1,225 Matching Annotations
  1. Last 7 days
    1. Standard Typewriter Ribbon Notes for the US:

      Here's a handful of places: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1 I've really liked ribbons from either Baco or Fine Line, but you can also get them from your local repair shop, who'll appreciate the business more than Amazon will, and it'll help keep them around for when you may need a full overhaul.

      You'll want the Universal spools of 2" in diameter with 1/2" wide ribbon (in Nylon, Silk, or Cotton), but honestly, if you've got original metal spools on your machine, those usually work best, so spool your new ribbon from the cheap plastic spools onto your originals.

      Reply to u/PatriotMike1 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nya3bb/looking_for_ribbon_for_this_typewriter/

    1. reply to u/Ag_2402 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nwl0jb/brother_charger_11/

      Remove the ribbon and compare what's happening bilaterally. Use the mirror symmetry of the two sides and the ribbon reverse functionality to puzzle out what's wrong. Is something stuck? Broken? Bent? Missing? Comparing the broken side to the working side should help to solve the puzzle.

      Look closely at the mechanics of what's going on. Are the gears turning at all? Is there a pawl that holds the forward motion properly? Does something need to be bent back into place? Is there a missing spring perhaps?

      Beyond this doing searches for ribbon advancement on YouTube (especially Phoenix Typewriter's channel) may unearth some illustrative help.

      Some of the advice here may be helpful: https://typewriterdatabase.com/RD-Typewriter-Tips.index.manual

    1. Some of the letters are consistently struggling to print properly, like a, w, q, etc. I've cleaned the typebar section multiple times which seemed to help initially but it continues to be an issue, I'm not sure what could cause only certain letters to print incorrectly.

      reply to u/peachaphrodite at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nwu77s/sears_scholar_specific_letters_are_faint/

      Issue with light imprints on a, w, q, etc.

      Are you a touch typist or a two finger hunt-and-peck typist?

      Solely based on the letters, I'll guess there's nothing wrong with the machine and that you're a newer touch typist whose two weakest fingers on your non-dominant hand just need some exercise to get a better imprint. I'd guess the same happens to your z and x as well, but you use them less. Practice typing about your "qwaze axes and saws" a few times a day for a week to improve your finger strength and technique.

      If you're a hunt-and-peck person, then your typebars may need some gentle forming/fine adjustment using some specialist tools to give better imprints. Those letters on the ends of the segment more often go out of alignment than others. If this is the case, try: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

  2. Sep 2025
    1. Nakajima Daisywheel Typewriter Part 2 - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]<br /> accessed on 2025-09-27T15:15:18

      The Nakamima WPT-150 is manufactured by Mitsunami Asia(S)Pte Ltd. in Indonesia and is sold in other countries as the model AX-150, which may help in finding supplies, print wheels, etc. for it.

      nadist.com has repair manuals and parts lists as well as specifications

      They sell six different models of which the WPT-150 is the least expensive.

      Joe is a little more cognizant of the typing delay time of the Brother and it's seemingly non-existent for the Nakajima.

      JVC tested the words per minute speed for the Nakajima using polar opposite characters on the daisy wheel.

    1. reply to u/GrandRevolutionary99 at https://reddit.com/r/stationery/comments/1nrkuqf/i_need_help_to_create_my_own_letterhead_for_my/

      Typewriter enthusiasts often use 100% cotton or high linen content papers with weights in the 32 pound range for 8.5x11. This gives you some nice tactile feel, but will also feed into most typewriters, even with a solid backing sheet. If you want to do thicker card stocks, then you might opt for a bigger standard typewriter which generally have larger diameter platens and more easily handle much thicker paper (they were meant for doing carbon packs up up to 10 sheets or more.)

      When it comes to the look of your letters, you can generally choose between silk (clean, crisp imprints), nylon (almost as clean as silk, but with more "grain"), and cotton typewriter ribbon (which leaves a very grainy/old timey and "typewriter-y" imprint). Comparisons here.

      I've got a small fleet of typewriters and prefer to use the pica sizes for personal correspondence. I also tend toward the cursive or Vogue typefaces for those as well.

      In the US, a lot of stationers have pre-cut paper and envelopes for 6-3/8" x 8-1/2" paper which is a good size sheet for quick notes. My typewriter pen pal Tom Hanks' most recent letter to me was on a custom page of 7.125 x 10.25" and had space for design at the top and bottom with some reasonable space in the middle. If you do custom designs, be sure to order a box or two of plain stock to use as second, third, etc. pages behind your first page if you tend to write over your first page.

      Naturally custom designing your own can be fun as well, but get a few samples of the size and weight you want and try them out before ordering in quantity.

      Lenore Fenton can give you tips on making carbon copies of your letters if you want to keep them for your own files while sending out the originals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUJfCfqgsX0

      Searching r/typewriters for stationery, letterhead, paper, etc. might give you some ideas as well.

    1. The buyer pays, select USPS as the Shipping method, and then uses Pirateship to actually purchase the label from USPS or UPS. This provides a small upside on shipping, which helps cover the high packing costs. Shipping typewriters is just inherently expensive, and if you pay retail, you are going to take a bath every time. Also, you need to buy supplies in bulk from a commercial supplier. Had to learn this the hard way after eBay charged someone $40 for shipping, and when I got to FedEx it was 90+the like 25 I spent on retail shipping supplies. Now have shipping supplies down to about $12 a machine and never have a negative on shipping costs.
    2. reply to u/firefox2061 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nqpvbk/i_ended_up_with_a_1957_olympia_sm3_trying_to_sell/

      Take a close look at the online shops that are selling restored machines to see how they're signaling cleaned and restored machines. Professional photos, videos, and type samples will help significantly. The market picks up closer to the holidays and will help you realize greater value.

