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  1. Last 7 days
    1. Typewriter Typefaces: Pica vs Elite, an explainer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwCD69jUPps

      Pica machines (10 characters per inch) will usually have a scale up to about 80-84.

      Elite machines (12 characters per inch) will have a scale up to 100.

      On Olympia machines, script only comes in Elite sizes (scale to 100 on platen).

      Edit: fixed the appropriate CPI numbers

    1. Successful Secretary Presented by Royal Office Typewriters. A Thomas Craven Film Corporation Production, 1966. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=If5b2FiDaLk.

      Script: Lee Thuna<br /> Educational Consultant: Catharine Stevens<br /> Assistant Director: Willis F. Briley<br /> Design: Francisco Reynders<br /> Director & Producer: Carl A. Carbone<br /> A Thomas Craven Film Corporation Production

      "Mother the mail"

      gendered subservience

      "coding boobytraps"


      "I think you'll like the half sheet better. It is faster." —Mr. Typewriter, timestamp

      A little bit of the tone of "HAL" from 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968). This is particularly suggestive as H.A.L. was a one letter increment from I.B.M. and the 1966 Royal 660 was designed to compete with IBM's Selectric

      This calm voice makes suggestions to a secretary while H.A.L. does it for a male astronaut (a heroic figure of the time period). Suddenly the populace feels the computer might be a bad actor.

      "We're living in an electric world, more speed and less effort."—Mr. Typewriter<br /> (techno-utopianism)

  2. Jun 2025
    1. Kmart 300 Deluxe 12 Typewriter by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Because of the geometry of the JP-7's ribbon vibrator, which hinges from the right rather from the middle, the ribbon can rub against the paper/platen. To remedy this, one can mis-thread the left side to keep the ribbon away from the paper.

    1. InCoWriMo is the short name for International Correspondence Writing Month, otherwise known as February. With an obvious nod to NaNoWriMo for the inspiration, InCoWriMo challenges you to hand-write and mail/deliver one letter, card, note or postcard every day during the month of February.
    1. I've been wanting to learn electroplating so I bought the variable power supply and an anode. I had the rest. I made my own nickel acetate with vinegar and my own pickle with water and muriatic acid, baking soda in water to neutralize. Mother's to polish metals. It's my go to. Fabric was denim and poly canvas. Cheap poly grosgrain ribbon to hide my sins. 3M spray adhesive, contact cement, and fabric glue. I used double cap rivets for the hardware.
    1. If you're looking for pink, here's a shop that repairs and refinishes them (repaints) in pink: https://karlbusinessmachines.com/pink-typewriters/

      As for natural pink manufactured typewriters, you're probably primarily looking at the Royal Quiet De Luxe (circa '55-58), Royal Futura 800, Royal FP (a larger heavy, standard desktop machine), the late 50's Smith-Corona 5 series (Clippers, Sterlings, Silent Supers). There were a few later in the 60s and 70s, but they're more difficult to find in the US and aren't as solid. These aren't rare typewriters, but generally because the collector's market likes color, you should expect to pay a $50-150 premium for pink in most online markets. Professional shops are much less likely to charge this sort of premium on pink unless it's for a machine they've had to strip down and repaint. (See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kw5jxh/what_are_your_thoughts_on_these_and_the_prices/)

      For colloquial experience from a typewriter hunter from the Los Angeles area, I'll say I've been looking for a Cameo Pink smooth Royal FP for over a year and finally found one in solid, but restorable shape for $35, but it's taken a year of searching and it'll take a half-day's labor and some parts to clean it up to what a professional shop would consider solid working condition. In that time I've seen maybe half a dozen in online shops sell them in similar rough condition going for anywhere between $100 and $300. For your budget range, getting one from a professional shop is really the best, most economical way to go.

      Please note that you positively don't want any of the new pink plastic typewriters made by "Royal Classic" or "We R Memory Keepers" (etc.) which you'll find on Amazon, Michaels, Home Depot, etc. for $200-300. They are dreadful machines, and if you really want one, save the money and buy one from ShopGoodwill.com for $5-15 instead.

      If you wanted to go custom in your particular budget range, you might check out Gerren's work at Hot Rod Typewriter Co. where he does some truly gorgeous paint jobs on excellent typewriters. I suspect a pink Olympia SM3 from him would be a thing to behold.

      Reply to u/dtja1l at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1l0l6pi/help_finding_a_thoughtful_typewriter_as_a_gift/ with regard to buying a pink typewriter for a birthday present

  3. May 2025
    1. Try a toothbrush with a long, thin handle and a small head.

      The brushes sold with many metal and rubber straws or thin bottle brushes are also excellent for reaching into places like this. Sometimes you can find similar thin brushes in the baby bottle section of big box retailers or specialty stores doing baby goods.

      Similarly a plastic oiler with mineral spirits in combination with an air compressor/blow gun or canned air is also a solid way to go.

      Long handle cotton swabs can also be used if necessary.

      reply to u/General-Writing-1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1l05a17/i_dont_think_that_superficial_dust_should_be_a/

    1. reply to u/Back2Analog at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kzw0fk/your_typewriter_collection/?sort=old

      1. Total: I currently have 53 with 2 incoming and 1 outbound. About 12 are standards, 7 ultra-portables, and the remainder are portables. Maybe a dozen non-standard typefaces including 2 Vogues and a Clarion Gothic. You can find most of the specifics at https://typewriterdatabase.com/typewriters.php?hunter_search=7248 or on my site at https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#My%20Typewriter%20Collection

      2. Display: I've usually got eight displayed in various places around the house including three on desks, but ready to actively type on. The remainder are in cases either behind our living room couch or a closet for easy access and rotation. I'm debating a large credenza or cabinet for additional display/storage space. There are two machines out in the garage, and one currently disassembled on our dining room table (my wife isn't a fan of this one right now).

