https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbtwshop/posts/24082657108098214/
Some of the historical context on cleaning IBMs here is fascinating.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/gbtwshop/posts/24082657108098214/
Some of the historical context on cleaning IBMs here is fascinating.
I've been using mineral spirits for years with none of the effects you mention. Maybe you are thinking of a different solution?
via Andy Falsetta with respect to using mineral spirits on plastic typewriter keys. <br /> at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214
Mineral spirits with a splash of auto transmission fluid to combat corrosion. This formula was given me by Clark Hinson
Via Tim Stone at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214
Mineral spirits are perfectly safe for key buttons. It's critical to make sure the solvent you're using really IS true mineral spirits, though.Other solvents, such as those billed as "laquer thinner" are NOT safe for plastics. That includes acetone, xylene, and any solvents containing them. I have heard that Selectric III keys are resistat to laquer thinner, but I still wouldn't use it even on a III. Laquer thinner may be applied VERY carefully after the full mineral-spirits bath using a syringe or small squeeze bottle for specific metal pivot points such as interposer pawls that tend to get extra-stuck from dried-out lubricants.
via Rick Becker at https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214
https://www.facebook.com/groups/259796744144251?multi_permalinks=24082657108098214
True mineral spirits won't harm the plastic keys of an IBM Selectric whereas lacquer thinner, paint thinner, etc. will cause issues.
Your alcohol is making the old oil and dust fluid again for a while, but without either fully flushing it out or blowing it out with compressed air, the solvent evaporates and the remaining solid oil/dust freezes things up again.
Rubbing alcohol is probably one of the worst degreasers, but people recommend it because most people often have some in their house already. (Depending on the type, it also contains high proportions of water which isn't the best thing to mix with your metal typewriter.)
To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means (be careful for splattering and cover the plastic and painted portions of the machine and surroundings with a rag). This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out.
2-5 flushes can sometimes be required before you've really gotten all the old gunk out of your machine. I often wait several hours or even overnight to test the action after flushing before I re-attach body panels, etc.
If you can acquire a small plastic oiler (see https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/11/adding-to-my-typewriter-toolset/) it can help to minimize the amounts of solvent you're using and the flexible tip will allow you to not only direct the flow of solvent, but create some fluid pressure when you squeeze the bottle.
(Naturally use your degreaser in a well-ventilated space away from open flames and sparks...)
Reply to https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1qroqbf/halp/
This is a persistent myth. Tolerance has nothing to do with it -- even in high-precision machine tools machined to within a thousandth of an inch, oil is necessary to reduce sliding friction and prevent wear. (In fact, super-flat bearing surfaces will even have deliberate channels cut to allow oil to stick.) Review some old service manuals and you'll find detailed lubrication instructions. This old Remington manual, for example, has a chart at the end specifying four different types of oil for different parts of the mechanism; this Typewriter Repair Training Course describes several methods for lubricating entire machines; and this Army manual suggests basically hosing the machine down with light oil. I suspect many people get the impression that oil is bad because very old oils, before the invention of modern synthetic oils and greases, tend to gum up into a sticky paste as they oxidize and separate over time. (Some pre-WWII greases were based on animal fat, and would go rancid!) Combine that with fifty years of cat hair and dust and the machine seizes up entirely. Modern synthetic light oils and greases should last much longer.
u/capnrefsmmat reply to
u/lodger238 at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1hslx56/huh_i_thought_wd40_was_horrible_as_a_lubricant/<br /> Agree completely and to further the point; typewriters were manufactured with low tolerance in many areas just so they wouldn't need lubricating.
Symptom: Ghosting lines overlaying typed text:
This is assuredly not a type slug cleaning issue and the secret is that the loops in the letters like "a", "e", "o", etc. are clear. The lines are caused by the paper not being held to the platen, so when the slug hits, you're getting ink from the other part of the slug transferring to the paper. The remedy is to tuck the paper underneath the paper bale and rollers.
If one still sees issues after this then check your manual to ensure that the ribbon is properly threaded followed by a check that the ribbon vibrator isn't bent too far away from the typing point and too close to the platen and causing the ribbon to rub against the paper.
Hunting for Typewriter Accessories - YouTube<br /> by [[Just My Typewriter]] - Sarah Everett accessed on 2025-11-01T22:07:29
Estate sales often have interesting office supplies and paper in desks.
2:45 typewriter ribbon tins; made out of tin, cardboard, paper<br /> sometimes tins come with spools or spare parts
5:35 Typewriter ribbon display kits and pieces
6:58 Typewriter case keys<br /> She's collected images of case keys to know what to buy.<br /> She's got a buying guide on her website with photos.