      As you surely know, the bottom of the market for these in unknown condition and potentially shaky/iffy shipping is $120 and professionally cleaned, oiled, and adjusted is in the $550 range (without a new platen).

      Shops actively servicing machines and putting on new platens are going to quote in the range of $150-180 for the roughly $100 recovering + their labor. It's rare in the market that buyers truly appreciate the value of a new platen. (Most don't even appreciate the value of a serviced typewriter either.) You're much likelier to get someone paying better rates when they can see and test the machine in person to appreciate how clean and well aligned it is.

      You statement about the typeface is off (presuming I found the right listing) as this is very definitely not a Congress face. Try again using: https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/23/1964-nomda-blue-book-olympia-font-styles/

      You should also specifically mention that you've replaced the rubber body gaskets that commonly have compression problems on these SM3s.

      Including a facsimile copy of the manual may also be helpful: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      See also: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/23/typewriter-repair-costs-and-valuation-professional-shops-versus-collectors-versus-first-time-buyers/

    1. RE: poor type quality on the "!" via u/TheGuyAtThePlace265 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1no1whe/poor_definition_on/

      Lots of things can cause this in rough order, check:

      Clean the slugs

      Ribbon can have an effect. Silk is generally crisper than nylon which is crisper than cotton.

      The paper can have an effect depending on the thickness and general grain.

      Typing technique can play a part. Often you'll see issues including ghosting and other problems, particularly if you bottom out a key while typing.

      Are you using a backing sheet?

      Is your platen rock hard or has it been re-covered?

      Is your ring and cylinder adjustment properly done?

      The most frequently abused slugs are often the ones at the the ends of the segment and 1/! definitely qualifies. Sometimes a small bit of forming can clear things up.

    1. reply to u/todddiskin at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nlodr0/how_do_you_use_your_machines/

      Some various recent uses:

      • I've got writing projects sitting in two different machines.
      • I use one on my primary desk for typing up notes on index cards, recipes, my commonplace "book", letters, and other personal correspondence.
      • I use a few of my portables on the porch in the mornings/evenings for journaling.
      • One machine in the hallway is for impromptu ideas and poetry and an occasional bit of typewriter art.
      • One machine near the kitchen is always gamed up for adding to the ever-growing shopping list.
      • I'll often get one out for scoring baseball games.
      • Participating in One Typed Page and One Typed Quote
      • Typing up notes in zoom calls - I've got a camera mount over a Royal KMG that has its own Zoom account so people can watch the notes typed in real time.
      • Labels for folders, index card dividers, and sticky labels.
      • Addressing envelopes.
      • Writing out checks.
      • Typecasting
      • Hiding a flask or two of bourbon (the Fold-A-Matic Remingtons are great for this)
      • Supplementing the nose of my bourbon and whisky collection.

      At the end of the day though, unless you're Paul Sheldon, typewriters are unitaskers and are designed to do one thing well: put text on paper. All the rest are just variations on the theme. 😁🤪☠️

      see also: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/search/?q=typewriter+uses

    1. reply to u/Educational-Big-7383 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nkb6ga/why_olympia/

      It probably doesn't hurt that Olympia was manufacturing some of the best machines at the height of typewriter manufacturing including the use of great materials (strength, durability), design, and general craftsmanship in the 20th century.

      Many of these also tended to be late models which were sold in cases, so they tend to be younger, cleaner, and in much nicer condition that the majority of other typewriters out there, and condition really matters a lot when attempting to compare models. As an extreme, but illustrative comparison, a 1930s Royal portable that was pounded out and left in a barn isn't going to hold a candle to an SM3 that was lightly used and lovingly kept in a closet.

    1. reply to u/BudgetSprinkles3689 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nkbw85/serial_number_location/

      What is the purpose of a serial number? What does it do for you? There are serial numbers on things all around you; do you know where all of those are? The VIN number on your vehicle maybe?

      People now are only using them to approximate manufacturing dates for fun, but they were generally only used by the factory or repair people to identify specific machines and/or tie issues after manufacture back to production line problems. Do they need to be easily accessed or visible for these purposes? The people who really need them generally know exactly where they are and how to find them.

      Sometimes they're used to create inventories for owners or in cases of theft, but these generally aren't common uses that need high visibility. Because they can be removed or defaced, should they be put in easily findable and accessible places?

      Generally they're stamped in at the factory during production on integral parts of the machine during assembly. As a result, they can often be hidden or covered up by parts (especially exterior panels and body styling) added later. If it's on an exterior, easy-to-remove part, what good is it?

      If it helps, here's a diagram of some common locations:

      img

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ngt1u4/questions_about_going_into_the_typewriter_business/

      Based on your original post, I thought you might have been further along with resources, but this makes me wonder a bit, so I'll add some materials for you. Start here: https://boffosocko.com/2024/10/24/learning-typewriter-maintenance-and-repair

      Repair manuals:

      Other resources: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Be sure to register for an account on the typewriterdatabase.com as that will give you access to more material and research than a non-logged in user.

      There are a few "young" folx out there who have recently done what you're considering, and knowing a few of them may help. Reach out if you feel comfortable doing so:

      Consider a trip to QWERTY Fest which is coming up soon.

