribbon Install Rewind Respool Replace by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The spools for the standard Royal typewriters (KMM, FPE, HH, KH, etc) have a custom metal mechanism for their auto-reverse. The spools are known as the T1 (which is the same as General Ribbon part # T1-77B , T1-77BR, and Nu-Kote B64.) If winding on universal ribbon onto them, remove the eyelette which isn't needed and may interfere with the auto reverse.

      The function of the mechanism is fairly similar to that of the Remington, but the mechanism is on the spool itself rather than on the spindle.

      If necessary, Ribbons Unlimited carries these metal spools: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/6N064-Royal-Standard-Electric-Ribbon-64-p/6n064.htm

    1. Based on the labels on typewriter ribbon donated by Octavia Butler, she got her ribbon from Office Machines Incorporated which had locations at 543 S. Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA and 433 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, CA.

      via https://anacostia.si.edu/collection/object/acm_2004.0007.0002

    1. ribbon carrier (vibrator) not moving

      reply to u/67comet at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e4hu0s/smith_corona_electra_120_ribbon_carrier_not_moving/

      That piece is called a ribbon vibrator which moves the ribbon up and down. They generally operate on gravity and as a result they need to be clean and free from oil, gunk, hair, dust, etc. Usually they slide up and down freely. There's a colloquial saying in the typewriter space that "A typewriter isn't really broken unless it's clean and broken."

      Occasionally ribbon vibrators can become bent which makes them inoperable and this can be remedied with some light forming (bending) with an appropriate screwdriver or needle nosed plier. You can search YouTube and you'll find a variety of videos for cleaning and forming these back into shape so that they slide cleanly.

      As for your missing 1/! slug, it's unlikely that you'll find someone selling just the slug itself and then you'll need to solder it on perfectly and/or adjust it slightly with appropriate tools to get the right alignment. Far better is to check around with repair shops that might have the same or similar machines which they're parting out and then you could request one. Your best bet is to purchase the entire typebar and slug assembly from a donor machine which you can then swap out into your machine and skip the soldering. For this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFMu6dUROGA can give you tips.

      To find donor machines, try repair shops on this list: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

    1. Part 4: COMPLETE Olympia SM3 Service and Repair Series: STICKY RIBBON LIFTER by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      The universal bar lifts the ribbon vibrator.

      Adjustment points to adjust the ribbon lift heights for issues with red/black on bichrome use.

      Maximum travel of the universal bar adjustment screws on crossbar that attaches to springs. timestamp 5:29

      Screws at the ends of the cross bar which are attached to the key springs can be adjusted slightly to provide for heavier or lighter touch control. Timestamp 6:07

    1. What are the must have tools for a maintenance of a typewriter, some tools you recommend, some that make maintenance a little bit easier

      reply to u/riatai69 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1e3c0zy/tools_for_a_deep_maintenance/

      You can do a tremendous amount with just a few things:

      • thin Philips screwdriver with a small magnet to hold/catch screws
      • small adjustable wrench
      • bottle of Simple Green (or other mild cleaner)
      • can of mineral spirits (naphtha, paint thinner, varnish remover, PB B'laster etc.) with a standard/cheap restaurant refillable ketchup/mustard squeeze bottle
      • Toothbrush (and/or brass bristle brush)
      • canned air
      • a piece of string (useful for reattaching some pieces without more specialized tools, and particularly for reattaching springs)
      • light machine oil (gun or sewing machine) for very lightly oiling your carriage rails
      • YouTube for watching lots of typewriter repair videos

      If you want to go higher end and do a lot more

      • a set of spring hooks with push/pull ends
      • full set of small wrenches
      • more custom screw drivers
      • a nice thick felt pad (approx 15" x 15" x 1/2"+ for having a place to sit your typewriter on without scratching it up)
      • a small lazy susan big enough to set your typewriter on to more easily manipulate it
      • air compressor (to replace your canned air)
      • bins and trays for storing typewriter parts and screws while you're taking them apart and putting back together
      • a set up for spraying down/washing out typewriters (DIY ideas include paint roller trays or plastic milk crates as a base and plastic bins for catching the run off)
      • wiping cloths or similar cloth rags for wiping things down

      If you want to go crazy

      • Keyring pliers
      • set up for respooling ribbon from 330+ yard spools
      • The Manual Typewriter Repair Bible https://typewriterrepairbible.com/ as well as various other repair manuals and all the tools listed within them.
      • storage shelving for 100+ typewriters
      • a small collection of machines for parting out
      • an 800+ square foot workshop space
      • a publisher for you book about typewriters

      When you're really ready for full-on insanity

    1. Adjustment screw for the Olympia SM3 on feet shift set up is just to the side of the ribbon spool/cup. Gerren indicates that he's never been able to do this adjustment properly with the typewriter body on, so it's much easier to do with it off.

      The bottom adjustment point (through the side of the frame) allows one to set the base line for the on foot for the lower case letters while the top one sets the upper case.