10:04 Typewriter key tops
13:20 typewriter brushes and cleaning products, blower brushes, typeslug cleaners,
15:25 Typing books, user manuals, Typatune,
16:29 Typewriter toys; often in the $25+ range
17:23 Typewriter advertisements<br /> Sarah often purchases these online and uses them in her videos.<br /> Underwood fingernail polish advertisements
19:15 Typewriter playing cards (advertisement)
20:13 Typewriter related postcards
20:45 Typewriter books:<br /> - references; lots online; - Anthony Casillo - Typewriters (coffee books) - Michael Adler: Antique Typewriters - Paul Robert and Peter Weil - Iron Whim by Darren Werschler-Henry - non-fiction, history, - books written by other collectors<br /> - Tom Hanks' Uncommon Type<br /> - Olivetti by Allie Millington
Crescent City Books in New Orleans - has typewriters as decoration
25:03 Typewriter community collectors/creators<br /> - Lucas Dul - The Williams Typewriter (Loose Dog Press) - Loose Dog Press series<br /> - Woz Flint - The Distraction-Free First Draft<br /> - Richard Polt - The Typewriter Revolution (after thought)
28:43: Typewriter Magazines - ETCetera - Novellum Magazine (Writing related)
Courtesy of @Pelicram ❤ : Peli's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight. This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level. The recipe: 70% Light machine oil. 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits. Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying. Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application. Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.,Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.,Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.,Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.
https://discord.com/channels/639936208734126107/639938269030907914/1302694827682697330
Pelicram's Shellac Rescue Formula aka The Cowboy's Delight.
This will help bring back a deeper black color shellaced panels which have been yellowed and damaged by UV over the years. With enough elbow grease it will remove the old shellac completely but it takes a very long time and you're likely to damage any decals present on the panel. In most cases the procedure described below will be sufficient to restore the appearance to an acceptable level.
The recipe: - 70% Light machine oil. - 30% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) or White/Mineral Spirits.
Ideally use an oil that is dissolved into the IPA/Mineral Spirits, if they settle into separate layers make sure you shake the mixture thoroughly before applying.
Mix the oil and solvent in something like a dropper bottle or similar vessel for convenient application.
- Clean part with Fulgentin (Or general purpose cleaner of your choice) and wipe dry.
- Apply oil/ipa mix to part and rub in lightly with clean microfiber cloth or shop towel. Use plenty of the mix, it should not feel dry.
- Wipe with microfiber cloth after 15 minutes to get rid of any excess.
- Do not apply any kind of wax (like Renessaince Wax) afterwards, from my testing it will bring back the haziness.
Cleaning Type Slugs Fast ! Removing Clogged Dirty Ink Typewriter Service How to Shine Those Faces by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
Duane cleans type slugs by draping the typewriter with cloths and then using a metal bristle brush and lacquer thinner. Small picks or an X-Acto knife can help to remove gunk from the interiors of the closed letters.
He also uses tape to cover up the red paint on the word "De Luxe" so that the lacquer thinner doesn't damage it.
He finishes off with a small shot of Nu-trol, which is a degreaser with some lubrication, and then follows up with a shot of compressed air to thin it out.
The slugs are the metal pieces at the ends of the assemblies that start at the tops of the keys and go through the key levers attach to the segment (the semi-circular metal comb-like part in the "basket") via the typebars. The slugs are the ones that have the backward characters on them and when they hit the ribbon cause the letters to be applied to the paper. Over time the small loops of the characters can get filled with dust, dirt, ink, and bits of ribbon and as a result the type on your page isn't as crisp and good looking as you'd like.
Here's a handful of videos with a variety of methods for cleaning one's slugs: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s8tE6P0YMQ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgSAS45WGI0 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKGipBLA5Eo
You'll notice that for the day-to-day cleaning that people are using kneadable erasers, silly putty, or products like Bergeon Rodico 6033-1 as cleaning compounds for pulling ink and dust out quickly.
There are some good basics and a great glossary in Hints for a Happy Typewriter: https://typewriterdatabase.com/1983-Hints4HappyTypewriter.index.manual
I've also collected some great mid-century short films on use and basic maintenance here: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/
Other resources you might find interesting: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/
reply to u/DatLonerGirl at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1o33p7n/when_was_the_last_time_you_cleaned_your_slugs/
reply to u/Alchemic-Web at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mtx90h/got_a_1940s_underwood_whats_best_way_to_clean_it/
Congratulations and welcome to the club.
For some basic typewriter 101 including a short intro to cleaning, try: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJtHauPh529XYHI5QNj5w9PUdi89pOXsS
More cleaning and restoration: - https://boffosocko.com/2024/08/09/on-colloquial-advice-for-degreasing-cleaning-and-oiling-manual-typewriters/ - https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html
For use and maintenance: https://boffosocko.com/2025/06/06/typewriter-use-and-maintenance-for-beginning-to-intermediate-typists/
Additional resources: https://boffosocko.com/research/typewriter-collection/
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mp43lf/a_sticky_shift_issue_olympia_sm9/
Over time, dust and oil can clog up in the bearing and along the track that the segment glides up and down on causing this sort of issue. You can flush it out with mineral spirits (or something similar) while you actuate the shift key to remedy the issue. When you're done, then add back a drop of light (sewing) machine oil.
While you're at it, most basket shift machines load them with large springs to assist with the weight and to help the return. They're typically attached to metal brackets that can be easily formed with pliers to either increase or decrease the force as necessary to suit your touch and preferred response. (YouTube videos may help here if necessary.)
If that doesn't remedy it, then take the hood off and look closely at the mechanism to see if something is physically impeding it.
reply to u/MirageAnne at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1mgmwkq/remington_rand_17/
There are two general types of "sticky keys": 1. sticky going up 2. sticky coming down
For stickiness slowing down the typebar (on the way up or down), it's likely that you've got oil, dirt, dust, or other sludge in the segment of your machine. You'll want to flush out your segment with some solvent and potentially blow things out with compressed air to remove the source of the friction.
While you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!
It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.
When you're done, it's common wisdom that one should NOT oil the segment.
