86 Matching Annotations
  1. Dec 2025
    1. This is a persistent myth. Tolerance has nothing to do with it -- even in high-precision machine tools machined to within a thousandth of an inch, oil is necessary to reduce sliding friction and prevent wear. (In fact, super-flat bearing surfaces will even have deliberate channels cut to allow oil to stick.) Review some old service manuals and you'll find detailed lubrication instructions. This old Remington manual, for example, has a chart at the end specifying four different types of oil for different parts of the mechanism; this Typewriter Repair Training Course describes several methods for lubricating entire machines; and this Army manual suggests basically hosing the machine down with light oil. I suspect many people get the impression that oil is bad because very old oils, before the invention of modern synthetic oils and greases, tend to gum up into a sticky paste as they oxidize and separate over time. (Some pre-WWII greases were based on animal fat, and would go rancid!) Combine that with fifty years of cat hair and dust and the machine seizes up entirely. Modern synthetic light oils and greases should last much longer.

      u/capnrefsmmat reply to

      u/lodger238 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hslx56/huh_i_thought_wd40_was_horrible_as_a_lubricant/<br /> Agree completely and to further the point; typewriters were manufactured with low tolerance in many areas just so they wouldn't need lubricating.

  2. Nov 2025
    1. Symptom: Ghosting lines overlaying typed text:

      This is assuredly not a type slug cleaning issue and the secret is that the loops in the letters like "a", "e", "o", etc. are clear. The lines are caused by the paper not being held to the platen, so when the slug hits, you're getting ink from the other part of the slug transferring to the paper. The remedy is to tuck the paper underneath the paper bale and rollers.

      If one still sees issues after this then check your manual to ensure that the ribbon is properly threaded followed by a check that the ribbon vibrator isn't bent too far away from the typing point and too close to the platen and causing the ribbon to rub against the paper.

    1. Hunting for Typewriter Accessories - YouTube<br /> by [[Just My Typewriter]] - Sarah Everett accessed on 2025-11-01T22:07:29

      Estate sales often have interesting office supplies and paper in desks.

      2:45 typewriter ribbon tins; made out of tin, cardboard, paper<br /> sometimes tins come with spools or spare parts

      5:35 Typewriter ribbon display kits and pieces

      6:58 Typewriter case keys<br /> She's collected images of case keys to know what to buy.<br /> She's got a buying guide on her website with photos.

      10:04 Typewriter key tops

      13:20 typewriter brushes and cleaning products, blower brushes, typeslug cleaners,

      15:25 Typing books, user manuals, Typatune,

      16:29 Typewriter toys; often in the $25+ range

      17:23 Typewriter advertisements<br /> Sarah often purchases these online and uses them in her videos.<br /> Underwood fingernail polish advertisements

      19:15 Typewriter playing cards (advertisement)

      20:13 Typewriter related postcards

      20:45 Typewriter books:<br /> - references; lots online; - Anthony Casillo - Typewriters (coffee books) - Michael Adler: Antique Typewriters - Paul Robert and Peter Weil - Iron Whim by Darren Werschler-Henry - non-fiction, history, - books written by other collectors<br /> - Tom Hanks' Uncommon Type<br /> - Olivetti by Allie Millington

      Crescent City Books in New Orleans - has typewriters as decoration

      25:03 Typewriter community collectors/creators<br /> - Lucas Dul - The Williams Typewriter (Loose Dog Press) - Loose Dog Press series<br /> - Woz Flint - The Distraction-Free First Draft<br /> - Richard Polt - The Typewriter Revolution (after thought)

      28:43: Typewriter Magazines - ETCetera - Novellum Magazine (Writing related)

  3. Oct 2025
    1. Courtesy of @Pelicram ❤ : Peli's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight. This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level. The recipe: 70% Light machine oil. 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits. Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying. Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application. Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.,Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.,Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.,Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.

      https://discord.com/channels/639936208734126107/639938269030907914/1302694827682697330

      Pelicram's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight.

      This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level.

      The recipe: - 70% Light machine oil. - 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits.

      Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying.

      Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application.

      • Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.
      • Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.
      • Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.
      • Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.
    1. Cleaning Type Slugs Fast ! Removing Clogged Dirty Ink Typewriter Service How to Shine Those Faces by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      Duane cleans type slugs by draping the typewriter with cloths and then using a metal bristle brush and lacquer thinner. Small picks or an X-Acto knife can help to remove gunk from the interiors of the closed letters.

      He also uses tape to cover up the red paint on the word "De Luxe" so that the lacquer thinner doesn't damage it.

      He finishes off with a small shot of Nu-trol, which is a degreaser with some lubrication, and then follows up with a shot of compressed air to thin it out.

    1. The slugs are the metal pieces at the ends of the assemblies that start at the tops of the keys and go through the key levers attach to the segment (the semi-circular metal comb-like part in the "basket") via the typebars. The slugs are the ones that have the backward characters on them and when they hit the ribbon cause the letters to be applied to the paper. Over time the small loops of the characters can get filled with dust, dirt, ink, and bits of ribbon and as a result the type on your page isn't as crisp and good looking as you'd like.

      Here's a handful of videos with a variety of methods for cleaning one's slugs: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s8tE6P0YMQ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgSAS45WGI0 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKGipBLA5Eo

      You'll notice that for the day-to-day cleaning that people are using kneadable erasers, silly putty, or products like Bergeon Rodico 6033-1 as cleaning compounds for pulling ink and dust out quickly.


      There are some good basics and a great glossary in Hints for a Happy Typewriter: https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

      I've also collected some great mid-century short films on use and basic maintenance here: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Other resources you might find interesting: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      reply to u/DatLonerGirl at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o33p7n/when_was_the_last_time_you_cleaned_your_slugs/

  4. Sep 2025
  5. Aug 2025
    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mp43lf/a_sticky_shift_issue_olympia_sm9/

      Over time, dust and oil can clog up in the bearing and along the track that the segment glides up and down on causing this sort of issue. You can flush it out with mineral spirits (or something similar) while you actuate the shift key to remedy the issue. When you're done, then add back a drop of light (sewing) machine oil.

      While you're at it, most basket shift machines load them with large springs to assist with the weight and to help the return. They're typically attached to metal brackets that can be easily formed with pliers to either increase or decrease the force as necessary to suit your touch and preferred response. (YouTube videos may help here if necessary.)

      If that doesn't remedy it, then take the hood off and look closely at the mechanism to see if something is physically impeding it.

    1. reply to u/MirageAnne at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgmwkq/remington_rand_17/

      There are two general types of "sticky keys": 1. sticky going up 2. sticky coming down

      Sticky going up

      For stickiness slowing down the typebar (on the way up or down), it's likely that you've got oil, dirt, dust, or other sludge in the segment of your machine. You'll want to flush out your segment with some solvent and potentially blow things out with compressed air to remove the source of the friction.

      While you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      When you're done, it's common wisdom that one should NOT oil the segment.

      Sticky going down

      If your typebar(s) are sticking due to friction at the typing point, then they need some gentle forming to the right or the left to prevent them from rubbing on the typing point so that they can fall back down to the type rest. The two videos below will help describe and demonstrate the symptoms as well as the repair. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrlt6VyC8D0&t=485s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arspyq1w4Iw

      Other considerations

      It's much less common, but once everything is clean and properly aligned, if you're still seeing sluggishness, it may be the case that the spring on the individual key has broken or become disconnected which prevents it from returning back to the type rest.

  6. Jul 2025
    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lu9173/turns_out_mineral_spirits_are_illegal_in/

      Traditional mineral spirits are illegal in some states in the US including California. As an alternative odorless mineral spirits are low VOC, safer, and a solid alternative. Typewriter shops like Typewriter Justice in Keller, TX recommend it. Some who have access to cheaper mineral spirits still prefer the odorless version for the reduced residual smell.

      Nashville Typewriter, another shop, recommends camping fuel (aka white gas) which is mostly naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is primarily naphtha, but is much more expensive. In Germany, it goes under the names of Testbenzin or Reinigungsbenzin.

      Jennifer Colombo, a repair person of Colombo Collection suggests linseed oil to clean and protect metal surfaces and create a barrier against rust and oxidation.