      3. About 25 have been cleaned and mostly restored, most are functional/usable, but need to be cleaned, repaired, or restored to some level. One is a parts machine. I always have a Royal KMG, a Royal FP, and two other standards out ready to go and rotate the others on a semi-weekly basis. There's usually at least one portable in my car for typing out in the wild.

      4. Use cases: I spend a few hours a day writing on one or more machines and use them for nearly every conceivable case from quick notes (zettels), letters, essays, lists, snide remarks, poetry, etc., etc. I should spend more time typing for the typosphere. Because I enjoy restoring machines maybe even more than collecting them, I've recently started taking mechanic/restoration commissions.

      5. At 50 machines, I'm about at the upper limit of my collecting space. I've given away a few to interested parties, and sold a small handful that I didn't use as frequently. I'm currently trying to balance incoming versus outgoing and might like to get my collection down to a tighter 35-40 machines in excellent condition.

      6. Next typewriters: I'm currently looking for an Olympia SG1, a Royal Ten, a Hermes Ambassador, and a Hermes 3000. I'm also passively looking for either very large (6 or 8 CPI) or very small typefaces (>12CPI). I'm definitely spending less time actively hunting these days and more time restoring. I'm tending towards being far more selective in acquisitions compared to my earlier "acquisition campaign".

      7. Miscellaneous: I enjoy writing about typewriter collecting and repair to help out others: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

    2. I recently found the Remington Mark II as a compromise since I have not been able to find a Torpedo 18B at a decent price and they are mechanically identical.
    3. Writing letters mostly to people from InCoWriMo or (more frequently) TypePals.com I often will write short stories for my kids or journaling entries, though I have been writing more journal entries with fountain pens these days.
    1. Reply to u/eJelly at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kyf66p/ribbon_replacements_for_smith_corona_corsair/

      Typically Corsair spools are 1 5/8" in diameter and sometimes listed as 1 2/3" in diameter. Ribbons Unlimited carries them if you need both the spools AND the ribbon: https://www.ribbonsunlimited.com/category-s/12685.htm

      Otherwise, if you have spools that already fit, then just buy the ribbon and spool it onto your empty spools to save the $10-15 for the extra spools. See: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      The eyelets are for doing the ribbon auto-reverse on Smith-Corona machines, but your print will go faint when you reach the end and you can do the reverse manually if necessary.

      As a pending birthday stop-gap, I have done the trick before of typing on a blank sheet with a carbon paper and a second sheet behind it. You won't be able to easily see what is on the first sheet, but you'll have the carbon copy behind it!

      If you're in a bind, many of the big-box office supply stores carry 1/2 inch wide ribbon for calculators which you could spool into your existing typewriter spools as well. Typically these are much shorter in length, but they'll work in a pinch.

    1. Typewriter Video Series - Episode 189: Underwood SX by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Joe mentions, again, how standards fill up your field of view and aid in cutting out distractions so you can focus more while writing.

      At the end Joe talks about the hobby of repairing typewriters.

    1. Royal Futura 800 Vintage Manual Typewriter Ribbon Change Install Magic Margin Demo by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      A quick overview of the Royal Futura 800. Duane shows the very basics here including one of the simplest ribbon changes out there. He also does a quick overview of the Magic Margins, though it's not the best demonstration.

    1. I repaired it using 2-part epoxy, and fiberglass dry wall tape. First routed out the path of the crack, and created a little reservoir for the glue just past the end of the crack, then applied the tape and worked the epoxy into the voids. I've been using it for a week now, and it looks like it's going to hold just fine.
    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ktb7ty/what_are_the_rules_of_typewriter_club/?sort=new

      The Rules of Typewriter Club

      The first rule of Typewriter club is Do not oil the segment.

      The second rule of Typewriter club is DO NOT oil the segment.

      Do not ask the value of your typewriter: they are invaluable.

      Always talk about typewriter club. Every chance you get: to family, friends, complete strangers...

      If you only have one typewriter, you must refer to it as "my FIRST typewriter".

      If you're new to typewriter club, you have to type.

      A typewriter is not broken unless it is clean and broken.

      Parts of a typewriter should only be removed in order to repair another typewriter.

      Keychoppers shall have the extremities they used to chop keys chopped off.

      More than one machine is allowed to be your "favorite".

      The last typewriter you bought is the greatest one. Until the next one.

      Never leave a typewriter outside, in a barn, or in a damp basement to rust.

      Typewriters are to type with. They should not be "flipped".

      Any reason is a good reason to buy and use a typewriter.

      The hardest part of typewriter repair is believing you can do it. Everything else is just instructions plus a careful, thoughtful hand. —Rt. Rev. Theodore Munk

      If you see a typewriter, you should take photos and upload the details to the TypewriterDatabase.com.

      Typewriters are not mood setting decor, they are meant to be used.

      Always leave a typewriter in better condition than you found it.

      We form things; we do not "bend" them.

      The only acceptable way to dispose of a typewriter is to find it a new home. The only exception is in dire circumstances in time of war when one should follow the guidance of the Underwood manual and "Smash typewriters and components with a sledge or other heavy instrument; burn with kerosene, gasoline, fuel oil, flame thrower, or incendiary bomb; detonate with firearms, grenades, TNT, or other explosives."