If your typebar(s) are sticking due to friction at the typing point, then they need some gentle forming to the right or the left to prevent them from rubbing on the typing point so that they can fall back down to the type rest. The two videos below will help describe and demonstrate the symptoms as well as the repair. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrlt6VyC8D0&t=485s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Arspyq1w4Iw
It's much less common, but once everything is clean and properly aligned, if you're still seeing sluggishness, it may be the case that the spring on the individual key has broken or become disconnected which prevents it from returning back to the type rest.
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lu9173/turns_out_mineral_spirits_are_illegal_in/
Traditional mineral spirits are illegal in some states in the US including California. As an alternative odorless mineral spirits are low VOC, safer, and a solid alternative. Typewriter shops like Typewriter Justice in Keller, TX recommend it. Some who have access to cheaper mineral spirits still prefer the odorless version for the reduced residual smell.
Nashville Typewriter, another shop, recommends camping fuel (aka white gas) which is mostly naphtha. Zippo lighter fluid is primarily naphtha, but is much more expensive. In Germany, it goes under the names of Testbenzin or Reinigungsbenzin.
Jennifer Colombo, a repair person of Colombo Collection suggests linseed oil to clean and protect metal surfaces and create a barrier against rust and oxidation.
The Molle! Disassembling, Cleaning, and Aligning a Rare 106 Year Old Molle No. 3 Typewriter by [[Dynamically Typed]]
Rust removal and polishing of some of the brights on a Molle typewriter.
Molle only lasted for a few years as a brand in the early 1900s, but as a typewriter repairman, he was interested in easy access for repair for the mechanic in the overall typewriter design.
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1lyef05/slug_work/
James Grooms use a brass wheel brush on his Dremel tool for cleaning his typeslugs.
Not clean enough. There is only one solution, you take the body panels off and clean it. The keys here need cleaned with a 50/50 mix Simple Green and water. The comb area gets cleaned and blown out with mineral spirits. The basket gets cleaned, carefully, with lacquer thinner. If the insulation is really bad, you take it out and glue in new. I like EVA foam. But I will wash the insulation with SG and water and rinse it in the sink and then let dry and retest if it is in good condition otherwise. Case insides can tolerate some water if you don't like soak it. I use a pet spray, scrub it fast, rinse and get it dried off fast Then out in the sun or a fan blowing on it. Once it is dry, if it still smells, I take a few paper towels, spray Glade air freshener in them, set it in a tin foil pan and into the case. Then out in the sun closed up. That will kill most anything.
u/jbhusker's cleaning out a typewriter
Trying an ULTRASONIC cleaner...? (EPIC FAIL) by [[Just My Typewriter]]
Sarah uses a very small and inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner for some small typewriter parts. Probably not the way to go. A bigger cleaner and better detergent is probably the way to go.
We use three ultrasonic cleaners in the shop. The two smaller ones we bought on eBay. One is small for screws, springs and such. The slightly larger one is for small to medium size machines, carriages and other long stuff. The large cleaner is a commercial item used mostly for Selectrics.
Bremerton Typewriter uses three different ultrasonic cleaners in their shop.
via u/palump at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ad9hge/ultrasonic_cleaner_for_mid_size_portable/kk0npc2/
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1ad9hge/ultrasonic_cleaner_for_mid_size_portable/
This typewriter was quite grimy, so I removed the shell (fairly challenging) and gave it a bath in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. Mitch Hamm alerted me that such tanks, big enough to dip a portable while keeping its keys out of the water, are now available for a mere $150 or so. Here’s the Royal undergoing what sounds like electroshock therapy, but is really just a micro-agitated bath. Concentrated Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser was added to hot water in a 1:20 ratio.
https://typewriterrevolution.com/a-green-machine/
Richard Polt's experience in cleaning a Royal Portable with an ultrasonic cleaning tank with Simple Green in a 1:20 ratio.
Yep, some times hard to tell from the listings. Look for the inside dimensions of the unit. We have a three gallon (screws and small bits), 13 gallon (carriages and dunking half a typewriter) and a gargantuan gallon for Selectric machines.
via u/palump at Bremerton Typewriter https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jzels9/ultrasonic_cleaner_for_parts/
We switched to Ultra 3 detergent after using Dawn detergent for years. A quantum leap in effectiveness. When we got the new Ultra 2100 cabinet ultrasonic unit it came with a gallon of detergent. We used it ONE TIME and the parts came out so much cleaner, almost brand new. The detergent is expensive, yet we've never gone back.
via u/palump at Bremerton Typewriter
Ultra 3 Detergent: https://shop.ultrasonicllc.com/collections/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions/products/ultra-3-multi-purpose-ultrasonic-detergent
We are often asked what ultrasonic cleaners we use in the shop. We have three. The large cabinet model that holds large typewriters such as Selectrics, a medium sized 12"X20", and a smaller cleaner 10"X12". The medium and smaller ones you can buy on eBay all day. The models change, and the sizes are all similar. The medium sized cleaner is used for small to medium sized typewriters and the small machine is mostly for nuts, screws and other tiny stuff.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C2u5EkVrnq3/
via Bremerton Typewriter<br /> - PS-100A Ultrasonic Cleaner<br /> - Ultra 2100 from Ultrasonic, LLC
Try a toothbrush with a long, thin handle and a small head.