      Good Luck

    1. It took years to acquire a Model O at a price I could afford. It's my dream machine. The other 8 or 9 machines are now being donated to Goodwill, where most came from. I only need one machine and this is it.

      quote of u/RickBuxton at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1nfg9tt/im_new_but_obssessed/

      Example of someone who likely should have gone to a typewriter shop and bought a well-adjusted and clean typewriter from the start and it would have saved them time, effort, and money.

      8 machines * $30 per machine = $240 plus time, energy, travel, shipping, etc.

    1. New ribbons should look wet and get your fingers a bit inky when you touch them, but shouldn't be dripping ink. I've certainly bought new ribbon that was on the dry side and needed to return it. https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      Beyond this, your machine may need a ring and cylinder adjustment. Check YouTube for this. Most platens now are typically rock hard and have shrunken a bit, so recovering the platen is always helpful. You can use a backing sheet or two as a stopgap if necessary, but a new platen and proper adjustment will make a world of difference.

      reply to u/asdrubalino99 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n7c1x1/faded_ink_help/

    1. Collectability in typewriters is different for almost everyone. I like mid-century standards, some only like pre-1900 machines, some red typewriters, some toy typewriters, some less common typefaces, and still others prefer plastic 70s portables. Some treat them like Pokémon and "gotta catch them all".

      Typewriters as a whole are all "collectibles"... What is your specific definition and criteria (value, rarity, popularity, etc.)?

      In aggregate, knowledgeable pricing may help you determine the most collectible ranking them by most expensive. But by this ranking there aren't many of us who can buy even a single Sholes and Glidden or collect the typewriters of famous authors like Steve Soboroff.

      ETC Magazine did a rarity versus desirability survey a while back of some serious collectors: https://www.antikeychop.com/mostwantedtypewriters

      Interestingly, on this list you won't find many of the most collected typewriters out there as ranked by general "popularity" including machines like the Hermes 3000 or the Olympia SM3.

      The Typewriter Database also has some data (albeit skewed) of the most "popular" machines ranked based on how many examples have been uploaded by collectors: https://typewriterdatabase.com/popular.0.typewriter-models

      All these rankings are highly subjective though, so, again, you should figure out what's most interesting to you and create your collection from there. Figuring this out is half the fun of doing this as a hobby.

      reply to u/WRSD605 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n6nhts/remington_16/

    1. Both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line offer black/red bichrome ribbon in most of these materials for an incredibly reasonable price:

      • nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard
      • silk ribbon $0.33 to $0.40/yard
      • cotton ribbon $0.25/yard

      If you're going to buy even 3-6 spools of ribbon at individual prices of $9-20 per spool, you may as well make the investment in a half or full reel of inked typewriter ribbon and save yourself a lot of hassle. This will bring your spool of ribbon price down into the $2-4 range.

      Ribbons Unlimited is great, but their prices on most ribbon is comparatively really high because part of what they're selling you is the information about which spools will fit your machine. This is fine if you get a typewriter without spools at all, but if you've got original spools, you can get really great ribbon for a fraction of the price and spool it onto your extant spools.


      reply to https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1n58ivm/working_on_my_first_restoration_royal_arrow/

  3. Aug 2025
    1. Royal Century - Silver Seiko Typewriter Review - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]]<br /> accessed on 2025-08-28T11:37:07

      Broadly a review of the Royal Century made by Silver-Seiko, but he also compares the performance with the Hermes Rocket/Baby and the Smith-Corona Skyriter, which he feels aren't as solid as the Century despite their lighter weight and portability.

    1. Avoiding Internal Typewriter Distractions - YouTube<br /> by [[Joe Van Cleave]] <br /> accessed on 2025-08-28T11:08:56

      Typewriter distractions<br /> - troublesome mechanical issues<br /> - need for finger strength - poor imprint

      Well-tuned standard typewriters are excellent for minimizing distractions, especially internal ones.

      Joe Van Cleave thinks the 5TE Smith-Corona electric typewriters are the best of their class.

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mp43lf/a_sticky_shift_issue_olympia_sm9/

      Over time, dust and oil can clog up in the bearing and along the track that the segment glides up and down on causing this sort of issue. You can flush it out with mineral spirits (or something similar) while you actuate the shift key to remedy the issue. When you're done, then add back a drop of light (sewing) machine oil.

      While you're at it, most basket shift machines load them with large springs to assist with the weight and to help the return. They're typically attached to metal brackets that can be easily formed with pliers to either increase or decrease the force as necessary to suit your touch and preferred response. (YouTube videos may help here if necessary.)

      If that doesn't remedy it, then take the hood off and look closely at the mechanism to see if something is physically impeding it.

    1. Reply to Joe Van Cleave at https://typewriterdatabase.com/show.21270.typewriter

      It's probably a subtle difference, but is this machine provide the standard 6 lines per vertical inch or due to the taller ascenders/descenders is it a 4 lines per vertical inch machine?

      If you need a "name" for this machine, I might suggest "Satchmo". In doing some research on Louis Armstrong's 5 series Smith Corona, I'm pretty sure his 5 series also had this same vertical script. None of the features on any of the photos I could find of his machine are subtle enough to distinguish which particular model of Smith-Corona he was using. If we find a good direct photo of the machine itself, I'm sure I could puzzle out which version he used. By 1955 he had at least one machine with a script face (see: https://www.louisarmstronghouse.org/virtual-exhibits/my-fifty-fifth-birthday-celebration-happy-birthday-louis-armstrong/). It doesn't appear to be Smith-Corona's common Script (Artistic) No. 75 , but more like Script No. 46. Based on a version of this photo (https://www.usatoday.com/gcdn/presto/2019/07/15/USAT/d815dddc-c0b8-4c54-b9b5-719886d4a0cc-02_Armstrong_Louis_16.jpg?width=1292&height=1320&fit=crop&format=pjpg&auto=webp) it would seem that it's the Smith-Corona that was the script machine (as opposed to his earlier Remington).