      If anyone asks you about your typewriter, you must spend at least five minutes talking to them about it.

      Legitimate typewriter sellers never use the phrases "it works" or "it just needs a new ribbon."

      Remember that typewriters are dangerous and can be used for samizdat. As Woody Guthrie wrote: "This machine kills fascists."

      Blessed are those who give typewriters to children for theirs is the Kingdom of Heaven.

      "In death, they have a name." Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton. Lenore Fenton!

      The Typewriter Database does not list every single serial number, just ranges of numbers and years in which they were made. You are responsible for figuring out which year your number fits into.

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is seller's code for "I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with."

    1. It's oil cloth, but not the kind made today, sadly. Contact cement is fine. For a refurb, take lots of pictures. Undo any screwed in components (usually the handle and a couple springs). Using a dremel or similar rotary tool, gently grind down the inside cap of each rivet. It's easiest to use a pin and hammer to knock them out and avoid damaging the wood rather than prying the hardware up. Set aside the hardware for cleaning. Sometimes they're split rivets (which I loathe) and you have to be VERY careful to not wreck the wood pulling those. LOATHE. Get the case WET. It'll soften the glue, make it far easier to remove and keep the glue dust out of your lungs. Pay attention to the order in which it comes off and where the various cuts are made. Scrub the case clean. Let it FULLY dry. Sand any uneven areas and patch what needs patching. Make placement templates in case you have trouble locating the original holes for the hardware. Ensure your rivets or attachment parts will work with the existing holes, modify if needed. Install the internal top and bottom lining. Install the hardware with a pop rivet gun. Put the outside upholstery on. Install the handles/feet/rest. Put the sidewall lining in. Seal any surfaces as desired. Done. If the wooden case is beyond repair but hardware is good, you can build a new case and use the same hardware provided the internal dimensions and hardware placements match the original. I'm mid process on two portable wooden cases or I'd show pics.
    1. Electric Repair Tip: Drive Belt Replacements by [[Sarah Everett]] of [[Just My Typewriter]]

    2. these 7:36 are the ones i picked up and these were 7:38 three and three-fourths by four by 7:40 one-eighth

      Sarah Everett has used water filter o-rings of 3 3/4 x 4 1/8 to replace the drive belts of her electric typewriters.

      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUYEJB2/

    3. i used a saw to just make the 6:46 one edge of that phillips head a little 6:48 bit deeper so that i could then use a 6:51 flat top screwdriver in there to remove 6:52 that screw the next time that way when i 6:55 put that screw back in there i could 6:56 remove it later just using a flat head 6:58 screwdriver instead of a phillips 7:00 now this was a little bit of a ratchet 7:02 job but it did the trick and with that i 7:04 had a working electric typewriter

      Sarah Everett suggests using a saw to turn Phillips head screws into a flat head screw if they've been stripped.

    4. i couldn't 4:50 get into the typewriter the screws were 4:52 in there so tight that there was no way 4:54 i could get that bottom off of the 4:55 machine so i did the only logical thing 4:58 i could think of i set it upside down 4:59 and then forgot about it for a really 5:01 long time i then went back in once i got 5:03 the confidence to go into this machine

      Confidence is a (the?) key ingredient of typewriter repair.

    5. i don't know 4:26 how i fixed it i kind of stabbed it a 4:28 lot with a screwdriver until it worked

      rofl!

    6. i 2:15 didn't know if it was broken because it 2:17 needed cleaned

      curious, but common phrase "needed cleaned"...

      Appalachian dialect?

    7. in fact almost 0:28 all of my successful repairs have come 0:30 from a lot of faith trust a little bit 0:32 of pixie dust and a lot of googling
    1. reply to u/highspeed_steel at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1krspvh/im_totally_blind_and_new_to_typewriters_wax/

      Your question is a great one, but I'll go another direction since I'd dug into some of the history and details of Helen Keller's mid-century typewriters a while back. You can find some details and descriptions here (and in the associated links which includes an accessible video of Ms. Keller using a solid and sexy black Remington Noiseless standard typewriter): https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ihot96/helen_kellers_typewriters/

      She managed on both her Remington as well as her brailler as well as any sighted person, though obviously had someone to check her printed work.

      I recently saw another heavily modified midcentury typewriter for someone who, if I recall correctly was not only blind, but had no arms. It was set up so that they could move a selector and type using a custom chin rest. Sadly, I didn't index it at the time, but it's interesting to know that such things existed for accessibility reasons.

      As for Braillers, you might appreciate this recent article about a repairman in Britain who was retiring: https://www.theguardian.com/society/2025/jan/02/wed-be-stuck-alarm-as-uks-last-braille-typewriter-repairer-ponders-retirement

      I've got my own brailler, which is a sleek-looking art-deco industrial piece of art with the loveliest shade of dark shiny gray paint I've ever seen on a typewriter. (I'm both a mathematician and information theorist into the areas of coding and cryptography, so Morse code, Braille, etc. are professionally fascinating to me.) I still need to take it apart and repair a few portions to get it back to perfection, but it generally works well.

      As for the aesthetics, I personally enjoy the solid industrial look and feel of the machines from the 1930s-1960s. The early 30s and some 40s have glossy black enamel and machines like the Corona Standard/Silent from the 30s are low slung with flat tops that sort of resemble small pianos and just scream out "I'm a writer" with a flair for dark academia and just a hint of classical Roman design. Many of these machines come with gold tinged water-slide decals which really set themselves off against the black enamel, though on the majority of machines the gold is beginning to dim from time, wear, and uncareful application of cleaning solutions.