The brushes sold with many metal and rubber straws or thin bottle brushes are also excellent for reaching into places like this. Sometimes you can find similar thin brushes in the baby bottle section of big box retailers or specialty stores doing baby goods.
Similarly a plastic oiler with mineral spirits in combination with an air compressor/blow gun or canned air is also a solid way to go.
Long handle cotton swabs can also be used if necessary.
reply to u/General-Writing-1764 at https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1l05a17/i_dont_think_that_superficial_dust_should_be_a/
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1kvhyol/anybody_else_used_these/
NOS Scotch Typewriter Cleaner No. 575
i 2:15 didn't know if it was broken because it 2:17 needed cleaned
curious, but common phrase "needed cleaned"...
Appalachian dialect?
reply to u/Omega48boar at https://reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1knsgn8/pressure/
I was wondering what the upper limit psi would be for blowing out the gunk using an air compressor.
The highest air compressor pressures may be determined by your particular compressor's (or air canister's) maximum output as well as the maximum suggested output for any accessories you're attaching to it. Many basic air gun attachments have a max PSI of around 100 PSI even when the compressor will produce much higher outputs.
Generally I find that for most benchwork on typewriters anywhere from 50-100 PSI is generally more than sufficient.
Depending on the condition of your surroundings, I recommend putting a towel (or similar material) underneath your typewriter with a solid backstop so that if any springs, screws, or other valuable parts are blown loose, they're caught pretty quickly by the towel rather than flying across the room or down onto the floor out of sight.
Higher pressure settings may be useful in some cases. One should always take care to be wearing protective garments and eyewear to prevent being spattered with caustic chemicals. Similarly protecting plastics, paint, and decals on your typewriter with appropriate cover is advised with some solvents.
Operating the compressor, which can cause sparks as well as heat, at a reasonable distance from potential flammable vapors is also a mandatory safety precaution. Using volatile solvents frequently seen in typewriter cleaning procedures should only be done in the open in a well-ventilated area using appropriate masks to prevent inhalation of vapors. Long term exposure to vapors of substances like lacquer thinner can cause lung damage, COPD, and other adverse health effects.
For extended usage pending the sorts of air gun tips which might be used for typewriter cleaning, one is also well advised to use ear protection to prevent long term hearing damage/loss.
Everyone mentioned most of the usual tricks, but one.
To get your sticky typewriter keys working again, while you're flushing out the segment with your solvent of choice (lacquer thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, alcohol, etc.), actually move the typebars using the keys or by other means. This will help to get them moving and allow the solvent and subsequently compressed air to help flush the oil, dust, hair, etc. out of your machine. You've already got a mechanical cleaning device of sorts (the typebar itself) inside the segment, so move it while you're flushing it out!
It may take a few repeated treatments/attempts to get it all clear for all the keys, but it's far easier than taking everything apart.
reply to u/nogaesallowed at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1cp75ln/how_do_you_clean_a_1mm_gap/
People were recommending all sorts of ideas and solvents here, including folded card stock, tooth brushes, floss, toothpicks, interdental brushes, wood cuticle sticks, Swiss Army knife tweezers, microbrushes, and even an ultrasonic cleaner.
Oxidized Metal on Typewriters, White Powder Substance Removed Cleaned by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
Royal Futura 800 Typewriter Plastic Key Top White Crud Removal Cleaning Servicing by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
For the white, crusty out gassing (or off gassing) on plastic typewriter keys, Duane recommends a round or two of Simple Green with a stiff bristle brush. Follow this up with a scrub down using WD-40 to displace the water from the Simple Green and then follow up with denatured alcohol, which is safe on plastics, and a wipe down with a rag to dry.
Typewriter expert shares 8 helpful advice to take care of your typewriter. by [[Mr. & Mrs. Vintage Typewriters]]
Tipp-Ex correction paper
Don't bathe your typewriter
Leave oil to the professionals. "Never oil it." (Wow!) - I get why he says this, but...
In the US, you can get one hundred 4" mascara brushes for around $5. Eye Tees (cottton swabs with a firm point on one end and a flat tip on the other) cost roughly the same. You'll find them at most beauty supply stores or online. These get into tight spaces. Dipped in mineral spirits (or whichever solvent you've come to like), the brush gets the stuff loose and the Tee wipes it away. Blasting air helps as well. Works for me. Others will have other ideas.
via u/scmowner
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1jyr2hc/the_best_way_to_get_rid_of_all_this_gunk/
Colloquial advice to use 4" mascara brushes as a replacement for a segment pick for cleaning out typewriters.
Old school repair guys used a lot of different stuff that's no longer available due to being... Not good. Ha. But naphta was one that's still widely available as white gas aka "coleman/camping fuel" Essentially naphtha with stabilizers to keep it from going bad. Mineral spirits works as well, but naphtha leaves less residue in my experience. Lacquer thinner is good for especially stubborn crap and cleaning slugs, but evaporates really fast and the fumes are no bueno. Alternatively; non toxic degreasing cleaners like simple green are usually my preferred method of cleaning up especially gross machines. Typically very safe on paint finishes and internals, just make sure to keep it off the decals. (It can and WILL erase them if it sits for more than 10 secs) Really though, nothing beats air and a long handled "paint" brush. My air compressor and blow out tube are some of my most cherished tools.
quote from Nashville Typewriter
Cleaning with Air Compressors (testing portable air compressors) by [[Just My Typewriter]]
Sarah Everett uses: - Porter Cable portable air compressor (loud, high powered) - Uses smaller USB chargeable one for smaller jobs: PeroBuno mini car vacuum and compressor with attachments
Sarah Everett recommends the Vogma air duster / air compressor for cleaning out her typewriters. https://amzn.to/3FjqZ76
How to Clean a Typewriter (Apartment Friendly Guide!) by [[Just My Typewriter]]
Cleaning Typewriter Type Slugs by [[Joe Van Cleave]]
JVC recommends 91% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for cleaning typeslugs.