      According to Ted Munk's post on the S-C Vertical script: "Smith Corona is offering the [vertical] typeface as 'Script No. 46', 10 Pitch by 1954."

      Joe's video of his 1952 Smith-Corona this with the same vertical script https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH6mwmoN_LI

      See also: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mo4wbg/what_typewriter/

      Somewhat interesting that Louis Armstrong played cornet, wrote on a Smith-Corona, and lived in the Corona neighborhood of Queens, NY.

    1. https://typecast.munk.org/2011/04/23/1964-nomda-blue-book-olympia-font-styles/

      The following were the available Olympia type sizes as listed in the 1964 NOMDA Blue Book:

      • 10 pitch (2.6 m/m) pica
      • 11 pitch (2.3 m/m) elite
      • 12 pitch (2.1 m/m) elite
      • 17 pitch (1.5 m/m, calculated)

      Not in the NOMDA Blue Book, but found in the wild on a 1971 Olympia SG-3: - 6 pitch (4.2 m/m) with typeface: Basic Writing No. 67

  4. www.reddit.com www.reddit.com
    1. Almost every day here there's at least one person asking where they can find new ribbon.

      There is a seemingly a lot of talk here and on the web about re-inking typewriter ribbon, but the majority of it stems from the fact that people don't see new ribbon in the wild and assume that it isn't made anymore and thus the only way to type is to re-ink it. While it can be done it's a lot of work and effort with modest results and tends to be far more expensive and messy than it's worth in the end. Beyond this, it takes some research to find appropriate types of ink. You can also find advice about re-wetting old ribbon with WD-40 to "rejuvenate" it, but that process is also a lot of work and mess with poor results. Unless you really have to, I don't recommend reinking or rejuvenating.

      Fortunately new typewriter ribbon is easily obtainable and is very inexpensive and easy enough to spool onto your already existing spools after you've removed the old ribbon. Even Tom Hanks has a video about putting ribbon on your typewriter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBbsNKaVAB0 Scores of similar videos exist covering various makes and models of typewriter, but the process doesn't have a lot of variability.

      Both Baco Ribbon and Fine Line offer black/red bichrome ribbon in most of these materials for a very reasonable price per yard, in the range of:

      • nylon ribbon $0.10 - $0.15/yard
      • silk ribobn $0.33 to $0.40/yard
      • cotton ribbon $0.25/yard

      Most machines with 2 inch diameter spools will take from 18-22 yards of ribbon while ultra-portables with smaller spools will do 12-16 yards.

      If you're going to buy even 3-6 spools of ribbon at individual prices of $9-20 per spool, you may as well make the investment in a half or full reel of inked typewriter ribbon and save yourself some expense.

      Other purveyors exist including those listed at: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-faq.html#q1

      If you really must, search Amazon or Etsy for smaller shops with larger mark ups on typewriter ribbon.


      reply to u/Admirable_Duckwalk https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mj5qdg/ink/

    1. Portable Typewriters Today - February 2015<br /> by [[Will Davis]] on 2015-02-10<br /> accessed on 2025-08-05T16:35:48

    1. For installing ribbon on almost all machines, it's recommended you set the ribbon selector to the "red" position and then simultaneously press the H and G keys so that they meet in the middle and temporarily "jam" in the up position. This holds the ribbon vibrator in its highest position making the vibrator easier to access and thread.

      Reading manuals for your particular machine can help with respect to whether the ribbon should come off the front or the back of the spool: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html


      Reply to u/Smurf404OP at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mifdaw/why_is_it_so_damn_hard_to_thread_ribbon_through/

    1. Start here: https://typewriterdatabase.com/imperial.76.typewriter-serial-number-database Try to identify your particular model from the links at the bottom of the page to see specific examples. You can look through individual galleries to find a serial number and that may allow you to find the range of serial numbers made in particular years to narrow down your year. Looks like it's a "standard" from the late 30s or 1940s, possibly an Imperial 50.

      Next find a manual (or something close): https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Learn how they were used: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Consider whether it will be cheaper/easier to have someone service it for you or to do it yourself: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/23/typewriter-repair-costs-and-valuation-professional-shops-versus-collectors-versus-first-time-buyers/

      Go crazy: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/

      Good luck!

      reply to u/Pleasant-Ad9620 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgg7xv/helping_dating_this_imperial_typewriter/

    1. Use and maintenance

      The use and maintenance details you might be looking for: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

      Typewriter Manuals

      In case you need a manual: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html Your specific manual may be helpful for the tiny specifics like where the carriage lock is or how to properly thread your ribbon, but all the "good" stuff may be in much older manuals for other machines, especially in the 1920s by which time most typewriter technology and features were roughly standardized. Later manuals became less dense as it was assumed that newer users had friends/family/teachers to show them the "missing manual" portions for how to use them.

      Typewriter repair

      If you need to or decide to (for fun) go down the repair rabbit hole: https://boffosocko.com/2024/10/24/learning-typewriter-maintenance-and-repair/

      from reply to u/FarInsect3003 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mggp8g/olivetti_lettera_32_uppercase_smudge/

    1. reply to u/MirageAnne at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgmwkq/remington_rand_17/

      There are two general types of "sticky keys": 1. sticky going up 2. sticky coming down

      Sticky going up

      For stickiness slowing down the typebar (on the way up or down), it's likely that you've got oil, dirt, dust, or other sludge in the segment of your machine. You'll want to flush out your segment with some solvent and potentially blow things out with compressed air to remove the source of the friction.