      I love the Royal KMM, KMG, and the Remington 17, Standard, and Super-Riter for their industrial chonkiness and (usually) their glass keytops. One of my favorites is the Henry Dreyfuss designed Royal Quiet De Luxe from 1948 which always gives me the feel of what it would look like if a typewriter wore a tuxedo or the 1948 gray and chrome model which is similar but has the feel of a sleek gray flannel suit on a 1950s advertising executive prone to wearing dapper hats, smoking cigarettes, and always with a cocktail in his hand. Into the 50s and 60s almost everyone had moved to plastic keytops which I don't think are as pretty as the older glass keytops with the polished metal rings around them.

      At the opposite end of that spectrum are the late 50s Royal FP and Futura 800s which have some colorful roundness which evokes the aesthetic of the coming space age. They remind me of the modern curves and star shapes of the television show The Jetsons. Similarly space-aged are the sexy curves of the silver metalic spray paint on wooden cases for the Olympia SM3 from the same period. These to me are quintessential typewriter industrial design. In gray, green, maroon, brown, and sometimes yellow crinkle paint with just a hint of sparkle in their keytops I really love the combination of roundedness and slight angularity these German designed machines provide. They have a definite understated sort of elegance most other typewriters just miss. I suspect that late-in-life Steve Jobs would have had an Olympia SM3.

      There's something comforting about the 40s and 50s sports-car vibe of the smaller Smith-Corona portables of the 5 series machines in the 1950s with their racing stripes on the hood. They feel like the sort of typewriter James Dean would have used as a student—just hip enough to be cool while still be solid and functional.

      Sadly into the 70s, while machines typically got a broader range of colors outside of the typical black, gray, and browns things became more plastic and angular. They also begin to loose some of the industrial mid-century aesthetic that earlier machines had. They often feel very 70s in an uncomplimentary way without the fun color combinations or whimsy that art and general design of of that period may have had in the music or fashion spaces. They make me think of politics and war rather than the burgeoning sexual revolution of the time period.

      Interestingly, for me, I feel like most typewriter design was often 10-20 years behind the general design aesthetic/zeitgeist for the particular decades in which they were made.

      Good luck in your search for the right typewriter(s) for your own collection.

    1. reply to u/Omega48boar at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1knsgn8/pressure/

      I was wondering what the upper limit psi would be for blowing out the gunk using an air compressor.

      The highest air compressor pressures may be determined by your particular compressor's (or air canister's) maximum output as well as the maximum suggested output for any accessories you're attaching to it. Many basic air gun attachments have a max PSI of around 100 PSI even when the compressor will produce much higher outputs.

      Generally I find that for most benchwork on typewriters anywhere from 50-100 PSI is generally more than sufficient.

      Depending on the condition of your surroundings, I recommend putting a towel (or similar material) underneath your typewriter with a solid backstop so that if any springs, screws, or other valuable parts are blown loose, they're caught pretty quickly by the towel rather than flying across the room or down onto the floor out of sight.

      Higher pressure settings may be useful in some cases. One should always take care to be wearing protective garments and eyewear to prevent being spattered with caustic chemicals. Similarly protecting plastics, paint, and decals on your typewriter with appropriate cover is advised with some solvents.

      Operating the compressor, which can cause sparks as well as heat, at a reasonable distance from potential flammable vapors is also a mandatory safety precaution. Using volatile solvents frequently seen in typewriter cleaning procedures should only be done in the open in a well-ventilated area using appropriate masks to prevent inhalation of vapors. Long term exposure to vapors of substances like lacquer thinner can cause lung damage, COPD, and other adverse health effects.

      For extended usage pending the sorts of air gun tips which might be used for typewriter cleaning, one is also well advised to use ear protection to prevent long term hearing damage/loss.

    1. Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.

      To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/


      People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.

    1. SCM Electric Typewriters by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      Tips for cleaning the Smith-Corona 6 series electric typewriters and details about how they work.

      S-C also made this series of typewriter for both Sears and Singer under their branding. (including the Singer Electric in this video.)

      The belts on the electric motor and cams was originally a rubber 'V' belt which is no longer manufactured. Using 1/8" round cross-section o-rings of appropriate sizes (for water cannister applications) is the recommended replacement, however one may need to slightly move the drive motor down a bit so that the belt doesn't hit the frame of the typewriter and thereby destroying it over time.

      Cleaning and lubricating the drive motors and moving pieces before using may help before trying out a typewriter which has been sitting for long periods of time.

      Some later models had an electric return, which can tend to be violent. Electro 220 and Coronet Automatic 12 have an additional clutch and draw band (and lack of return lever on the carriage) for their electric returns.

    1. reply to u/letsjustwrite and u/CowCommercial1992 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1iilo0f/re_inking_ribbons/

      None of these are really prohibitively expensive, especially when purchased in bulk. Both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line offer black/red bichrome ribbon in most of these materials for a very reasonable price:

      • nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard
      • silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard
      • cotton ribbon $0.25/yard

      If you're going to buy even 3-6 spools of ribbon at individual prices of $9-20 per spool, you may as well make the investment in a half or full reel of inked typewriter ribbon and save yourself a lot of hassle. My guess is that if you're buying your own ribbon in small quantities, you're going to pay even more than these prices to have uninked ribbon. Unless you have some serious equipment and technique, you're highly unlikely to be able to ink your own bichrome ribbon, so you're stuck with monochrome.

      While using ink stamp pads is "doable", it's a lot of work for a very poor result.