Brass bristle brushes from Harbor Freight.
Sally's Beauty Supply stiff nylon brush for cleaning typeslugs.
Bergeon Rodico 6033-1 as a cleaning compound (similar to Silly Putty and other older compounds) for typeslugs.
He is sure they can be working again after a paraffin bath to clean up accumulated gunge and some careful plier work to straighten bent keys.
Alan Thorpe cleans his Perkins Braillers in a paraffin bath.
Drycleaning & Restoration
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It's the story of convenience seen everywhere. Could you clean your machine with household items like isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip? Sure. Are mineral spirits better solvents in combination with compressed air for doing this? Definitely.
People will tend toward the least common denominator for doing what is cheapest and easiest for their time, location, expediency, availability of materials, level of knowledge, and experience.
The trade off may be long term life of the typewriter with respect to risk of rust, corrosion, or other potential issues.
It only means, your caps lock key is a tiny bit sticky. If you want to, give a drop of barbecue igniting fluid to the hinge. This will flush the grime out.
https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1grn0jx/just_found_an_unmentioned_feature_on_my_sg3/
Suggestion to use "barbecue igniting fluid"! 🤣
waking up growing up showing up waking up you know cleaning up and I always like to add [ __ ] up
for - quote - waking up - growing up - showing up - cleaning up - f-ing up - John Churchill
Do not "dunk wash" your machine. Though some may debate, it is our opinion that this actually does more harm than good. Rusted parts will flash-rust, grime cannot be removed without violent agitation and no matter how thorough you are, you will never get all the water out.
Mineral spirits are still the best for cleaning non-painted metal parts. Magic in a bottle, this is! Be careful to avoid getting it on painted surfaces, rubber, and/or plastic bits.
Zippo Lighter Fluid (Naphtha)
While Zippo lighter fluid (Naphtha) is a bit more expensive per ounce than other solvents (mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, et al), it does usually come packaged in a dispensing container that may make it easier to dispense in a directed method into the internals of typewriters for cleaning them out.
The other benefit is that some may have it on hand for general household use without needing to make a separate trip to the hardware store.
via, but not really directly suggested by https://old.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1g9ntnj/lubricant_reccomendations/
Cylinders and feed rollers may be cleaned,and the rubber rejuvenated, by wiping themwith denatured alcohol. Just do this whennecessary, as too much alcohol counteractsits own good effects.
Beforegivingamachineabathingasolinewithsomemachineoiladded,removerubberfeet,ribbon, andifpossible,thecarriage.
Cakedinkmayberemovedwithtypeputty,alcohol,carbontetrachloride,oroneoftheproprietarydry-cleaningfluids,appliedwithabrush.Pressthetypeputtyontothetype,peelitoff,andthecakedinkcomeswithit.Ifyouusealiquid,firstliftthetypeandputpaperunderitto prevent dirt from dripping into the machine. When using type-cleaning fluid, be sure toWipe the type dry with a cloth before using the place paper under type to prevent dirt frommachine again.
dry cleaning solvents in 1941 were likely Varsol or Stoddard's Formula.
compare to trichloroethane<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/EyBIAFXAEe-AcP-Atlj_aQ
Note discontinuation of carbon tetrachloride<br /> https://hypothes.is/a/bfdi_I90Ee-OQLN0HpsE7Q
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_tetrachloride
Carbon tetrachloride or carbon tet is a non-flammable, dense, colorless liquid which was often used as a cleaning agent in the mid 1900s, but was phased out due to safety and environmental concerns. High exposure can affect the central nervous system and cause damage to the liver and kidneys. Prolonged exposure can be fatal.
Royal Quiet DeLuxe Typewriter Complete Total Body Removal by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]
Gerren uses a Weaver gunsmith screwdriver set for most of his screwdriver needs. [5:00]
On the newer QDLs two of the screws for removing the rear plate are accessible from the top underneath the carriage instead of all on the rear.
The screws for the front body plate can be loosened and don't need to be fully removed to take the body plate off of the machine.
quietly cleaning a quiet deluxe by [[Just My Typewriter]]
Cleaning the case, exterior and some of interior of a Royal Quiet De Luxe typewriter. She does a somewhat minimal job here.
She could have disassembled a bit more and done a better job with a toothbrush and mineral spirits on the inside.