      While you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!

      It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.

      When you're done, it's common wisdom that one should NOT oil the segment.

      Sticky going down

      If your typebar(s) are sticking due to friction at the typing point, then they need some gentle forming to the right or the left to prevent them from rubbing on the typing point so that they can fall back down to the type rest. The two videos below will help describe and demonstrate the symptoms as well as the repair. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrlt6VyC8D0&t=485s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arspyq1w4Iw

      Other considerations

      It's much less common, but once everything is clean and properly aligned, if you're still seeing sluggishness, it may be the case that the spring on the individual key has broken or become disconnected which prevents it from returning back to the type rest.

    1. Earlier this morning, I said to someone who was worried about typing topless:

      You'll be joining a log line of typists, including Wood Allen, who liked to type "naked" or "topless".

      I've even seen a few typewriter shops selling typewriters without the external shells. I'd a lot harder to keep them dust free, but it can certainly be fun. It's an fun, easy, and fascinating way to sell off a machine that's missing some screws or has dented/damaged panels.

      reply to u/stiff_peach at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mf2seo/typing_without_panels/

    1. Godrej & Boyce's Milind Dukle tells the Business Standard: "From the early 2000 onwards, computers started dominating. All the manufacturers of office typewriters stopped production, except us. Till 2009, we used to produce 10,000 to 12,000 machines a year. "We stopped production in 2009 and were the last company in the world to manufacture office typewriters. Currently, the company has only 500 machines left. The machines are of Godrej Prima, the last typewriter brand from our company, and will be sold at a maximum retail price of Rs 12,000."

      The World's Last Typewriter Factory Closes in India - Business Insider<br /> by [[Gus Lubin]] for Business Insider accessed on 2025-08-01T09:26:55

      Godrej & Boyce manufactured typewriters to 2009 and were selling off their final machines in 2011.

    1. The final typewriter manufacturers still out there: - Shanghai Weilv Mechanism Company (you really don't want one: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/09/the-typewriter-you-probably-dont-want-to-buy/)<br /> - Nakajima still puts out daisy wheel word processors - Swintec still makes machines, but primarily clear bodied ones for prisons

      The last of the serious manual typewriter manufacturers included: - Brother, who stopped manufacturing machines in Wrexham, Wales in 2012 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-20413234 - Godrej Typewriter quit manufacturing in 2009 and was finishing out the last of their stock in 2011 https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/world-s-last-typewriter-plant-stops-production-1.1090626

      Reply to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1meum7j/new_typewriters/

  5. Jul 2025
    1. reply to u/Impossible-Dance7442 at tk

      Looks like a portable 4 bank B model Underwood from 1926 (see also: https://typewriterdatabase.com/underwood.4.typewriter-serial-number-database).

      Appears to be in reasonable cosmetic condition with good decals, but the internal condition is going to be the biggest determinant of value. In unknown condition they sell regularly for $20-50 in online auctions, but cleaned, oiled, and adjusted from a professional repair shop they might go as high as $400, or perhaps $550 if you've had the rubber on the platen re-covered. Thinking that fair market for this in even the most pristine condition is $800 is pure folly unless it was used by someone famous. (The lack of interest from antique shops is a solid indicator here.) It assuredly is not going to make you rich, unless you bought the house from a famous author.

      You might find some useful advice from some of the articles at: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/#Typewriter%20Market They're written with first time buyers in mind, but you could also view them from the first time seller perspective.

      A local repair shop might give you a few bones for it and give it a new life: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-repair.html

      You could also donate it to a local thrift shop.

      Your best bet for time and money invested though, is to gift it to a kid or teenager you know who's interested in writing, perhaps as a birthday present along with a copy of either: (1) Polt, R. The Typewriter Revolution: A Typist’s Companion for the 21st Century, 1st ed.; Countryman Press: Woodstock, VT, 2015. (2) Flint, W. D. The Distraction-Free First Draft; One Idea Press, 2023.

      Good luck with it.

      Alternate version of this with heirloom push is also at: https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mbf185/comment/n5mdydi/

    1. When I started out back in 2014, I would print out artworks by Paul Smith and study them under a magnifying glass to better understand how he tackled certain subjects or material textures, be it fabrics, water, grass, reflections and along the way, I have developed my own techniques as well.
    2. Paul Smith, an American artist who lived with cerebral palsy and created extraordinary artworks using a typewriter. As a child, Paul was given a typewriter by his parents. Because of his condition, he couldn’t hold pens or pencils, and like any parent, they wanted to help him learn to write. The mechanical control of a typewriter not only allowed him to do that with precision, but also unlocked a way for him to express himself artistically.
    1. reply to u/VampySiren on https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m7yz1m/silveretti_ribbon_vibrator_getting_stuck_in/

      On most machines, the ribbon vibrator is meant to slide up and down freely and it typically returns with just gravity. 9 times out of 10 the reason that the vibrator doesn't go back down because it's either dirty/gummy or has been slightly bent. Put a few drops of mineral spirits or similar degreaser on it and give it a light scrub with a toothbrush. If it doesn't move freely after a round or two of this, is it bent and hanging on something? If so, bend it so that it moves freely.

      The other 1 of 10 times, it's the ribbon that's been installed correctly.

    1. reply to u/HomosexualTypewriter at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m5qd7e/how_to_remove_stuckon_felt/

      How to remove stuck-on felt?