    1. Not clean enough. There is only one solution, you take the body panels off and clean it. The keys here need cleaned with a 50/50 mix Simple Green and water. The comb area gets cleaned and blown out with mineral spirits. The basket gets cleaned, carefully, with lacquer thinner. If the insulation is really bad, you take it out and glue in new. I like EVA foam. But I will wash the insulation with SG and water and rinse it in the sink and then let dry and retest if it is in good condition otherwise. Case insides can tolerate some water if you don't like soak it. I use a pet spray, scrub it fast, rinse and get it dried off fast Then out in the sun or a fan blowing on it. Once it is dry, if it still smells, I take a few paper towels, spray Glade air freshener in them, set it in a tin foil pan and into the case. Then out in the sun closed up. That will kill most anything.

      u/jbhusker's cleaning out a typewriter

    1. This typewriter was quite grimy, so I removed the shell (fairly challenging) and gave it a bath in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. Mitch Hamm alerted me that such tanks, big enough to dip a portable while keeping its keys out of the water, are now available for a mere $150 or so. Here’s the Royal undergoing what sounds like electroshock therapy, but is really just a micro-agitated bath. Concentrated Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser was added to hot water in a 1:20 ratio.

      https://typewriterrevolution.com/a-green-machine/

      Richard Polt's experience in cleaning a Royal Portable with an ultrasonic cleaning tank with Simple Green in a 1:20 ratio.

    1. We switched to Ultra 3 detergent after using Dawn detergent for years. A quantum leap in effectiveness. When we got the new Ultra 2100 cabinet ultrasonic unit it came with a gallon of detergent. We used it ONE TIME and the parts came out so much cleaner, almost brand new. The detergent is expensive, yet we've never gone back.

      via u/palump at Bremerton Typewriter

      Ultra 3 Detergent: https://shop.ultrasonicllc.com/collections/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions/products/ultra-3-multi-purpose-ultrasonic-detergent

    1. We are often asked what ultrasonic cleaners we use in the shop. We have three. The large cabinet model that holds large typewriters such as Selectrics, a medium sized 12"X20", and a smaller cleaner 10"X12". The medium and smaller ones you can buy on eBay all day. The models change, and the sizes are all similar. The medium sized cleaner is used for small to medium sized typewriters and the small machine is mostly for nuts, screws and other tiny stuff.

      https://www.instagram.com/p/C2u5EkVrnq3/

      via Bremerton Typewriter<br /> - PS-100A Ultrasonic Cleaner<br /> - Ultra 2100 from Ultrasonic, LLC

  7. May 2025
    1. Try a toothbrush with a long, thin handle and a small head.

      The brushes sold with many metal and rubber straws or thin bottle brushes are also excellent for reaching into places like this. Sometimes you can find similar thin brushes in the baby bottle section of big box retailers or specialty stores doing baby goods.

      Similarly a plastic oiler with mineral spirits in combination with an air compressor/blow gun or canned air is also a solid way to go.

      Long handle cotton swabs can also be used if necessary.

      reply to u/General-Writing-1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1l05a17/i_dont_think_that_superficial_dust_should_be_a/

    1. reply to u/Omega48boar at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1knsgn8/pressure/

      I was wondering what the upper limit psi would be for blowing out the gunk using an air compressor.

      The highest air compressor pressures may be determined by your particular compressor's (or air canister's) maximum output as well as the maximum suggested output for any accessories you're attaching to it. Many basic air gun attachments have a max PSI of around 100 PSI even when the compressor will produce much higher outputs.

      Generally I find that for most benchwork on typewriters anywhere from 50-100 PSI is generally more than sufficient.

      Depending on the condition of your surroundings, I recommend putting a towel (or similar material) underneath your typewriter with a solid backstop so that if any springs, screws, or other valuable parts are blown loose, they're caught pretty quickly by the towel rather than flying across the room or down onto the floor out of sight.

      Higher pressure settings may be useful in some cases. One should always take care to be wearing protective garments and eyewear to prevent being spattered with caustic chemicals. Similarly protecting plastics, paint, and decals on your typewriter with appropriate cover is advised with some solvents.