Not a horrible recommendation for a beginner, but could have gone further and been a bit more comprehensive.
https://www.amsterdamtypewriter.com/en-us/products/typewriter-care-kit-diy
Amsterdam Typewriter's kit contains all the following essentials:<br /> * Brass wire brush (for cleaning the typeface) * Natural bristled brush (general cleaning purposes) * Microfiber cotton cloth (for polishing, gentle to paint) * New ribbon (black, red or black or purple color) * 3 compact cotton tissues (disposable, soak in cleaner or mild soap solution to clean typewriter) * Alcohol spray for cleaning (removes ink, oxidation, stains, surface rust) * Deodorizing spray (for disinfection and removing odor from cases and felt lining) * 10 Special cotton buds with long reach (do not leave cotton strings behind) * Our miracle polishing paste (wonderfully revives paint, also polishes on metal, paint, glass, fiberglass, plastic) * Leather rolling pouch for carrying * Comfy cotton bag for storage * Checklist for cleaning * Copy of manual with tips on cleaning of your typewriter and detailed steps
#401B Nu-trol Control Cleaner for Electronics, a specialty cleaner
Nu-trol is a a degreaser/cleaner which also has a bit of oil in it as well for cleaning and oiling the rails, mainspring, and friction points of a typewriter. Follow up with compressed air to knock off the excess.
The Royal Ten (and later standard typewriters in the line) have a mechanism such that when the carriage is advanced it causes the ribbon to advance simultaneously. Sometimes this mechanism can be gummed up with oil causing issues with ribbon advance. Hitting it with lacquer thinner and/or Nu-trol can free this up.
Royal 10 Manual Typewriter Carriage Flush and Lube, Basic Procedure by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
[[Stephanie Booth]] on keeping things tidier around the house. from the perspective of seeing space as something that serves me. Reframes cleaning not as reactive but as pro-active in aiding my future self. I once, mid 90s, wrote a column on cleaning/decluttering as a personal battle against entropy, reducing entropy and thus postpone the heat death of the universe. Heck, the very def of life is decreasing entropy around itself, as per James Lovelock in Novacene (2019).
delivery-dan 2 points3 points4 points 6 hours ago (1 child)Mineral spirits with just a touch of transmission fluid. Used to own typewriter repair shop large parts washer with mineral spirits with transfluid strip off case and submerged in fluid ti clean then air blower to dry and reassemble. Wd 40 marvel mystery oil will only be temp fit and become worse over time.
Some advice on cleaning typewriters from someone who previously had a typewriter shop.
Recommendation: mineral spirits with a touch of transmission fluid.
Typewriter Clear Plastic Card Guide Holder Clean Polish White Out Dirt Restore by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
For cleaning white out off of the clear plastic on card guides try the following: - scrape with fingernail<br /> - Simple Green - Marvel Mystery Oil (from automotive shops) followed by lacquer thinner in miniscule amounts (one drop). The oil helps protect the plastic from melting from the lacquer thinner. Rinse and repeat.
Others have indicated that floor wax stripper will remove white out without damaging the plastic of the card guides.
Fossilized Masking Tape Removed Cleaned from Typewriter Body by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
The paint on the metal of the SMC 6 series typewriters will generally stand up well to lacquer thinner and along with scratching can be used to remove the old residual masking tape often found on these typewriters.
WD-40, gun bore cleaner, and Simple Green generally don't do much to this sort of tape residue.
The case FOR WD-40 use in typewriters by [[Thom Cholowski]] in Antique Typewriter Maintenance Group
Some thorough colloquial and unreferenced, but reasonably scientific advice about the use of WD-40 to clean typewriters, particularly with respect to water displacement.
Once used for cleaning typewriter internals, WD-40 needs to be flushed out with kerosene or naphtha.
Royal KH Vintage Antique Typewriter Cleaning Wash Glossy Black Enamel Paint Tobacco removal by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
This is a fantastic advertisement for why one shouldn't smoke. The brown is just the part that settled on the typewriter and is just a tiny fraction of what entered the typist's body.
Revisiting my first typewriter restoration... by [[Just My Typewriter]]
Interesting to see someone with some broader experience looking back at what they'd done before and describing how they'd do it now.
Underwood Typewriter Black Matte Paint Wash & Shine Process Clean Restore Luster No Decal Damage by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
How Duane cleans black matte paint and crinkle finished typewriters: Simple Green and a stiff brush, dry, then finish off by brushing in oil or WD-40 and wiping down.
I've thought about Silly Putty for cleaning type before, but Sarah recommends using it as well.
Lube-All Oiler LA124 Triple Pack, 1 oz, 2 oz and 4 oz Bottles with Flexible Spout and In Cap Shut-off Valve<br /> https://crawfordtool.com/products/lube-all-oiler-la124-triple-pack-1-oz-2-oz-and-4-oz-bottles-with-flexible-spout-and-in-cap-shut-off-valve?variant=42824191901937
Bottles that could be useful for dispensing either oil or lacquer thinner/mineral spirits.
DIY Restoring Yellowed Plastic Featuring Royal Mercury Typewriter
Yellowed plastics can be treated with sunshine (or other UV light for several days) and hydrogen peroxide (3%) to repair the yellowing.
Typewriter Platen Cleaning How to Clean Feed and Bail Rollers Rejuvenate Remove Ink by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
Duane is obviously a fan of lacquer thinner for cleaning platens and feed rollers.
Olympia SM Typewriter Wash, Scrub Clean Lid Cover, Restore Paint by [[Phoenix Typewriter]]
Simple Green gets off most dirt and nicotine as well as some White Out. Duane uses Nu-Trol Control Cleaner (for electronics) as a mild specialty cleaner for tougher White Out cleaning.
COMPLETE Olympia SM1/2/3/4/5/7 Typewriter Build/Service/Tune up Series- Part 1 by [[The HotRod Typewriter Co.]]
