reply to u/MorsaTamalera at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1xjo3ly/do_my_type_pieces_seem_ok_or_do_they_need_cleaning/

During a period when people got their machines serviced regularly, the general advice was to bush out the slugs with a stiff bristle brush (firm toothbrushes make a reasonable tool here) once every eight hours of typing. See: https://youtu.be/ocdxgkxKAKo?si=Qz5PSud60SYGVvH6&t=328

If you've got some dirtier slugs, a degreaser like mineral spirits in combination with a a brass bristle brush can be used to better effect. Some also use pins, toothpicks, or even dental picks to clean out the harder to clean loops of letters like a, e, b, g, d, etc.

A variety of solvents can be used if you don't have any mineral spirits on hand including isopropyl alcohol, fingernail polish remover, lighter fluid, or even gasoline and kerosene (though obviously take care that your cigarettes and open flames aren't around). See also: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/#nail-polish%20remover

https://www.facebook.com/groups/TypewriterCollectors/posts/10159234560699678/

Typewriter repair pros used Lix mixed with solvent in typewriter tanks to dip machines for cleaning.

• James C. Cagle of The Typewriter Shop, 340 Alder Street, Junction City, OR
• Jack Lacy of Central Printer Resources, 4599 E Ramon Road, Palm Springs, CA

Servicing the Hermes 3000 Typewriter<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]] on YouTube

Most typewriter shops did not use alcohol as it was ineffective and contained water. Industrial alcohols contained keytones and acetones that will melt plastic and remove paint.

Solvents for typewriters used in repair shops: - White mineral spirits with a squeeze bottle. (Sometimes also called Varsol, Stoddard's Formula, and possibly Inhibisol) - Naphtha (aka lighter fluid; used in Zippo lighters, and frequently seen in Europe). PB B'laster is essentially pressurized naphtha in a can. - Auto carb and brake cleaners, usually pressurized in a can. These usually have acetone in them and will melt plastic. Will remove WD-40 if accidentally used on a typewriter.

For cleaning typeslugs, one can use naphtha or mineral spirits with a brass bristle brush.

For platen cleaning try mineral spirits or fedron.

Only oil the carriage rails for the bearings or trucks.

(This is all colloquial advice, albeit with experience, so check specific facts about what certain products contain.)

Your IPA is temporarily liquifying the oil and grime, but as it evaporates near room temperature pretty quickly (as do other degreasers like mineral spirits, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, naphtha, etc.), it disappears and leaves the oil and grime behind.

While you're flushing it out, be sure to move the typebars back and forth to help flush the grime out of the segment as you add more IPA (or other degreaser). If you have it available, it's also helpful to loosen things up with a degreaser and follow it up immediately with compressed air to blow out all the grime.

It may take several rounds of flushing and air to completely free up your typebars. Things aren't really clean until they're dry and move freely.

reply to u/Otherwise_Thing_6384 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ruh4u0/faceit_freede_problem/

via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214

Your alcohol is making the old oil and dust fluid again for a while, but without either fully flushing it out or blowing it out with compressed air, the solvent evaporates and the remaining solid oil/dust freezes things up again.

Rubbing alcohol is probably one of the worst degreasers, but people recommend it because most people often have some in their house already. (Depending on the type, it also contains high proportions of water which isn't the best thing to mix with your metal typewriter.)

To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means (be careful for splattering and cover the plastic and painted portions of the machine and surroundings with a rag). This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out.

2-5 flushes can sometimes be required before you've really gotten all the old gunk out of your machine. I often wait several hours or even overnight to test the action after flushing before I re-attach body panels, etc.

If you can acquire a small plastic oiler (see https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/) it can help to minimize the amounts of solvent you're using and the flexible tip will allow you to not only direct the flow of solvent, but create some fluid pressure when you squeeze the bottle.

(Naturally use your degreaser in a well-ventilated space away from open flames and sparks...)

See also: https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/

Reply to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qroqbf/halp/

reply to u/HomosexualTypewriter at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m5qd7e/how_to_remove_stuckon_felt/

How to remove stuck-on felt?

Generally I've dusted the worst off into the trash and then used a mild soap and soft bristle brush to clean the remainder. You won't get 100%, but it's not visible and doesn't affect performance, so I don't worry about remaining residue. You could try light solvents that won't affect the paint too much or attempt some light sanding. Another alternate is to replace the old foam with new felt and you won't see anything.

I just pulled out my '57 FP that has foam with a black, molasses-like adhesive to hold it on. Goo Gone works incredibly well at removing that adhesive and any residual foam without damaging the paint. I put a small patch of Goo Gone soaked paper towel on top of the adhesive smudge to let it soak for a few minutes and then was able to relatively easily remove all of the adhesive without any issues. A pass or two removed it pretty quickly.

My later '61 FP has the somewhat more standard industrial felt which was in reasonable condition, so I've left it on and not tested that.

Honestly, unless it's really thick or cumbersome and you're replacing it with felt, simply gluing over the original is probably your bet course of action.

https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lu9173/turns_out_mineral_spirits_are_illegal_in/

Traditional mineral spirits are illegal in some states in the US including California. As an alternative odorless mineral spirits are low VOC, safer, and a solid alternative. Typewriter shops like Typewriter Justice in Keller, TX recommend it. Some who have access to cheaper mineral spirits still prefer the odorless version for the reduced residual smell.

Nashville Typewriter, another shop, recommends camping fuel (aka white gas) which is mostly naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is primarily naphtha, but is much more expensive. In Germany, it goes under the names of Testbenzin or Reinigungsbenzin.

Jennifer Colombo, a repair person of Colombo Collection suggests linseed oil to clean and protect metal surfaces and create a barrier against rust and oxidation.

Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/

People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline

https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1grn0jx/just_found_an_unmentioned_feature_on_my_sg3/

Suggestion to use "barbecue igniting fluid"! 🤣

While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.

The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.

via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/

dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.

compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ

Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q

Hints for a Happy Typewriter<br /> Bryan Kravitz, Nancy Gorrell, 1983<br /> https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual

Some good, basic home care and use from 1983. Home mechanics in 2024 are probably capable of a bit more without the backstop of a typewriter mechanic.

This guide suggest the use of solvents like alcohol or trichloroethane for cleaning type slugs and internals. Note that trichloroethane manufacture and use has diminished significantly since 1996 when it was identified by the Montreal Protocol as a contributor to ozone depletion.

https://new.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1fh2vab/any_suggestions_to_remove_this_permanent_marker/

To be more specific on solvents for beginners, potentially try mineral spirits (white spirit in UK), paint thinner, naphtha (lighter fluid), kerosene, varnish remover, PB B'laster, or carburetor or brake cleaner. Be careful as many of these are flammable and some can remove paint or decals; use all of them in a well ventilated area. You may see some recommend household variations of alcohol, but these do contain water and generally aren't very effective solvents for the types of oil/grease/dust you'll probably want to remove; professional typewriter repair shops would not use alcohol on a machine. And for those in the back, no one but a psychopath would use WD-40 on a machine's internals.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8 is a pretty solid cleaning primer. Searching YouTube will uncover some potential additional advice in addition to what you can find at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html

Good luck. That's a lovely machine!

https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/21zpri/what_you_should_know_before_cleaning_your/

Note the stated 33 year experience as typewriter repairman

should find a better reference

Hermes Rocket Typewriter Case Cleaning — Crazy Results, Simple Tools

A few hours with some mild soap and water and a toothbrush will clean up most of a plastic typewriter case.

A mild solvent like isopropyl alcohol can generally get the remainder of any tough spots or gummy spills.