      Operating the compressor, which can cause sparks as well as heat, at a reasonable distance from potential flammable vapors is also a mandatory safety precaution. Using volatile solvents frequently seen in typewriter cleaning procedures should only be done in the open in a well-ventilated area using appropriate masks to prevent inhalation of vapors. Long term exposure to vapors of substances like lacquer thinner can cause lung damage, COPD, and other adverse health effects.

      For extended usage pending the sorts of air gun tips which might be used for typewriter cleaning, one is also well advised to use ear protection to prevent long term hearing damage/loss.

    1. Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/


      People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

    1. Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.

  8. Apr 2025
    1. In the US, you can get one hundred 4" mascara brushes for around $5. Eye Tees (cottton swabs with a firm point on one end and a flat tip on the other) cost roughly the same. You'll find them at most beauty supply stores or online. These get into tight spaces. Dipped in mineral spirits (or whichever solvent you've come to like), the brush gets the stuff loose and the Tee wipes it away. Blasting air helps as well. Works for me. Others will have other ideas.

      via u/scmowner

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jyr2hc/the_best_way_to_get_rid_of_all_this_gunk/

      Colloquial advice to use 4" mascara brushes as a replacement for a segment pick for cleaning out typewriters.

  9. Mar 2025
    1. Old school repair guys used a lot of different stuff that's no longer available due to being... Not good. Ha. But naphta was one that's still widely available as white gas aka "coleman/camping fuel" Essentially naphtha with stabilizers to keep it from going bad. Mineral spirits works as well, but naphtha leaves less residue in my experience. Lacquer thinner is good for especially stubborn crap and cleaning slugs, but evaporates really fast and the fumes are no bueno. Alternatively; non toxic degreasing cleaners like simple green are usually my preferred method of cleaning up especially gross machines. Typically very safe on paint finishes and internals, just make sure to keep it off the decals. (It can and WILL erase them if it sits for more than 10 secs) Really though, nothing beats air and a long handled "paint" brush. My air compressor and blow out tube are some of my most cherished tools.

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jm7c02/is_it_better_to_use_mineral_spirits_or_lighter/?sort=old

      quote from Nashville Typewriter

  10. Jan 2025
  11. Nov 2024
    1. It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.

      People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.

      The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.

  12. Oct 2024
    1. Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)

      While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

      The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.


      via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

    1. Cakedinkmayberemovedwithtypeputty,alcohol,carbontetrachloride,oroneoftheproprietarydry-cleaningfluids,appliedwithabrush.Pressthetypeputtyontothetype,peelitoff,andthecakedinkcomeswithit.Ifyouusealiquid,firstliftthetypeandputpaperunderitto prevent dirt from dripping into the machine. When using type-cleaning fluid, be sure toWipe the type dry with a cloth before using the place paper under type to prevent dirt frommachine again.

      dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.

      compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ

      Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q

    1. Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]

      Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]

      On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.

      The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.

    1. https://www.amsterdamtypewriter.com/en-us/products/typewriter-care-kit-diy

      Amsterdam Typewriter's kit contains all the following essentials:<br /> * Brass wire brush (for cleaning the typeface) * Natural bristled brush (general cleaning purposes) * Microfiber cotton cloth (for polishing, gentle to paint) * New ribbon (black, red or black or purple color) * 3 compact cotton tissues (disposable, soak in cleaner or mild soap solution to clean typewriter) * Alcohol spray for cleaning (removes ink, oxidation, stains, surface rust) * Deodorizing spray (for disinfection and removing odor from cases and felt lining) * 10 Special cotton buds with long reach (do not leave cotton strings behind) * Our miracle polishing paste (wonderfully revives paint, also polishes on metal, paint, glass, fiberglass, plastic) * Leather rolling pouch for carrying * Comfy cotton bag for storage * Checklist for cleaning * Copy of manual with tips on cleaning of your typewriter and detailed steps

  13. Sep 2024
    1. delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.

      Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.

      Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.

    1. Typewriter Clear Plastic Card Guide Holder Clean Polish White Out Dirt Restore by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For cleaning white out off of the clear plastic on card guides try the following: - scrape with fingernail<br /> - Simple Green - Marvel Mystery Oil (from automotive shops) followed by lacquer thinner in miniscule amounts (one drop). The oil helps protect the plastic from melting from the lacquer thinner. Rinse and repeat.