      I've yet to hear of more than a very tiny handful of people who are interested in the art or process of this to bother with attempting to re-ink typewriter ribbon, silk or otherwise. Generally, if they do it for any reason (other than the one time "fun of it"), it's for environmental reasons rather than pricing ones.

      As an inveterate tinkerer, I've tried some of my own re-inking experiments to very mixed results. I've given up bespoke ribbon for bulk purchases.

    1. There are generally only a few configurations for ribbon vibrators with respect to ribbon threading, look at a few manuals here and surely yours will be covered by one: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Typically the rule is that the ribbon sits closer to the paper at the typing point than any piece of the vibrator and is then threaded through the arms of the vibrator. From there it often goes through holders at the ribbon cup and then into the spool.

    1. follow up reply:

      After some additional research on the typewriter database, the YY = 92 (where the serial number is of the form: FP[P,E,S]-XX-YY-#######, where XX is the platen length and YY is for other special features) indicates that the machine has 46 character keys (and thus 46*2=96 glyphs on the slugs). There are also examples of YY=88 with 44 keys versus the standard 42 or 43 keys.

      This means that your machine has a few extra keys not found on their standard keyboards at the time.

    2. reply:

      I've been looking at the typewriter database and have been able to discern the fact that the designator YY=88 seems to indicate that an FP had a Royal HH-like palm tabulator, where the serial number is of the form: FP[P,E,S]-XX-YY-#######, where XX is the platen length and YY is for other special features.

      I can't help but wonder what the YY = 92 indicates on Martyn's machine.

    1. After some continued research on the TWdB, I've come to realize that the "88" in the serial number has likely nothing to do with the palm tabulator.

      The 88 is for an extra character count due to more keys (44) versus the more standard 42 or 43 keys and similarly some examples with a 92 in the serial number corresponds to 46 characters. So there isn't a designator in the serial number for a palm tabulator.

      See: <br /> - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.22586.typewriter<br /> - https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/<br /> - https://amsterdamassassin.wordpress.com/2018/12/16/typecast-my-royal-fp-steampunk/

    1. Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]

      For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.

    1. https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kg820b/just_bought_this_typewriter_for_10_at_a_charity/

      For a second, I thought perhaps the "88" in the serial number was a designator for the palm tabulator, but one of the other two in the database doesn't have that option (visually), though the single picture (of 5853) looks like it may have broken off or been removed on that example: - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1960-royal-fp.1241.typewriter - https://typewriterdatabase.com/1961-royal-fp.5853.typewriter

      If you upload some additional photos of yours to the database, perhaps we can puzzle out what the "88" designator means if it's not the palm tabulator functionality?

      The E on FPE means "elite" or 12 characters per inch. The "13" indicates a 13 inch wide platen. The raw serial number seems to indicate it was made in 1960: https://typewriterdatabase.com/royal.72.typewriter-serial-number-database

    1. And is it true that you enjoy taking typewriters apart and putting them back together? Doherty : Of course. It’s just that I’m so attracted to these objects that I want to look inside them, to understand how they work. It’s a form of learning, for me it would be a dream to have a shop specializing in repairing typewriters. Maybe one day… Among the many, I love the Valentine model by Olivetti, sooner or later I absolutely want to visit Ivrea.

      The Olivetti Valentine is one of Pete Doherty's favorites.

  4. Apr 2025
    1. I actually have pretty good feedback to share on this... I bought the remaining inventory from the guy that does these about 3 years back. We initially had a verbal agreement about me taking over the turboplaten business and we discussed the process in detail while loading a truck full of typewriters, but as the day wore on he seemed a little reluctant and when we started getting into inner/outer diameter measurements and specific PVC tubing he kinda clammed up. *For the record, I wasn't put out by it really as I had virtually zero intention of starting a platen business and told him as such- that any I made would likely only be for machines I sold. But it definitely felt weird as he literally gave me his custom built lathe and much of his tubing stock. 🤷🏻‍♂️ That said, I know how to make these from start to finish. The quality is decent enough, and the ones I got from him and the ones I made myself perform pretty well for the most part. However, I found some machines react poorly to the different material - causing escapement skip. The PVC material is bouncier than natural rubber, and doesn't play well with ALL typewriters without being specifically messed with during construction. His method of heat treatment of the tubing is what's supposed to combat this, but it's almost impossible to gauge the amount of heat needed for various machines specific escapements. All that to say; They're an interesting concept in theory, and given the right equipment could be a compelling alternative for natural rubber. But given what I saw and experienced in the process, I'd have a difficult time justifying paying essentially twice what JJ Short charges for one. Not saying you shouldn't, just sharing my experience.

      Nashville Typewriter tells the story of almost taking over the concept of Turboplaten.

      https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k0p2ha/turboplaten/ on 2025-04-16.

    2. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k0p2ha/turboplaten/

      Nashville Typewriter tells the story of almost taking over the concept of Turboplaten.

    1. https://akblongs.nl/

      Per Pelicram, AKB Longs does platen recovering for typewriters in Europe: Send an email to rollen@akblongs.nl Prices are about 40€ + VAT for portable platens + shipping both ways

    1. reply to u/No-Entertainer-7217 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1k45o89/typewriters_needing_new_ribbons/

      "Working but needs new ribbon" is almost always seller's code for I have no idea if it really works, but I'm going to try to sell you this machine for the price of a fully functioning machine that was just serviced by a professional shop despite the fact that I just took it out of grandpa's barn and I'm not sure if the mouse inside is dead or not. Also, I can't afford $10 to replace an old ribbon to truly participate in the charade of the price I'm going to try to fleece you with.