      Gerren credits Phoenix Typewriter for most of the material he's learned in terms of fixing typewriters.

      Bill at Philly Typewriter has an apprentice program, but there aren't many shops that do this. (Gerren makes a joke that it's free (child) labor.)


      Trip point adjustments

      The trip point is the point at which the typebar trips the movement of the escapement.

      The adjustment point for it is reachable by removing the small protecting plate on the bottom at the back of the machine. The escapement trigger is just underneath it.

      The lower one (top if the machine is upside down) is for the lower case; the top one is for the upper case.

      Screwing the screw in will cause the trip to occur sooner.


      Spacebar adjustment mechanisms [13:00]

      There are two, one set in the front of the bottom of the typewriter and two screws in the back, right near the escapement.

      If the spacebar is hit too many times while cleaning and repairing, the spacebar won't work properly and will need some minor adjustment when the body is put back on.


      He shows at the end how to remove the keytops of the individual keys.


      The final check is the shift lock mechanism to make sure its aligned properly.

    1. Olympia SM3 (1/2/4/5/7) Silent Return Spring Fix Part 5: Complete Olympia Service and Repair Series by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Removal of SM3 carriage with one screw and bolt.

      Repairing silent return spring (also works for Hermes and other European models) which operates via friction. American models don't have this sort of mechanism, so one will always get the zipper sound moving the carriage back.

    1. The Amazing Floating Olympia by [[Michael P. Clemens]] aka clickthing

      Michael recommends using 1/4" flat bibb washers with 9/16" OD to replace the rubber washers on the Olympia SM3, which notoriously are squished and need replacement. The general symptom is that the carriage sits low on the machine and scrapes or hangs on the sides of the body beneath it.

  4. Jun 2024
    1. Joe Van Cleave makes the interesting observation that while a hobbyist will only take a typewriter apart as much as is necessary to fix the issue at hand, the professional repair person will strip it all down and clean everything out for the coming 50 years to prevent it from coming back to them for something else in the near future thus costing more time, effort, and potential damage to their reputation.

    2. Typewriter Line Lock Repair by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

    1. Five Fairly Fun Fixes For Free by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Advice for typewriter ribbon printing, especially as silk ribbons age and more quickly gunk up the loops or letters like "e" or "a". Nylon ribbon and a thin plastic backing sheet can be helpfu.

      Use of bookbinder's glue on fabric of typewriter cases, then layers of shoe polish.

      General advice for replacing feet on typewriter cases.

      Small incremental improvements to your typewriter can be easier and more sustainable than trying to do everything at once.

    1. I dont know if im hitting too hard or not. ( second image is the backup paper behind the actual one)

      If you've got heavy impressions going to the level of the backing sheet or things like your period cutting holes directly through your paper, then it's not really so much an issue of typing too hard, but your carriage is slightly out of alignment with respect to your type bars.

      Your typeface shouldn't actually hit the platen when pressed (or held forward), but should just kiss the ribbon which then places the imprint onto the paper. Holding your typeslug forward against the type guide you should have just enough space to slip a piece of paper between your slug and the platen. If there isn't a tiny bit of space, your typeface will chew up your ribbon and paper over time. The typing thunk sound that typewriters make isn't the slug hitting the platen (aka cylinder), but the typebar hitting the anvil (aka ring).

      The proper adjustment for fixing this is thus commonly called a ring and cylinder adjustment and how it's effected depends on whether you have a segment shift or a carriage shift machine. On many machines it requires adjusting two screws on either side of the machine. It changes the distance of platen from typeface and can prevent your making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good. Sometimes using a simple backing sheet can remedy a bit of this distance problem, especially on platens which have hardened or shrunk slightly over time. Searching YouTube for your make/model (or similar models) will usually show you the adjustment you'll need to make to remedy these problems.

      See also: https://hypothes.is/a/AegRziHnEe-Ud_stVcPQLA

      Reply to u/Bitter_Rent_141 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dnnh2n/is_this_normal/

    1. Test typing and adjustments

      • Ring and Cylinder adjustment (distance of platen from typeface; the type shouldn't touch the platen or you'll find you're imprinting on your paper, making holes in the paper and/or ribbon, which isn't good) [Interestingly Dul doesn't mention this particular adjustment]
      • evenness of the letters (on feet)
      • alignment between capital and lower case (motion)
      • margin consistency
      • line scale height
      • adjust escapement "so that it's moving the proper distance both up and down to prevent skipping or missing spaces"
      • adjust the height of the ribbon, this is done to make sure the entire letter is printed (and presumably so the bichrome is properly usable when available)
    2. How A Rusty 1930s Royal Typewriter Is Professionally Restored | Refurbished | Insider

      Done by Lucas Dul. Some particularly interesting portions on adjustments after restoration. He generally touches on the order of adjustments he makes, but in brief rather than completely.