      Others have indicated that floor wax stripper will remove white out without damaging the plastic of the card guides.

    1. Fossilized Masking Tape Removed Cleaned from Typewriter Body by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      The paint on the metal of the SMC 6 series typewriters will generally stand up well to lacquer thinner and along with scratching can be used to remove the old residual masking tape often found on these typewriters.

      WD-40, gun bore cleaner, and Simple Green generally don't do much to this sort of tape residue.

  14. Aug 2024
  15. Jul 2024
    1. It can be useful to take some mineral spirits, naphtha, or paint thinner and a tooth brush (or, even better, a brass bristle brush) to your typeface every now and then to clean the ink, dirt, paper, bits of ribbon, dust, etc. out of it. Doing it after changing ribbon is always a good idea. If you're really hard pressed, nail polish remover (acetone) or rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball along with a small pin tip for the loops of letters like 'a', 'o', 'p', 'g', etc. can be used.

      How well (or not) your typewriter works from a print perspective can also change with the type of paper you're using, what your ribbon is made out of (usually nylon, silk, or cotton), how much ink it's got in it and how old/worn it may be. A good backing sheet behind your typing paper can also be helpful.


      reply to u/kirrachristine at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dtuksy/one_letter_weirdly_thicksmudged/ RE: one letter weirdly thick/smudged

  16. Jun 2024
  17. May 2024
    1. To be more specific on solvents for beginners, potentially try mineral spirits (white spirit in UK), paint thinner, naphtha (lighter fluid), kerosene, varnish remover, PB B'laster, or carburetor or brake cleaner. Be careful as many of these are flammable and some can remove paint or decals; use all of them in a well ventilated area. You may see some recommend household variations of alcohol, but these do contain water and generally aren't very effective solvents for the types of oil/grease/dust you'll probably want to remove; professional typewriter repair shops would not use alcohol on a machine. And for those in the back, no one but a psychopath would use WD-40 on a machine's internals.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8 is a pretty solid cleaning primer. Searching YouTube will uncover some potential additional advice in addition to what you can find at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

      Good luck. That's a lovely machine!

    1. it is not mold; it is plasticizers coming out of the plastic. I remove it with various means: alcohol, polishing with a very fine polish, Goo Gone™, naptha, and such.

      The white gunky substances seen on the plastic keys of old, unmaintained typewriters generally isn't mold, but plasticizers coming out of the plastic. These can usually be cleaned off using simple household cleaning products or if necessary heavier cleaners (Goo Gone, alcohol, naptha, etc. - test these on hidden parts first to ensure they don't react with or destroy the plastic or remove the paint of the key letters) followed up by light waxes or polishes and buffing.

  18. May 2023
    1. WD-40 for Crinkle Finish Typewriters — Does it work??

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1t6QtARyI

      WD-40, which has paraffin wax as an ingredient, can be brushed onto the crinkle finish of a typewriter to clean it up and give it some shine. Use a rag to wipe off excess and take care not to get any in the segment comb. The difference on a generally clean typewriter appears to be negligible and primarily results in a WD-40 smell.

      Would something like Armor All work better? Car wax might also work as well. Powder coating polish could work, but it may act as a gentle abrasive as it is also meant to lift stains.

    1. Typewriter Cleaning and Repair Basics #2 Type Bars, Case, and Crinkle Finish

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82O_iUAI5og


      Segment comb cleaning - isopropyl alcohol (gentler solvent) - odorless mineral spirits - Lacquer thinner (maybe a bit too aggressive) - naphtha (lighter fluid) take care for flammability and ventilation

      Work solvent into bearing between type bar and segment comb. To dry things out one can used compressed air when done or just air dry.

      If sticking keys not due to being gummed up, bend portions slightly for better alighment.

      Do not lubricate the segment comb.

      Only lubricate the carriage rails when necessary.

      Exterior cleaning

      Brass bristle or nylon bristle brushes (toothbrushes) can be used to clean the exterior of the typewriter and/or cases with mild detergents or other solvents. Depending on the finish, try the brush and solvent on a small portion to determine colorfastness and potential scratching first.

  19. Apr 2023