It can be useful to take some mineral spirits, naphtha, or paint thinner and a tooth brush (or, even better, a brass bristle brush) to your typeface every now and then to clean the ink, dirt, paper, bits of ribbon, dust, etc. out of it. Doing it after changing ribbon is always a good idea. If you're really hard pressed, nail polish remover (acetone) or rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball along with a small pin tip for the loops of letters like 'a', 'o', 'p', 'g', etc. can be used.
How well (or not) your typewriter works from a print perspective can also change with the type of paper you're using, what your ribbon is made out of (usually nylon, silk, or cotton), how much ink it's got in it and how old/worn it may be. A good backing sheet behind your typing paper can also be helpful.
reply to u/kirrachristine at https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/1dtuksy/one_letter_weirdly_thicksmudged/ RE: one letter weirdly thick/smudged
Smith-Corona 5-Series Touch Adjustment by [[Joe Van Cleave]]
To be more specific on solvents for beginners, potentially try mineral spirits (white spirit in UK), paint thinner, naphtha (lighter fluid), kerosene, varnish remover, PB B'laster, or carburetor or brake cleaner. Be careful as many of these are flammable and some can remove paint or decals; use all of them in a well ventilated area. You may see some recommend household variations of alcohol, but these do contain water and generally aren't very effective solvents for the types of oil/grease/dust you'll probably want to remove; professional typewriter repair shops would not use alcohol on a machine. And for those in the back, no one but a psychopath would use WD-40 on a machine's internals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjumGF9NFE8 is a pretty solid cleaning primer. Searching YouTube will uncover some potential additional advice in addition to what you can find at https://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-restoration.html
Good luck. That's a lovely machine!
https://www.reddit.com/r/typewriters/comments/21zpri/what_you_should_know_before_cleaning_your/
Note the stated 33 year experience as typewriter repairman
You will notice that manual was printed in 1920. Gas was the only cleaner available then. In just one more year in 1921 Stoddards Formula was invented (Varsol) for the dry cleaning business. Everything changed then and Varsol was the cleaner of choice.
should find a better reference
Typewriter 101: THE CLEANING GUIDE! by [[Just My Typewriter]]
A solid primer for cleaning typewriters
it is not mold; it is plasticizers coming out of the plastic. I remove it with various means: alcohol, polishing with a very fine polish, Goo Gone™, naptha, and such.
The white gunky substances seen on the plastic keys of old, unmaintained typewriters generally isn't mold, but plasticizers coming out of the plastic. These can usually be cleaned off using simple household cleaning products or if necessary heavier cleaners (Goo Gone, alcohol, naptha, etc. - test these on hidden parts first to ensure they don't react with or destroy the plastic or remove the paint of the key letters) followed up by light waxes or polishes and buffing.
Speaking of the keys, they had crap all around them. I used a slightly damp towel and Turtle wax rubbing compound. A light rubbing removed the dirt.
Wiping dirty plastic typewriter keys with a soft cloth and then waxing/buffing them can bring them back to life.
Here it’s outside being cleaned with Mineral Spirits, and carb and choke cleaner. I took one trip to the eye doctor when the carb and choke cleaner bounced and sprayed into both my eyes. I was fine, but wear eye protection.
The feed rollers and platen were also a mess. I cleaned them with Bar Keepers Friend and water. Soft scrub also works.
Cleans them but probably doesn't repair them.
[73] The Regis Philbin Show 12Mar1982 Guests actress Karen Valentine Pam Young and Peggy Jones talk about Spring cleaning.
https://ctva.biz/US/TalkShow/RegisPhilbin_1981-82.htm
According to @Young1982, they had previously appeared with Regis Philbin on AM Los Angeles (TV show).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbGUVjOF2uw
He still seems iffy about the value of using WD-40 on crinkle cut finish, primarily because of the smell.
Others use brass bristle brushes for applying the WD-40 instead of nylon brushes.
Hermes Rocket Typewriter Case Cleaning — Crazy Results, Simple Tools
A few hours with some mild soap and water and a toothbrush will clean up most of a plastic typewriter case.
A mild solvent like isopropyl alcohol can generally get the remainder of any tough spots or gummy spills.
WD-40 for Crinkle Finish Typewriters — Does it work??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1t6QtARyI
WD-40, which has paraffin wax as an ingredient, can be brushed onto the crinkle finish of a typewriter to clean it up and give it some shine. Use a rag to wipe off excess and take care not to get any in the segment comb. The difference on a generally clean typewriter appears to be negligible and primarily results in a WD-40 smell.
Would something like Armor All work better? Car wax might also work as well. Powder coating polish could work, but it may act as a gentle abrasive as it is also meant to lift stains.
Typewriter Cleaning and Repair Basics #2 Type Bars, Case, and Crinkle Finish
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82O_iUAI5og
Segment comb cleaning - isopropyl alcohol (gentler solvent) - odorless mineral spirits - Lacquer thinner (maybe a bit too aggressive) - naphtha (lighter fluid) take care for flammability and ventilation
Work solvent into bearing between type bar and segment comb. To dry things out one can used compressed air when done or just air dry.
If sticking keys not due to being gummed up, bend portions slightly for better alighment.
Do not lubricate the segment comb.
Only lubricate the carriage rails when necessary.
Exterior cleaning
Brass bristle or nylon bristle brushes (toothbrushes) can be used to clean the exterior of the typewriter and/or cases with mild detergents or other solvents. Depending on the finish, try the brush and solvent on a small portion to determine colorfastness and potential scratching first.