      Generally I've dusted the worst off into the trash and then used a mild soap and soft bristle brush to clean the remainder. You won't get 100%, but it's not visible and doesn't affect performance, so I don't worry about remaining residue. You could try light solvents that won't affect the paint too much or attempt some light sanding. Another alternate is to replace the old foam with new felt and you won't see anything.

      I just pulled out my '57 FP that has foam with a black, molasses-like adhesive to hold it on. Goo Gone works incredibly well at removing that adhesive and any residual foam without damaging the paint. I put a small patch of Goo Gone soaked paper towel on top of the adhesive smudge to let it soak for a few minutes and then was able to relatively easily remove all of the adhesive without any issues. A pass or two removed it pretty quickly.

      My later '61 FP has the somewhat more standard industrial felt which was in reasonable condition, so I've left it on and not tested that.

      Honestly, unless it's really thick or cumbersome and you're replacing it with felt, simply gluing over the original is probably your bet course of action.

    1. Though Swintec is profitable, it has slimmed down to about 10 employees from about 85 employees, Mr. Michael says. He says the company sold "thousands and thousands" of typewriters at the peak but declined to be specific. Swintec still sells about 3,000 to 5,000 typewriters a year, to customers including universities, senior centers and state and federal prisons.
    1. you can adjust the strike of individual typebars by either filing or peening the ring-stop tab, file to hit harder & peen to lighten it. for your situation, you will want to file the ring-stop down a bit; make sure to tilt the machine up(or on its side) so the debris created doesn’t fall down into the pivot segment, then blow the area out with compressed air. if you go to Hobby Lobby or an RC model shop, you should be able to get a cheap set of needle files which will do the job; follow up with 600-800 grit sandpaper to remove burrs

      via u/TypewriterJustice at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m1w6s2/tune_up_key_strokes/n42glpz/

    2. roller pliers are for adjusting the height of individual letters(increasing the arc to lower & decreasing arc to raise, which in extreme case can then require adjustment of the slug to put it ‘square’ again relative to the platen) adjusting the strike for most models is done by either filing or peening the ring-stop tab near the base of the typebar(as is the case for OP’s smith corona)

      via u/TypewriterJustice https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m1w6s2/tune_up_key_strokes/

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m4sz08/difference_in_cases_between_1954_and_1956_sm3s/

      Small differences in typewriter cases for the Olympia SM3: - Older versions (circa 1954) were simply painted inside and didn't have the flocking - Older versions also had Bakelite handles rather than the flexible plastic strap - Older versions also didn't have the plastic curved feet molded into the (typewriter half of the) bottom of the case.

    1. in olden timey days, they taught more or less like this: hyphenate between syllables, in general, more than half the word should be on the first line. If the bell has gone off, then generally don’t start a long word. After the bell, there is room for 7, or 6 plus a hyphen. If your word is longer than that, save it for the next line. Use the margin release sparingly. For example, you might need a comma after the last word. ,

      via u/LycO-145b2 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m2vc8m/rules_for_endofline_hyphens/n3soefg/

    2. Rules for end-of-line hyphens? by u/Heavyduty35

      Back in the heyday of typewriters in the office books like Dougherty's Instant Spelling Dictionary were kept on the desks of most typists and secretaries for looking up words for hyphenating. Standard dictionaries also provide this functionality, but obviously tend to be 10x the length and size and take longer to look up words, so for doing this at greater speed, these spelling books were common tools in the office.

      See: https://archive.org/details/texts?tab=collection&query=instant+spelling+dictionary

    1. https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lu9173/turns_out_mineral_spirits_are_illegal_in/

      Traditional mineral spirits are illegal in some states in the US including California. As an alternative odorless mineral spirits are low VOC, safer, and a solid alternative. Typewriter shops like Typewriter Justice in Keller, TX recommend it. Some who have access to cheaper mineral spirits still prefer the odorless version for the reduced residual smell.

      Nashville Typewriter, another shop, recommends camping fuel (aka white gas) which is mostly naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is primarily naphtha, but is much more expensive. In Germany, it goes under the names of Testbenzin or Reinigungsbenzin.

      Jennifer Colombo, a repair person of Colombo Collection suggests linseed oil to clean and protect metal surfaces and create a barrier against rust and oxidation.

    1. So I’m sitting here drinking my tea about to get dressed and go pick up my latest typewriter; already got the heads up she’s arrived. Savouring the moment a little. I paid five dollars for her, no one else bid. And she does loOk kind of rough; rust spots everywhere, perhaps a dent in the top cover, dirty and grimy and probably smells like an old basement. But you know; I felt a little sorry for her. Although not top of the line she is a reputable model, as far as british typewriters go anyway. And I was sort of impressed by her slightly more extravagant sister. Wondering how bad can it really be? Some elbow grease, isopropyl, and Fulgentin will sort her out, surely? Worrying about did she survive the journey, did they pack her properly, or will she turn out to be a mangled pile of rusty parts when I open the box? So many questions. And I am wondering is this maybe the best part? But no - the best part is opening the case for the first time and seeing her in the flesh; or steel, I suppose, for the first time. That is the a moment I cherish. Better get going. See you in a bit, little darling! <3

      https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1m18qlk/anticipation/

      A lovely little piece on the anticipation of a new typewriter by collector u/IrmaBecx.