      Educate yourself a bit: <br /> - https://boffosocko.com/2025/03/29/first-time-typewriter-purchases-with-specific-recommendations-for-writers/ - buying typewriter ribbon: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1 and https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Ribbon - typewriter 101: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS

      If you want to tell people Tom Hanks taught you to change a typewriter ribbon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0. There are lots of other YouTube videos out there for specific machines as well as reviews of them.

      You can definitely test out a machine without ribbon, but if they're trying to charge you over $100 for a machine, it really should have fresh ribbon.

    1. In the US, you can get one hundred 4" mascara brushes for around $5. Eye Tees (cottton swabs with a firm point on one end and a flat tip on the other) cost roughly the same. You'll find them at most beauty supply stores or online. These get into tight spaces. Dipped in mineral spirits (or whichever solvent you've come to like), the brush gets the stuff loose and the Tee wipes it away. Blasting air helps as well. Works for me. Others will have other ideas.

      via u/scmowner

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jyr2hc/the_best_way_to_get_rid_of_all_this_gunk/

      Colloquial advice to use 4" mascara brushes as a replacement for a segment pick for cleaning out typewriters.

    1. The store offers maintenance and repair lessons to the public (including Philadelphia school students). The shop hosts poetry nights, open mics, comedy shows and other events. It even offers typewriters to public places such as bookstores, libraries and coffeeshops to bring the machines back into the collective consciousness.
    1. The company used to offer an optional dummy key that attached to the right side of the frame to rest your right pinky. They are hard to find nowdays. You could carve a small wood block to slip over the frame where it can provide a comfortable rest.
    1. Mathematics with Typewriters

      What you're suggesting is certainly doable, and was frequently done in it's day, but it isn't the sort of thing you want to subject yourself to while you're doing your Ph.D. (and probably not even if you're doing it as your stress-releiving hobby on the side.)

      I several decades of heavy math and engineering experience and really love typewriters. I even have a couple with Greek letters and other basic math glyphs available, but I wouldn't ever bother with typing out any sort of mathematical paper using a typewriter these days.

      Unless you're in a VERY specific area that doesn't require more than about 10 symbols, you're highly unlikely to be pleased with the result and it's going to require a huge amount of hand drawn symbols and be a pain to add in the graphs and illustrations. Even if you had a 60's+ Smith-Corona with a full set of math fonts using their Chageable Type functionality, you'd spend far more time trying to typeset your finished product than it would be worth.

      You can still find some typewritten textbooks from the 30s and 40s in math and even some typed lecture notes collections into the 1980s and they are all a miserable experience to read. As an example, there's a downloadable copy of Claude Shannon's master's thesis at MIT from 1940, arguably one of the most influential and consequential masters theses ever written, that only uses basic Boolean Algebra and it's just dreadful to read this way: https://dspace.mit.edu/handle/1721.1/11173 (Incidentally, a reasonable high schooler should be able to read and appreciate this thesis today, which shows you just how far things have come since the 1940s.)

      If you're heavily enough into math to be doing a Ph.D. you not only should be using TeX/LaTeX, but you'll be much, much, much happier with the output in the long run. It's also a professional skill any mathematician should have.

      As a professional aside, while typewriten mathematical texts may seem like a fun and quirky thing to do, there probably isn't an awful lot of audience that would appreciate them. Worse, most professional mathematicians would automatically take a typescript verison as the product of a quack and dismiss it out of hand.

      tl;dr in terms of The Godfather: Buy the typewriter, leave the thesis in LaTeX.


      a reply to u/Quaternion253 RE: Typing a maths PhD thesis using a typewriter at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1js3cs5/typing_a_maths_phd_thesis_using_a_typewriter/

  5. Mar 2025
    1. Old school repair guys used a lot of different stuff that's no longer available due to being... Not good. Ha. But naphta was one that's still widely available as white gas aka "coleman/camping fuel" Essentially naphtha with stabilizers to keep it from going bad. Mineral spirits works as well, but naphtha leaves less residue in my experience. Lacquer thinner is good for especially stubborn crap and cleaning slugs, but evaporates really fast and the fumes are no bueno. Alternatively; non toxic degreasing cleaners like simple green are usually my preferred method of cleaning up especially gross machines. Typically very safe on paint finishes and internals, just make sure to keep it off the decals. (It can and WILL erase them if it sits for more than 10 secs) Really though, nothing beats air and a long handled "paint" brush. My air compressor and blow out tube are some of my most cherished tools.
    1. UNDA-WUNDATYPEWRITER PADS, ADDING MACHINE PADS, DUPLICATOR MACHINE PADS AND RELATED OFFICE EQUIPMENT PADS Classification InformationInformation not providedMark DetailsSerial NumberNo 72129755

      Serial number 72129755 filed on 1961-10-12<br /> Registration number 744564 registered on 1963-01-29<br /> Expired 1987-09-01

      https://www.trademarkia.com/unda-wunda-72129755

    1. Standard Typewriters - Underwood 5

      Portable Typewriters - Hermes 3000 - Smith-Corona Clipper, Sterling, Silent, Silent Supers (5 Series) - Royal Quiet De Luxe - Olympia SM2, SM3, SM4 (Carriage shift)

      Ultra Portables - Not recommended

    2. Typewriters for Writers by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

    1. There's a few things going on here. Generally at SGW a gray Olympia SM3 in excellent "looking" condition like this one will go for $120-150. This one is also hiding a script typeface which will usually add another $110-150 of value, which would put it at the $300 mark. I'm sort of surprised that the original winner didn't actually pay for it at this price as that's likely what someone would honestly pay for one like this. (It's also possible that they forgot they won or didn't know and didn't pay for it in time too.)