Typewriter Cleaning and Repair Basics #1 Assessment and Testing
Recommends against any lubrication on the key mechanism, just keep it clean. Lubrication in some cases may actually gum up the works and cause the keys to return slowly.
He suggests Krud Kutter as a cleaner/degreaser.
Rubbing alcohol or WD-40 for cleaning out light rust, oil, dirt and grime.
Use Rem-Oil for oiling typewriters
Toothpaste and toothbrush is great for cleaning crinkle paint on typewriters.
80% of data analysis is spent on the process of cleaning and preparing the data
Imagine having unnecessary and wrong data in your document, you would most likely have to experience the concept of time demarcation -- the reluctance in going through every single row and column to eliminate these "garbage data". Clearly, owning all kinds of data without organizing them feels like stuffing your closet with clothes that you should have donated 5 years ago. It is a time-consuming and soul-destroying process for us. Luckily, in R, we have something in R called "tidyverse" package, which I believe the author talks about in the next paragraph, to make life easier for everyone. I personally use dplyr and ggplot2 when I deal with data cleaning, and they are extremely helpful. WIthout these packages' existence, I have no idea when I will be able to reach the final step of data visualization.
ReconfigBehSci on Twitter: ‘@Professologue @sciam well it also gives references to documented cases. Why do you think uncertainty means we should not clean? And how is this different from debate (until very recently) about “airborne” nature, in your view?’ / Twitter. (n.d.). Retrieved 15 July 2021, from https://twitter.com/SciBeh/status/1415357732446633984
There is a tendency to hold unrealistic expectations regarding “spiritual”leaders and teachers, and likewise for what spiritual practice might eventually do for ourselves. One is that mindfulness and Insightcan somehow magically transcend the causes and conditions that shaped ourlives and personalities. To paraphrase the Buddha, what arises in dependence on causes and conditions onlyceases dueto causes and conditions! Meditation and dharma practice create the specific causes and conditions for certain things to arise and others to pass away–but not everythingwe might wish for. Ihave discovereddeeply embeddedautomatic patterns of respondingin fundamentally unhealthy waysto certain situations. Theseautomatic response patterns are the productof an extreme emotionally, psychologically, and physically traumatic childhood, compounded by coping methods I developed in the decade or so after leaving home at 15. From being a homeless adolescent living on the streets, never attending much less graduating high school, I obtained a PhD andhaveled a successful and rewarding professional and spiritual life. However, those conditioned response patterns and coping strategies that had served me well in a life with such difficult beginningswere ultimately disastrous –in my interactions with my wife,then whenconfronted bythe Board of Dharma Treasure. Within themlies the root of much of my unskillfulness.The personal work and therapy I’m doing now continues to clarify these. Becoming aware of them has allowed me to make progress in overcoming them.What I realized through working with my therapist and a life coach was that, for all my life,I’ve had almost no ability to establish and maintain clearpersonal boundariesin interpersonal interactions. If someone was upset, angry, hurt, disappointed, afraidorwhatever, I tendedtotakepersonal responsibilityfor their mental state. Regardless of the cause, or whether or not I hadanything to do with their being upset.Or even the reasonableness or unreasonableness of their reactions!Iwouldbecome inappropriately over-committed to relieving their distress, and likewise inappropriately over-committed in every other part of my life as well. I havealsobeenextremelyconflictavoidant.When confronted with angerand/or aggression,I woulddo almost anything to placate. Itendedto avoid conflict by beingexcessively compliant, acquiescingtoo quickly, andengaginginvariousconflict avoidance strategies.I too readily acceptedtheviews ofothers,or triedto find waysto side-step issues of conflict, to relieve another’s pain and anger whiledisregarding the cost to myself or future consequences. If attempts to placate failed, and full-blown conflict seemedinevitable, I wouldoften disengage, withdraw, surrender, and even take a beating if necessary.
+10
Anthes, E. (2021, April 8). Has the Era of Overzealous Cleaning Finally Come to an End? The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/08/health/coronavirus-hygiene-cleaning-surfaces.html
5 Step Guide to Checking Ventilation Rates in Classrooms. (n.d.). Schools For Health. Retrieved September 9, 2020, from https://schools.forhealth.org/ventilation-guide/
Can you try to delete node_modules folder and package-lock.json file.
Top 5 reasons why you should hire a professional cleaning service https://bit.ly/3f5DO2q
Athens Digital Lab is seeking digital ideas that change the city and invites individuals, groups and new technology enthusiasts to submit their proposals addressing the real needs of the city that can evolve into advanced Internet of Things (IoT) solutions for smart cities. Proposals are requested to cover the following themes: Cleaning, Parking, Green Management, Public Space Management, Vehicle Fleet Management, Open Theme.
The New Yorker’s Sasha Frere-Jones called Twitter a “self-cleaning oven,” suggesting that false information could be flagged and self-corrected almost immediately. We no longer had to wait 24 hours for a newspaper to issue a correction.
We deleted non-directed tweets, but itshould be acknowledged that non-directed tweets may also bear implications for knowledgesharing and can be examined in future studies. The data cleaning procedure also excludedretweets and tweets that serve as quoting.
This is a detailed description of their data cleaning methodology. It is good to know to help understand the results of this research study, but is also helpful for me to understand how to clean such large data sets.