    1. reply to u/FriendlyAd4234 at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cn004l/olympia_sg1_dust_cover/

      Other than the traditional fabric-like dust covers, you might consider doing a thicker plastic/acrylic cover, particularly if you've got several machines and are using them for display purposes. I live in Los Angeles and there are half a dozen places that do this sort of custom work all the time for very reasonable rates. Searching for "plastic fabricator memoriabilia case" along with variations of plastics (acrylic, lucite, plexiglass) should get you what you want locally. (Here's a few examples I've used in Los Angeles before to give you an idea: https://solterplastics.com/, https://www.plasticfactoryinc.com/, https://www.customacrylicproducts.com/, https://plexidisplays.com/). Search for something similar in your area for easier communication and pick up/shipping.

      If you search around for companies that make plastic displays, particularly for memorabilia (baseball bats, baseball cards, etc.), you can have them design and make a custom sized clear plastic box/enclosure that will keep the dust and dirt out, but still allow you to see the machine inside.

    1. How to display Typewriters properly?

      You can certainly keep them out on shelves and rely on occasional dusting.

      If they're in a dustier-than-typical room or you have compounding factors, like the presence of cats or dogs (like my German Shedder, I meant German Shepherd), and don't want to go the route of traditional fabric-like dust covers, you might consider doing a thicker plastic/acrylic cover which will give you a clear plastic layer of protection, but still show off your machines.

      I live in Los Angeles and there are half a dozen places that do this sort of custom plastic work all the time for very reasonable rates. Searching for "plastic fabricator memorabilia case" along with variations of plastics (acrylic, lucite, plexiglass) should get you what you want locally. (Here's a few examples I've used in Los Angeles before to give you an idea: https://solterplastics.com/, https://www.plasticfactoryinc.com/, https://www.customacrylicproducts.com/, https://plexidisplays.com/). Search for something similar in your area for easier communication and cheaper pick up/shipping.

      If you search around for companies that make plastic displays, particularly for memorabilia (baseball bats, baseball cards, etc.), you can have them design and make a custom sized clear plastic box/enclosure that will keep the dust and dirt out, but still allow you to see the machine inside. If done well it may actually make them appear more precious because you've taken the additional precaution.

      Enclosed glass shelving is also a potential solution as well, but requires a larger investment and also requires more work to rotate machines out for regular use.

      Most of my machines get daily use, so I'm not really using them for display or presentation purposes (except for one machine which sits on our library card catalog, but even then, it is frequently used as a standing desk, for occasional poetry by everyone in the family, or for guests who want to try their hand). I go through lots of index cards, so I'll usually temporarily protect against dust, dirt, and fur by slipping an index card on top of the hood or slightly into it to protect the segment.

      But at the end of the day, as long as you haven't used WD-40 or some other lubricant on your segment and typebars (and what typewriter monster would do such barbaric things?), you should easily be able to go long periods between dustings and still have a highly functional machine. After all, who hasn't bought a machine full of dirt, dust, White Out, and eraser shavings/crumbs that still works like a dream?

      It may bear brief mention for those who display their machines and forget, that you might also disengage the paper lock/paper release lever which will release the tension on your rubber rollers against the platen so that they don't go "flat" or become misshapen when not in use for long periods.


      Expansion of https://hypothes.is/a/NjoVMA1REe-f47d0T4ZOkg

      Reply to u/Styr0foam at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1djgjv2/how_to_display_typewriters_properly/

    1. reply to u/MarkC64 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lyq6o8/smith_premier_model_50_60_help_needed_plz/ on typewriter manuals

      While it's nice to have the exact manual for your typewriter or even something close enough, there isn't a huge amount of variability in typewriter functionality by the time your machine was built, so pick almost any manual you like and you're probably good to go: https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

      Because of the disparity in general knowledge as typewriters became more ubiquitous in society, manuals from the 1930s are going to have lots more detail in them than the manuals from the 1960s.

      If you need more help on general usage and functionality try some of the films at: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/

    1. Not exactly, no. Ro85 and Ro87 (Pica and Elite Cubic) are very close to OP's type sample but the W's have sloped sides and the numerals are different. It's not a copy of Sentorial either, the most apparent differences are the Capital Q and K. I could not find Ro83 in any of my catalogs either, it's a bit weird. I've seen RaRo slugs on Olympias before, it's possible this was something they only did for them. Ro87 Elite-Cubic: https://i.imgur.com/3seKddd.jpeg Olympia Senatorial: https://i.imgur.com/yuTlzQh.jpeg
    1. Reply to u/Charlea1776 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lx86q0/1950_smith_corona_sterling/ on how to mount a typewriter to a typing desk:

      If you're a room or two away, the noise may not be too bad for sleeping children. Typing on a felted wool mat may also be helpful.

      The specially made typing desks made of wood, often had holes drilled into them that allowed one to insert bolts from below that threaded into custom holes in the frame of the typewriter. Generally these only worked with standard machines which were manufactured to be used this way and it's reasonably obvious where the two holes were (usually about midway up the bottom of the frame). When not in use, the top of the desk flips over and hides the typewriter upside down near where one's legs would be positioned. When flipped in typing position, the top of the desk on which the typewriter sits is often lower (25-26" off the floor) than the rest of the desk top (28-29" off the floor).

      I would suspect that your 1950 Sterling, being a portable machine, does not have the requisite mounting holes in the typewriter's chassis for allowing this to happen. Being a portable, these were designed to be put in the case and stowed into a closet or credenza when not in use.

      If you have a later mid-century 20 gauge steel tanker desk, some of those were made with a cabinet section which had a springloaded metal platform which allowed the typewriter to swing up and out of the desk and into position. If this is the type you have, your typewriter might work with this sort of configuration, but these typically didn't have or require mounting hardware like the wooden versions.