      On today's listing, it's far, far more likely that someone wants it and either couldn't get it or pay for it now at the price that it was going to go for in a reasonable auction. They used a throw away accout to make an outrageous bid in hopes that in a week it'll be relisted and no one will notice the script typeface and it'll go for well under $200. (It won't.) This happens incredibly frequently for some of the less common typewriters. Usually it's machines with script or uncommon typefaces or uncommon character sets. Recent auctions for a gold plated Olympia SM3 and a Yellow Royal FP with a Gothic typeface come to mind. I've seen this also happen four or five times in a row before someone ultimately pays for a machine at some reasonable price.

      Honestly, SGW should have a policy that the second and third runners up for auctions that don't get paid for by winners should have the right of last refusal on auctions like this to prevent this sort of "gaming" of the system. If you search back in this sub, you'll see this topic coming up every couple of weeks with the same discussions over and over. The common wisdom is that a SGW auction isn't gone until the machine doesn't pop up anymore and actually "sold". And even then, if you wait a week or two, you'll usually see the exact machine pop up less than a month later on eBay being listed by the winner for an exorbitant amount (almost always without having done any additional cleaning or restoration work on it aside from maybe dusting it out.)

      Maybe we should add the tag #SGWgaming to all these conversations to make them easier to find?

      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jift5r/listing_on_the_right_was_a_month_ago_listing_on/

    1. The long, thin spring-loaded metal flap labeled the "paper conductor" on the SM3 and SM4 and labeled the "erasing table" on the SM2 are all the same part. They serve a few functions.

      They can be used for erasing mistakes certainly and help to keep dust and debris from going into the carriage and rollers.

      The "paper conductor" description sounds like a fun translation of something from German into English, but this part also prevents the paper which goes under the paper bail and forces it up and back to the paper table and the paper support. Presumably without it, a slightly curved piece of paper might be misrouted to go right back into the platen a second time as the paper advances.

      This sort of paper conductor/dust shield can also be found on some later 1960s+ Smith-Corona (SCM) machines. For example, see the Galaxie II which calls that part the erasure table.

    1. Baraniuk, Chris. “‘We Use Them Every Day’: In Some Parts of the US, the Clack of Typewriter Keys Can Still Be Heard.” BBC, March 22, 2025. https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20250321-the-people-who-still-use-typewriters.

    2. Banerjee goes on to admit candidly: "I developed what we call 'typewriter fever'."
    3. Jim Riegert, now in his 70s, remembers what it used to be like. "Back then, typewriters were pretty big. Typewriters and adding machines," he says, referring to desktop calculators. "It got really difficult in the typewriter business about 25 years ago," he says. "The internet was coming on and killing us, too." He runs Typewriters.com and, despite a decline in sales in recent decades, he still shifts four or five electric IBM typewriters every week.
    4. Paul Lundy, who runs Bremerton Office Machine Company, a typewriter repair business in Seattle.
    5. The factory is in Indonesia, he explains, and is run by a team from Nakajima, a typewriter manufacturing firm from Japan. Every year, Royal still sells around 20,000 new electric typewriters and more than double that amount of mechanical typewriters. The latter have become desirable partly as decoration – a librarian might buy one for a display at the front of their library, for instance, suggests Althoff. The mechanical and electric models Royal sells cost between $300 (£238) and $400 (£317).
    6. Todd Althoff is president of Royal, a US company that has been making typewriters since 1904. "We're going to continue," he insists. "Obviously [there is] not that much growth but it's sustainable and we keep the factory busy."
    7. In 2013, jaw-dropping details emerged about the extent of US intelligence agency surveillance programmes. This prompted the Russian Federal Guard Service (FSO) to revert to typewriters in an attempt to evade eavesdropping. German officials were also reported to be considering a similar move in 2014. (During the Cold War, Soviet spies actually developed techniques for snooping on electric typewriter activity, a form of "keylogging" technology – where the keystrokes inputted on a keyboard are captured. US operatives also reconstructed text from typewriter ribbons – meaning that even typewriters aren't completely safe.)
    8. another customer clutching an old typewriter will walk into Mike Marr's shop in Pawtucket, Rhode Island.
    1. Royal Typewriter Family by [[Joe Van Cleave]]

      In Typewriter Video Series Episode 321 Joe and Kevin explore the Royal Heritage, Empress and Safari.

      The Royal Futura and subsequent Royal Heritage were successor machines to the Royal Quiet De Luxe.

      The Empress and the Safari have a sort of Jetsons (1962-1963) aesthetic.


      Colloquial collection of typewriter fan names by Kevin and Joe:<br /> Cult of Hermes<br /> Royal Family<br /> Remington Rebels<br /> Smith-Corona Silent Superiors

      2025-03-21: edit (spelling)

    1. KoponewtPelicram ❤️ Slug Goblin 3 points4 points5 points 3 hours ago (3 children)Do you know what's the serial number on that? Some manufacturers had special models mostly for export purposes with extra keys. For example Royal 11 is a 10 with extra keys, Underwood No. 46 is a 5/3/6 with extra keys. Remington No. 9 is an 8 with extra keys.
    1. the lever for later machines was connected with a different sized pin, which makes finding donor machines challenging as pins from the more common newer machines won’t fit the older ones.
    2. It also interesting to note that loss of the carriage return lever is apparently a common problem on Studio 44 Series Is and Series IIs.
    3. Ole Kehlet of Kehlet Typewriter in Sacramento
    4. The Studio 44 was designed in 1952 by award-winning architect, industrial and graphic designer Marcello Nizzoli in collaboration with engineer Giuseppe Beccio.
    1. If you're a more serious writer, you're sure to find a smoother and better experience with a standard typewriter, but they're slightly larger and heavier (~30 pounds vs. ~15-22 pounds) than the portables. These are usually the ones I recommend if you're writing for several hours and have a dedicated space for your writing. Standards aren't as popular with most collectors, so they also tend to be less expensive.

