The result is quite shiny. There is no visible yellow grain. The slightly silvery spots that I damaged are almost not visible anymore, thanks to the added yellow color of the shellac. There are a couple dust spots visible, if you look: perfection is not of this world. But the good thing about shellac is that you could sand the top again a little, and apply more shellac - or just do that without sanding. The alcohol dissolves the shellac, so you can always add new coats.

the front panel’s paint and decal were very matte, and had signs of yellowing outside the decal. Everyone who has dealt with a Royal 5 (in particular) might know a case of this illness: the paint appears dirty and uneven with some yellow, grainy stuff around the decals. You cannot clean over decals too much: the golden color will go away to reveal silver, and eventually you will destroy the decals completely.But I had heard that that yellow stuff, on some machines at least, was shellac: that the decals were originally applied and then shellacked. For some reason, on the Royal 5 in particular, the shellac had a tendency over time to dry and become apparent and grainy.

Sewing machines and typewriters from this era use shellac, which is a natural ish material. If improperly cared for in the past that’s what happens. One thing to check how the shellac is, is to shine a bright light on the black area. If it has a green tint, then shellac is there, if it’s black it is not. But that yellowing is the shellac. Normally I would gently clean with water and a soft rag. Then a light car polish and then a good wax to seal it.

It is shellac (from the bugs). Some people use denatured alcohol on a cotton ball to lightly dab it off; I use sewing machine oil on a microfiber, and that helps the yellowing, but does not get rid of the change in texture between shellac and no shellac.

Use kerosene or mineral spirits to clean the machine. I wouod go with kerosene to be honest. Then redo the shellac finish with french polishing. This is heavy documented with old sewing machines as they use these gold decals that f becomes silvered when water or cleaning solvents touch them.

Courtesy of @Pelicram ❤ : Peli's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight. This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level. The recipe: 70% Light machine oil. 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits. Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying. Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application. Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.,Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.,Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.,Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.

Shellac has reached its terminal station now that Steve Albini is dead; and it feels like much of their music – on this album especially – was ominously predictive of this calamity. Yet their work seems to be saying there is much left to do, like a call to action: make hay while the sun shines, which actually means work while the sun shines, produce good work while the sun still shines.