    1. Not clean enough. There is only one solution, you take the body panels off and clean it. The keys here need cleaned with a 50/50 mix Simple Green and water. The comb area gets cleaned and blown out with mineral spirits. The basket gets cleaned, carefully, with lacquer thinner. If the insulation is really bad, you take it out and glue in new. I like EVA foam. But I will wash the insulation with SG and water and rinse it in the sink and then let dry and retest if it is in good condition otherwise. Case insides can tolerate some water if you don't like soak it. I use a pet spray, scrub it fast, rinse and get it dried off fast Then out in the sun or a fan blowing on it. Once it is dry, if it still smells, I take a few paper towels, spray Glade air freshener in them, set it in a tin foil pan and into the case. Then out in the sun closed up. That will kill most anything.

      u/jbhusker's cleaning out a typewriter

    1. Very sad to report that Jerry Wallace, my typewriter maintenance and repairman passed away last year. This news is new to me since I lost contact with him when he retired and moved to Northern California. What a loss to the typewriter community. I used to take my typewriters to Jerry to fix and polish up at his Salinas home repair shop.

      https://www.facebook.com/groups/4770669677/?multi_permalinks=10162232824949678

      Reported via Elisabeth Paton.

    1. That's an important question with several answers. Give it to someone as a gift. Give it to someone as a punishment. Store it in a safe place. Send it to a type pal. Give it to recycling. Rub yourself down with (mud? molasses? butter? beer? blood? snow?) and burn it in a bonfire. Throw it in the sea. Throw it in a volcano. Throw it in a hallway. Throw it in a drawer. Take a picture of it and submit it on one typed page. Type over it in another colour. Type over it in the same colour. Eat it. (The last should only be considered for very little amounts. Please use common sense.)

      reply from u/andrebartels1977 to u/Electrical_Raise_345's question: "Hey what should I do with my type writing." at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lru709/hey_what_should_i_do_with_my_type_writing/

    1. I'm totally prejudiced as I work at a local typewriter repair shop in Bremerton, Washington. We also have a space where we sell them. In general if the local shop has a bunch of machines that you can put on a table to try out, that is good. If they don't want you futzing with the typewriters, I'm not sure the value. Do they have a warranty? If not, then stick to the internet and local antique shops and buy as low as you can. At least that way when you need repair you have a cost buffer.
    2. We recommend people come to our shop and type. We charge $5 an hour or you can look into our rental programs. We have a lot of people come in just to hang out and type. No plans on actually owning one, and that's fine with us. Come in, play, leave without the 10-30 pounds of metal with you lol. We also sell and service machine. Prices vary some. But all our machine have a 60 day guarantee from date of purchase. We do ship machines as well if you find something on our website that you like. Assuming you aren't near the Dayton Ohio area.

      u/Dangerous-Ratio6448 is a typewriter repair person at TB Writers Plus

    1. This typewriter was quite grimy, so I removed the shell (fairly challenging) and gave it a bath in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. Mitch Hamm alerted me that such tanks, big enough to dip a portable while keeping its keys out of the water, are now available for a mere $150 or so. Here’s the Royal undergoing what sounds like electroshock therapy, but is really just a micro-agitated bath. Concentrated Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser was added to hot water in a 1:20 ratio.

      https://typewriterrevolution.com/a-green-machine/

      Richard Polt's experience in cleaning a Royal Portable with an ultrasonic cleaning tank with Simple Green in a 1:20 ratio.

    1. We switched to Ultra 3 detergent after using Dawn detergent for years. A quantum leap in effectiveness. When we got the new Ultra 2100 cabinet ultrasonic unit it came with a gallon of detergent. We used it ONE TIME and the parts came out so much cleaner, almost brand new. The detergent is expensive, yet we've never gone back.

      via u/palump at Bremerton Typewriter

      Ultra 3 Detergent: https://shop.ultrasonicllc.com/collections/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions/products/ultra-3-multi-purpose-ultrasonic-detergent

    1. We are often asked what ultrasonic cleaners we use in the shop. We have three. The large cabinet model that holds large typewriters such as Selectrics, a medium sized 12"X20", and a smaller cleaner 10"X12". The medium and smaller ones you can buy on eBay all day. The models change, and the sizes are all similar. The medium sized cleaner is used for small to medium sized typewriters and the small machine is mostly for nuts, screws and other tiny stuff.

      https://www.instagram.com/p/C2u5EkVrnq3/

      via Bremerton Typewriter<br /> - PS-100A Ultrasonic Cleaner<br /> - Ultra 2100 from Ultrasonic, LLC

    1. At our shop we know that we'll age out. Everyone does. To seed the typewriter field we have a 12 week apprentice training program. Hopefully a few get the repair mojo and open up their own shop. Or just become more adept at the hobby. I can only hope once the time comes we have someone willing.

      via u/palump at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1i1ydyz/nobody_in_boston_big_enough_to_fill_these_shoes/m7e497l/

      Bremerton Typewriter has a 12 week apprentice training program as a means of helping to create the next generation of typewriter repair people.

    1. Edward Derbes earned his B.A. in Rhetoric from UC Berkeley last year. He still resides in Berkeley, and can often be found on the front steps of his apartment building reading Kierkegaard and Nelson Algren.

      Fascinating to see that it sounds like a guy who would have his own typewriter possibly writing about a typewriter comeback.

    2. A fascination with vintage typewriters also accounts for the recent rise in sales, said Joe. In particular, people in Japan are buying typewriters built in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. The store will charge $250 to repair a classic Olivetti, but that machine can be resold for $1,000 in Japan, said Joe. “They buy them because they are antique. There’s a big demand because they are part of American history.”

      from 2011