      I really love my Royal KMG, HH, and FP and my Remington Standard and Remington 17 which are all serious machines. Here are some of the other more common standards for serious writers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3r3533cSZ38


      Reply to u/RetailThrowAway69 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1je4owq/new_typewriter_for_a_keyboard_warrior_of_20_years/

    1. Almost every portable and ultra portable typewriter made from the 1930s onward came with a case that the typewriter locked into. On almost all of these the top of the typewriter case was easily removeable from the base with a spring loaded locking mechanism of some sort. This allowed the user to sit in almost any chair and use the typewriter on their lap. The thin case bottoms prevent dirt and oil from soiling one's clothes.

      Beginning in the late 60s/early 70s some manufacturers began making plastic tops that clipped onto the typewriter bodies, but often these are more brittle and prone to breaking/shattering due to the type and age of the plastic. (I'm looking at you Remington Streamliners...)

      Our cat used to love "hiding" in the wooden case tops of my 1940s and 1950s Smith-Coronas (Clippers, Sterlings, Silents, Silent Supers).

      It's really only the larger and much heavier standard machines that didn't come with cases at all.

    1. Why don't sellers include type samples in their ads? I mean, it's the core function of a typewriter. It's the reason for this machine to exist in the first place. Are these people so ignorant that they only see the decorative aspect of typewriters? I've even seen machines in "perfect working order" for horrendous prices without a type sample. This is so ridiculous. How on earth could I find a machine with a nice typeface? How do I see if a machine is well aligned? And most of these strange people don't even bother to send a type sample on request, because "the ribbon is dry". Dang!

      reply to u/andrebartels1988 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jcsp6t/rant_over_online_sellers/

      No, they're either ignorant or actively trying to hide the fact that their machine was bought for $5 at a yard sale and they're trying to match the pricing of pro shops that have cleaned, oiled, adjusted and repaired a machine which far exceeds the misery they're selling because they have absolutely no idea what goes into a good machine.

      People doing the work to show type samples and video of their machines are usually far, far more legitimate. These people are also going to give you $2 of new ribbon for free with purchase.

      Without a type sample or video, all but the rarest machines aren't worth more than $20.

    1. I found on etsy: TheModernTypewriter that sells ribbons. Are they any good?

      I've never used them. They're probably alright. Looks like they're specializing in engraved spools more than anything. My guess is that they're buying ribbon in bulk from Baco or Fine Line and passing along the cost and adding some additional profit.

      Here's typical bulk pricing:

      nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard cotton ribbon $0.25/yard If you can get a spool's worth of nylon ribbon (16 yards) for about $1.50 to $3, do you really want to pay $8 or more plus shipping? If I'm going to do this (usually for small quantities of custom colored ribbon), I'm going to buy it from a local shop to help support them and keep them open.

      There are obviously lots of options you can choose from, ultimately you'll do what works best/quickest/cheapest for you.

    1. Type Shop, EP. 20: Ribbon Colors by [[Typewriter Chicago]]

      blue/pink is an excellent color combination as is the blue/green. blue/purple isn't as strong a differentiated color combination as one might hope.

      Typewriter Chicago used to carry orange, but doesn't any longer. Maybe again in the future?

    1. Tested 100s of heavy desk typewriters, Here is the top 5 revealed. by [[Mr & Mrs Vintage Typewriters]]

      Top Five Standard Typewriters:<br /> - Imperial 55 - Imperial 70 (after this they went to cheaper plastic parts); removable carriage, swappable typefaces; removeable core - Hermes Ambassador - removable carriage - Underwood Standards, esp. 5 - Royal 10 (carriage shift); (and subsequent incarnations like the KH, KMM, KMG, HH, FP) - Olympia SG1 (the "crown jewel" of desktop typewriters)

      Also rans: - Olivetti Lexicon, Olivetti Graphica - Contintental m40 & m20 - Mercedes

    1. Cleaning with Air Compressors (testing portable air compressors) by [[Just My Typewriter]]

      Sarah Everett uses: - Porter Cable portable air compressor (loud, high powered) - Uses smaller USB chargeable one for smaller jobs: PeroBuno mini car vacuum and compressor with attachments

    1. reply to u/bethcano at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1j3z646/whats_a_fair_price_these_days_for_a_hermes_3000/

      In the US I've been seeing them go for around $250 based only on photos without any additional information about whether they work or other condition.

      Platforms like eBay and ShopGoodwill.com will allow you to search for actual sales (see the advanced settings) and this will give you a much better picture of what the prices are versus people listing them for several hundred more (usually to match the prices of professional shops that are listing theirs in cleaned, oiled, and adjusted condition). (Remember when shopping: Condition is king!)

      See:

      Keep in mind that prices may be dramatically different in your country based on how ubiquitous they were when they were originally manufactured.

      Expect to add $150-200+ for script or rarer typefaces, and another \~$150 if the platen has been recovered.

      $550 would not be uncommon if purchasing a pica or elite Hermes 3000 with a standard typeface in generally good cosmetic shape that's been professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted by a shop.